LED Swap (Guages / HVAC) - Page 3 - Scionlife.com

Go Back  Scionlife.com > Tech and DIY > tC Tech and DIY
Reload this Page >

LED Swap (Guages / HVAC)

Notices
tC Tech and DIY Info for the Scion tC

LED Swap (Guages / HVAC)

Old 02-20-2005, 07:31 PM
  #41  
Member
5 Year Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 37
Default

didn't somebody post on here about some little sleeves you could put over the LEDs to change the color? easier than soldering =p
ninjaKid is offline  
Old 02-21-2005, 03:28 AM
  #42  
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member

SL Member
Team N.V.S.
 
hotbox05's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Sacramento, CA / Nor*Cal
Posts: 13,702
Default

Originally Posted by ninjaKid
didn't somebody post on here about some little sleeves you could put over the LEDs to change the color? easier than soldering =p
They don't work
hotbox05 is offline  
Old 02-23-2005, 08:01 PM
  #43  
Senior Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Germantown, MD
Posts: 2,004
Default

Originally Posted by hohlecow
hey guys, first of all, thanks for the great write up and discussion. i think this looks really hot.

i'm planning on getting the tC with the blue illumination kit, and would love to replace the console and gauge cluster LEDs with blue ones as well, but how does this affect warranty?

some more questions:
- is there a way I can get replacement gauge clusters to mod before having to rip out the stock ones?
Go to a salvage yard, they'll be a lot cheaper than from a dealer.
- why aren't blue LEDs standard with the blue illumination kit?
Kinda messed up ain't it?
- is there any equivalent aftermarket parts that will do this?
Not yet.
- what color is the stereo illumination, and how hard would that be to mod as well?
Amber, unless you get the 6-disc (it's changable). I'm going to attempt the Stereo at a later date.
- for the guys who have done this, how hard would you say it is on a scale of 1 to 10 (1 - changing a lightblub, 10 - rewiring your house).
If you're experienced with soldering, then I rate it a 2 or 3, taking the console apart was harder for me.

i have no problem soldering or de-soldering, but i'd rather have this done professionally if possible.
jmiller20874 is offline  
Old 04-08-2005, 09:29 PM
  #44  
Senior Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
TCgetonmylevel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Fort Walton Beach, FL
Posts: 528
Default

Where can I pick up a new clear lense piece that covers the gauge cluster... mine um, yeah needs to be replaced for some reasons I will leave disclosed...
TCgetonmylevel is offline  
Old 04-10-2005, 05:20 PM
  #45  
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
Scikotics
SL Member

 
engifineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 9,728
Default

Very nice info. One thing I would reccomend though. When removing the LCD, keep your finger on the front, and remove the board from the back.. essentially removing the PCB from the LCD instead of the other way around... this will prevent cracking the LCD by prying on it.
engifineer is offline  
Old 04-10-2005, 05:28 PM
  #46  
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
Scikotics
SL Member

 
engifineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 9,728
Default

Originally Posted by wgeee7478
endless... is correct. The ultimate goal here is to make sure that there is enough voltage going through the circuit to power the white LED's. If the circuit is truly in parallel, I would try replacing the LED that get's no voltage with another one. The LED's are not exactly like resistors per say, but because they do have a typical 0.7V drop you can safely say they do have some internal resistance. Just try to remember LED's this way. All in all, the multimeter tells no lies. If the voltage coming out of the contact points for each LED doesn't meet the req. for a white LED, then you will have to devise another way of lighting up the back with white color.
Yes, an LED( like any pn junction) has a constant foward voltage drop. So if the LED is rated 3.2V, which I believe these are, they will always drop 3.2V... the rest of the circuit drops the remaining voltage , hence the load resistor in series with the LED. So no matter what size the resistor (untill you reach damaging current levels through the LED, or before you reach the supply voltage needed to power the LED) you will drop the 3.2V across the LED and the rest across the resistor and wiring/PCB trace. The resistor sizing determines the forward current through the circuit... so the current through the circuit is calculated by (Supply Voltage - LED forward voltage)/Load Resistor Value. Hope this helps..... I know it started getting long winded
engifineer is offline  
Old 04-27-2005, 03:33 PM
  #47  
Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Richmond, KY
Posts: 45
Default

Just ordered the LED's for this, 400 MCD should be bright. One thing I didnt notice was that the center consloe is dimmer than the gauge console with the stock amber lights in it. Hope red is a little brighter than the blue and doesnt look as dim.
TCRS193 is offline  
Old 04-27-2005, 11:54 PM
  #48  
Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Richmond, KY
Posts: 45
Default

Hmm, cant edit my post. anyways

One thing I "DID" notice
TCRS193 is offline  
Old 04-28-2005, 03:00 AM
  #49  
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
Scikotics
SL Member

 
engifineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 9,728
Default

Originally Posted by TCRS193
Just ordered the LED's for this, 400 MCD should be bright. One thing I didnt notice was that the center consloe is dimmer than the gauge console with the stock amber lights in it. Hope red is a little brighter than the blue and doesnt look as dim.
The center console runs on a lower voltage. So the 3.2V LEDs that me and many others are using (mine should arive this week) will be dim. Once they are here and I have done the gauges, I plan reverse engineering the circuits for the console and replacing the resistors in series with the LED to produce enough current to light them properly. And 400 mcd will be plenty bright. I am using 350 mcd LEDs.
engifineer is offline  
Old 05-03-2005, 12:24 AM
  #50  
Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Richmond, KY
Posts: 45
Default

Still havenít received my LEDís yet, not sure why itís taking so long. Looks like the place I ordered the LED from have changed the price and the minimum quantity you can order. (www.lc-led.com)

On a side not, Iíve noticed a small black dot on the clock screen the other day, and this morning was cold enough to use the heater, thatís when I saw the fan speed indicator on the left side wasnít showing the display and it now looks like a very small crack and 2 dots. Guess ill take it to service tomorrow.

Iíve read a few post where the LCD is very sensitive (more so than most LCDís). If this is the case, maybe ill think twice about installing the LEDís to begin with.
TCRS193 is offline  
Old 05-03-2005, 12:55 AM
  #51  
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
Scikotics
SL Member

 
engifineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 9,728
Default

Originally Posted by TCRS193
Still havenít received my LEDís yet, not sure why itís taking so long. Looks like the place I ordered the LED from have changed the price and the minimum quantity you can order. (www.lc-led.com)

On a side not, Iíve noticed a small black dot on the clock screen the other day, and this morning was cold enough to use the heater, thatís when I saw the fan speed indicator on the left side wasnít showing the display and it now looks like a very small crack and 2 dots. Guess ill take it to service tomorrow.

Iíve read a few post where the LCD is very sensitive (more so than most LCDís). If this is the case, maybe ill think twice about installing the LEDís to begin with.
Did you order the blue? I did from the same place.. ordered them around the 5th I believe and am still waiting for them. They supposedly shipped out today. They have no number, and when you email, the guy that responds does not make complete sentences, so I just hope they make it here
engifineer is offline  
Old 05-03-2005, 11:21 AM
  #52  
Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Richmond, KY
Posts: 45
Default

I ordered the Red ones.
TCRS193 is offline  
Old 05-09-2005, 12:35 AM
  #53  
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
 
Rivulent's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,067
Default

I ordered red and blue. The rep said they ran out of blue (2 weeks ago) so the order took a while to receive, but I got mine yesterday.
Rivulent is offline  
Old 05-09-2005, 03:21 AM
  #54  
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
Scikotics
SL Member

 
engifineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 9,728
Default

Yep, got mine too :-)





I know... I posted them in another forum the other day... but....
engifineer is offline  
Old 05-19-2005, 09:19 PM
  #55  
Member
5 Year Member
SoCal tC Club
SL Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: LA, California
Posts: 56
Default

k, i read all the posts.. i'm still not sure which size to buy. i know the size is PLCC2 and i need somthing better then 100mcd.. but can someone tell me what voltage or exactly where i can get blue leds?
Crafter is offline  
Old 05-19-2005, 10:37 PM
  #56  
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
Scikotics
SL Member

 
engifineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 9,728
Default

Originally Posted by Crafter
k, i read all the posts.. i'm still not sure which size to buy. i know the size is PLCC2 and i need somthing better then 100mcd.. but can someone tell me what voltage or exactly where i can get blue leds?
I sent you a link in response to the PM. The ones I used are 350 mcd, which are perfect for the job. They have a wide view angle too which provides even coverage.
engifineer is offline  
Old 05-23-2005, 05:56 AM
  #57  
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
Team ScioNRG
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 150
Default

Has anyone tried to do 2 different colors yet? Like the numbers is white and the lines are white. Like the new 2005 toyota corolla xrs? my friend just got a xrs and i think the dash is niceeee
idriveatC is offline  
Old 05-23-2005, 11:22 AM
  #58  
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
Scikotics
SL Member

 
engifineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 9,728
Default

Originally Posted by idriveatC
Has anyone tried to do 2 different colors yet? Like the numbers is white and the lines are white. Like the new 2005 toyota corolla xrs? my friend just got a xrs and i think the dash is niceeee
That will not work easily on our gauges. There are only a few LEDs that light up each gauge. The red portions are actually lit up by the same leds as well. The numbers are also lit up with the same LEDs. You would need to modify the plastic peices on the gauge cluster to do it and most likely then move around some of the LEDs on the board, which will not be a fun project.
engifineer is offline  
Old 05-24-2005, 12:23 AM
  #59  
Senior Member
10 Year Member
5 Year Member
SL Member
Team ScioNRG
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 150
Default

Should i put in WHITE LED's then and hope someone will make guage faces and just let it light it up that way?
idriveatC is offline  
Old 05-29-2005, 02:14 AM
  #60  
Junior Member
5 Year Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 16
Default

I really wanna do this but I have no experience in soldering at all. Is there anything important like putting the LED the right way. What does that mean ? Is it like putting the LED in the right way like you do with a battery wtih -/+ ? Does the PCB show which is -/+ or am i going have to do a trail and error thing.

Is there more to this then just soldering some LED out and putting some new ones in ?
zero01 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: LED Swap (Guages / HVAC)


Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.