WeDriveScions

Here's the breakdown...

[table:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Crank Pulley[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]Alternator Pulley[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]Water Pulley[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]OEM ~55oz[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]OEM 9.6 oz[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]OEM 13.4 oz[mrow color=red:ba5e3ba19b]NST UNDERDRIVE 20oz[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]NST OVERDRIVE 3oz[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]NST LIGHTWEIGHT 6.3oz[/table:ba5e3ba19b]

The crank is a little heavier than others out there. But, given the fact that the water pump is also lighter than the OEM as well as the Alternator, which I anticipate to be lighter as well... It gives this set a good advantage.

But it's ALSO UNDERDRIVE, so it gives more power to the wheels, than to other components, such as the a/c.

Now to the Install!!!!

Disclaimer - This install guide is only based on my experience and for your basic information on how to perform this installation yourself. Please take every safety precaution neccesary. I will not be held liabel for any damages this can cause to your engine if done improperly, or if following these directions, as I am only a tuner like yourself. Please perform at your own risk.

-With that out of the way-


[table:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Tools Needed[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]Good Air Gun Setup
New Belt - Number K060747
Open Ended Wrench 12mm
Socket Set with 10mm/19mm/14mm/22mm/12mm
Flathead ScrewDriver
Good Socket Breaker Bar
Pulley Removal Tool (Less That 20 bucks at harbor freight)
Nice Bright Lights (To See)
Good Torque wrench (Up to 110 ft/lbs)
Strap Wrench (To hold pulleys in place)
[mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 1 -

Jack up the right side of the car and place it on a jack stand for stability[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 2 -

Remove Tire and look for plastic side panel....

-Remove two 10mm screws and one pop holder on the outside
-Remove two pop holders (One underneath and one up on the backside of the piece)
[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 3 -

Picture of the piece removed
to the right of the picture, you'll see the two pop-holders that are a little harder to get (You can also see them in the last picture of the install[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 4 -

Look at crank pulley and line up the notch on the pulley with something you can note...

I lined it up with a side of the bolt next to it (comes in handy later)
[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 5 -

Use a 19MM socket and air gun to remove the bolt holding the crank pulley on

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 6 -

Look at crank pulley and stair bewildered at how hard the stupid bolt was to take off.

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 7 -

Locate the tensioner bolt and use the breaker bar to pull the tensioner assembly toward the front of the car, while pulling off the belt from the crank pulley down below

(Two People Are A Must For This)

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 8 -

Leave the Crank Pulley Alone for now and disconnect the positive lead to the battery using a 10 MM socket
[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 9 -

Note the small cap on the bolt which needs to be removed to remove the wire (10MM)

Also remove the plug connection by squeezing it and pulling up.
[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 10 -

Look at this pic of all the connections removed, also release the white clip on the front of the alternator

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 11 -

Remove the Alternator by first removing the 14mm bolt on the top rear, and then the 12mm bolt hidden under the pulley
[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 12 -

Look at this pic of the wire assemble nut, the 14mm rear bolt and the 12mm front bolt.

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 13 -

WIGGLE WIGGLE WIGGLE the alternator out of it's holder.

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 14 -

Here's a pic of the Alternator with the stock pulley

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 15 -

To Ease the removal of the pulley bolt, we wrapped the pulley with a rag and used a 22mm socket and air gun to remove the nut.

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 16 -

Place the new alternator pully on and torque it down!

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 17 -

Stare amazed at the size difference and how light it is compared to stock

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 18 -

Locate the water pump pulley and remove the 4 12 mm bolts holding it on

(This is REALLY tough)

We used a small open ended 12mm wrench and put a flat head screwdriver as in the picture to hold the pulley in place.

LOTS OF ENERGY EXPENDED ON THIS STEP

Note - For Automatic tC's you will need to angle this correctly to get it out... but it is possible.

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 19 -

Look at the difference in pulleys and be amazed at the weight difference AGAIN!

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 20 -

Put the new pulley back on and tighten the for 12mm bolts down


IT'S HARD TO HOLD THE PULLEY IN PLACE!

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 21 -

Get your pulley removal tool READY for the CRANK PULLEY

(It's Scary Looking)

Put the outside hooks over the pulley edges and the loosen the middle screw to get them on, then tighten the screw and slowely pull the pulley off!

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 22 -

Stare Amazed AGAIN at the difference in size, and feel the weight difference!

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 23 -

Note to notch that MUST line up with the new pulley

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 24 -

Line the new pulley notch with your mentally noted mark and line it up correctly...

Use a nice rubber hammer, or block with hammer to knock that baby on.

Tighten it down to 110 ft/lbs

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 25 -

Slide the Alternator down into it's home and bolt it back down with the 14mm rear bolt and the 12mm bolt underneath... resnap in the cable harness and 10 mm bolt holding the wire to the top...

plug the wiring harness back in

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 26 -

Look at this nifty diagram to see how the belt goes on... it's really confusing....

Pull on the tensioner assembly again to pull the belt over the crank pulley

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 27 -

Check the belt to ensure it lines up and freely moves

Look for any weird tools in the engine bay!

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 28 -

Reattach the plastic piece and make sure to get the rear two pop-holders back in!

[mcol:ba5e3ba19b][mrow:ba5e3ba19b]Step 29 -

Replace your wheel and torque it down to spec.... lower your car off the jackstand and start it up to ensure the belt runs freely and doesn't squeak or move back and forth[mcol:ba5e3ba19b]



[/table:ba5e3ba19b]


If I forget something, please let me know, and I'll do my best to get it in... Suggestions to improve are welcome!


-WDS

zer0

Good writeup, any chance of a dyno?

WeDriveScions

Not a before/after... as I can't fork out more cash... but am looking to do a Dyno to tune my N2O, so I'll have one with all my parts installed, including these, so you can get a good look at an Intake/Header/Exhaust w/ Pulleys dyno and then when running the ZEX kit as well...

I'd be curious, but I'm definately sure my Butt Dyno will read well and I'll post my honest opinion regarding it.

...I hope

Munch

Sweet

jwaggz82

iTrader: (1)

how hard is it to swap all 3 out for warranty work?

Munch

It's pretty easy with air tools. The alt pulley is the hardest one because of the limited space. But if you take the alt off, then it's a breeze.

aarontrini85

my payment just cleared so im hopeing it ship soon but glad to see you helping out the comunity with a write up (im to lazy to do sutch things lol)

Fsu1dolfan

Keeping an eye on this...thanks

Sam_J84

awesome, great choice in pulley's. you'll really feel the diff.

WeDriveScions

There you go Guys!

WDS comes through again!

taek

man

mods let him be a moderator

shoot, if i hadnt known, i think he is one
LOOKA T HIS FREAKIN CONTRIBUTION

-taek

sensay

o he is. master of locking threads... Hey how bout telling us your take on performance diffrences?

davedavetC

iTrader: (4)

agreed, CAN YOU FEEL IT? (try to imagin those words in the tone you would say can you dig it? lol yea i suck at life what can i say..... )

WeDriveScions

Ohh.... reving feels so much more responsive to my feet... 1st and 2nd definately give me more of an inititial shift-in response and my clutch/gas transitions feel so much smoother, as the engine picks right up!

Very happy with this one.... much more "Feeling' than my strut bar and such....

The Butt Dyno is impressed....

davedavetC

iTrader: (4)

so its worth it?

mike from NST pretty much convinecd me to get them haha (im just gonna get the crank tho)

they have great customer service tho. im impressed.

WeDriveScions

I believe everyone would be definately impressed with the feeling for the money... all three weight much less than stock... I have to weigh the stock pullies at work on monday on my postal scale, but there is a significant weight difference with all three...

davedavetC

iTrader: (4)

im just gonna get the crank. i dont wanna play with the other stuff. im a wimp lol

WeDriveScions

It's not that hard, as you can see ^ Golly LoL

Krayzie_Los

does it use the stock belt? from the pictures, there's a significant size difference in the crank and alt pully....eventually that stock belt will stretch and slipping/squeeling may start....

i could be wrong tho, i haven't checked how much the tensioner adjusts...

WeDriveScions

Under Tools Needed

Good Air Gun Setup
New Belt - Number K060747
Open Ended Wrench 12mm
Socket Set with 10mm/19mm/14mm/22mm/12mm
Flathead ScrewDriver
Good Socket Breaker Bar
Pulley Removal Tool (Less That 20 bucks at harbor freight)
Nice Bright Lights (To See)
Good Torque wrench (Up to 110 ft/lbs)
Strap Wrench (To hold pulleys in place)

LoL - If all else fails... read the directions.... LoL