Short Shifter Install (TWM)
11-29-2004, 10:09 PM
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 254
Short Shifter Install (TWM)
This is an install how-to for the TWM short shifter for the Scion tC.
First of all, I am NOT responsible for what you or this aftermarket part does to your car. Unless you are completely comfortable with tearing things apart and getting your hands dirty, DO NOT PROCEED.
* ALWAYS keep hardware (bolts, nuts, screws, anything) in a SAFE PLACE.
Tools you'll need:
- Screwdrivers, phillips and flathead
- Socket wrench and socket set
- Hammer
- Dremel
- Patience
And now for the install:
Here is what you'll get from TWM. The shift lever, some replacement clips, a special tool for the installation, a few decals, and some absolutely worthless instructions:
Way to go, guys. Top notch stuff here.
Begin by removing your shift ****. Remember, "lefty loosey."
There are four points at which the shift gate cover are clipped down. The arrows mark the points at which you'll want to pry.
Before lifting it up, flip the cover over to reveal the plug for the cigarette lighter.
Here they are.
The power plug should slide right off.
This clip will need a little wiggling to pull off.
The piece with the cupholders has four clip points, just like the first part. Plant your hand well underneat and pull firmly.
Use your fingertips to pry loose the rear clips.
Yet another AC plug next to the E-brake needs to be disconnected before we can pull everything up. It's a stiff clip, use patience.
The wiring from the main cigarette lighter needs to be unclipped one more time. Reach underneath and pop it out.
Next, lift open your arm rest. Use your imagination to lift the carpet out. It isn't attached by adhesive, so just yank it out.
Underneath, you'll find too bolts holding the rear section down. Use a 3/8 socket to unscrew them. They aren't very tight,
they almost felt as if they were finger-tight. Pull out the bolts and put them in a safe place.
Next, unscrew the two points holding the forward part of the console in.
Gently slide the console back, but don't lift yet.
Work your hand under the rear portion, and lift upward and back. Use your other hand to guide the console out from between the seats.
Your back seat should now look like this. Do not throw these parts away, as we will use them while installing the new shift lever. (
)
On the left side of this assembly, you'll find this clip. Use a tool of your choice to push up on the part shown in the picture.
No big deal. I wish I could say as much for the rest of the process.
Behind the shifter assembly, at the bottom of the shift lever, you'll find this clip holding the arm to the lever. Use your thumb or a tool to unfasten the clip. I found that I did not have to remove this completely, so i just pushed the little rods out of the way.
I'm getting frustrated again, thinking about this part. The instructions read that you should use a flathead screwdriver to pry the washer/clip off of the end of this rod. It's not that easy. My first recommendation would be to use Mikochu's dremel method, shown here:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=28859
Or, you could do what I did, and jimmy it out while swearing alot. I boogered up the assembly pretty bad, and the fact that I used a rusty screwdriver makes it look even worse. Alas, I did it. Just be prepared to scuff up your assembly if you go this route.
Dead.
Next, use a punch, or screwdriver, to push this rod out of the lefthand side. I tapped it loose with a hammer, then tapped the handle of a screwdriver to slide it out. Slide the rod out and put it in a safe place. Then remove the leftmost part of the assembly from the smaller ball of the shift lever. Make note of the spring configuration. Try not to disturb it, but if you do, make sure to return it back to where it should be.
With some more scuffing, swearing, and prying, pop off the piece that holds the lever down in place. Leverage is nonexistant here, so be careful about how forceful you are.
Shown is the piece coming up, after suffering my wrath.
Before you remove the shift lever, remove these two pieces from the shaft. Put them in a safe place.
Remove the stock shift lever and place it next to the TWM replacement. Revel in the glory and excitement of the shorter shift throws to come.
Back to reality! You need this little "cup" from the stock lever.
Included is a special tool for snapping it off. TWM says you should place the lever in a vice, and this, and that, and yadda yadda yadda. But I found myself reverting back to Mikochu's wise methods, shown below.
Place the soles of your shoes over the flat ring, and pull like your life depends on it. The cap will pop off, so make sure it doesn't go far.
Another victory. Make sure to grease up the lower ball on the lever with some lubricant. I found that the stock shifter was covered in enough goop to transfer to the new lever with my fingertips. This part is your call, though.
Pop the cap onto the bottom of the new lever. I did this by letting the cap stick to the lube on the ball joint, and giving it a quick jab at the pavement. I wouldn't use too much force though. Again, getting this done is your call.
After greasing up the ball joints, seat the lever in the stock assembly and replace the upper ring. The piece uses clips, so it will take some brute force to get it to snap back down. Once the upper plastic ring is in place, pull up on the lever to see if there is any play in the joint. If not, you're okay. Don't worry about how the ball joints connect yet.
Before you forget, put those little plastic bits on your new lever.
Now, move that assembly on the lefthand side back into place. Make sure that the spring mechanism is in it's original position. The lefthand ball joint on the lever should be peeking through.
Use a hammer to lightly tap the rod back through it's original shaft. Once it's all the way, give it a few more taps to compress the spring a bit. The end of the rod should be sticking out of the other end.
I know, it looks really gross. This is what happens when you use a rusty screwdriver to monkey up your stock assembly. Again, I would recommend the dremel method. But anyway, place the new washer/clip provided by TWM around the end of the shaft. The teeth should be sticking out. Use a hammer and an oversized socket to work the washer/clip into place.
Replace the clip on the lefthand side of the assembly. Pop. Done.
Next, reach under the assembly and seat the bottom of the lever in the arm harness. Pull the two-sided clip back over so it holds the plastic cup in place.
Replace the main console piece: Two screws under the AC controls and the two bolts in the storage compartment. Reconnect the pieces pointed out in the picture.
Replace the cupholder piece. It will snap back into place. We're almost there, but we're going to fiddle with the shift boot first.
Turn the boot inside out and remove the fastener ring.
Pull the plastic ring out of the boot, then move the fastener ring down to the middle, like shown above.
Now, push the ring back into the boot, letting the fastener ring rest on top of the plastic ring.
Don't forget to reattach the cigarette lighter plug.
Replace the boot/shift cover and replace the shift ****. Then you'll have...
A nice new short shifter. :D
I would almost recommend this as a first upgrade. It really feels more like driving a sports coupe than a sedan after the new shifter is in. It takes a bit more effort to make the throws, but if you're on top of it, it's really fun.
Enjoy, and drive safely.
-John
First of all, I am NOT responsible for what you or this aftermarket part does to your car. Unless you are completely comfortable with tearing things apart and getting your hands dirty, DO NOT PROCEED.
* ALWAYS keep hardware (bolts, nuts, screws, anything) in a SAFE PLACE.
Tools you'll need:
- Screwdrivers, phillips and flathead
- Socket wrench and socket set
- Hammer
- Dremel
- Patience
And now for the install:
Here is what you'll get from TWM. The shift lever, some replacement clips, a special tool for the installation, a few decals, and some absolutely worthless instructions:
Way to go, guys. Top notch stuff here.
Begin by removing your shift ****. Remember, "lefty loosey."
There are four points at which the shift gate cover are clipped down. The arrows mark the points at which you'll want to pry.
Before lifting it up, flip the cover over to reveal the plug for the cigarette lighter.
Here they are.
The power plug should slide right off.
This clip will need a little wiggling to pull off.
The piece with the cupholders has four clip points, just like the first part. Plant your hand well underneat and pull firmly.
Use your fingertips to pry loose the rear clips.
Yet another AC plug next to the E-brake needs to be disconnected before we can pull everything up. It's a stiff clip, use patience.
The wiring from the main cigarette lighter needs to be unclipped one more time. Reach underneath and pop it out.
Next, lift open your arm rest. Use your imagination to lift the carpet out. It isn't attached by adhesive, so just yank it out.
Underneath, you'll find too bolts holding the rear section down. Use a 3/8 socket to unscrew them. They aren't very tight,
they almost felt as if they were finger-tight. Pull out the bolts and put them in a safe place.
Next, unscrew the two points holding the forward part of the console in.
Gently slide the console back, but don't lift yet.
Work your hand under the rear portion, and lift upward and back. Use your other hand to guide the console out from between the seats.
Your back seat should now look like this. Do not throw these parts away, as we will use them while installing the new shift lever. (
)On the left side of this assembly, you'll find this clip. Use a tool of your choice to push up on the part shown in the picture.
No big deal. I wish I could say as much for the rest of the process.
Behind the shifter assembly, at the bottom of the shift lever, you'll find this clip holding the arm to the lever. Use your thumb or a tool to unfasten the clip. I found that I did not have to remove this completely, so i just pushed the little rods out of the way.
I'm getting frustrated again, thinking about this part. The instructions read that you should use a flathead screwdriver to pry the washer/clip off of the end of this rod. It's not that easy. My first recommendation would be to use Mikochu's dremel method, shown here:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=28859
Or, you could do what I did, and jimmy it out while swearing alot. I boogered up the assembly pretty bad, and the fact that I used a rusty screwdriver makes it look even worse. Alas, I did it. Just be prepared to scuff up your assembly if you go this route.
Dead.
Next, use a punch, or screwdriver, to push this rod out of the lefthand side. I tapped it loose with a hammer, then tapped the handle of a screwdriver to slide it out. Slide the rod out and put it in a safe place. Then remove the leftmost part of the assembly from the smaller ball of the shift lever. Make note of the spring configuration. Try not to disturb it, but if you do, make sure to return it back to where it should be.
With some more scuffing, swearing, and prying, pop off the piece that holds the lever down in place. Leverage is nonexistant here, so be careful about how forceful you are.
Shown is the piece coming up, after suffering my wrath.
Before you remove the shift lever, remove these two pieces from the shaft. Put them in a safe place.
Remove the stock shift lever and place it next to the TWM replacement. Revel in the glory and excitement of the shorter shift throws to come.
Back to reality! You need this little "cup" from the stock lever.
Included is a special tool for snapping it off. TWM says you should place the lever in a vice, and this, and that, and yadda yadda yadda. But I found myself reverting back to Mikochu's wise methods, shown below.
Place the soles of your shoes over the flat ring, and pull like your life depends on it. The cap will pop off, so make sure it doesn't go far.
Another victory. Make sure to grease up the lower ball on the lever with some lubricant. I found that the stock shifter was covered in enough goop to transfer to the new lever with my fingertips. This part is your call, though.
Pop the cap onto the bottom of the new lever. I did this by letting the cap stick to the lube on the ball joint, and giving it a quick jab at the pavement. I wouldn't use too much force though. Again, getting this done is your call.
After greasing up the ball joints, seat the lever in the stock assembly and replace the upper ring. The piece uses clips, so it will take some brute force to get it to snap back down. Once the upper plastic ring is in place, pull up on the lever to see if there is any play in the joint. If not, you're okay. Don't worry about how the ball joints connect yet.
Before you forget, put those little plastic bits on your new lever.
Now, move that assembly on the lefthand side back into place. Make sure that the spring mechanism is in it's original position. The lefthand ball joint on the lever should be peeking through.
Use a hammer to lightly tap the rod back through it's original shaft. Once it's all the way, give it a few more taps to compress the spring a bit. The end of the rod should be sticking out of the other end.
I know, it looks really gross. This is what happens when you use a rusty screwdriver to monkey up your stock assembly. Again, I would recommend the dremel method. But anyway, place the new washer/clip provided by TWM around the end of the shaft. The teeth should be sticking out. Use a hammer and an oversized socket to work the washer/clip into place.
Replace the clip on the lefthand side of the assembly. Pop. Done.
Next, reach under the assembly and seat the bottom of the lever in the arm harness. Pull the two-sided clip back over so it holds the plastic cup in place.
Replace the main console piece: Two screws under the AC controls and the two bolts in the storage compartment. Reconnect the pieces pointed out in the picture.
Replace the cupholder piece. It will snap back into place. We're almost there, but we're going to fiddle with the shift boot first.
Turn the boot inside out and remove the fastener ring.
Pull the plastic ring out of the boot, then move the fastener ring down to the middle, like shown above.
Now, push the ring back into the boot, letting the fastener ring rest on top of the plastic ring.
Don't forget to reattach the cigarette lighter plug.
Replace the boot/shift cover and replace the shift ****. Then you'll have...
A nice new short shifter. :D
I would almost recommend this as a first upgrade. It really feels more like driving a sports coupe than a sedan after the new shifter is in. It takes a bit more effort to make the throws, but if you're on top of it, it's really fun.
Enjoy, and drive safely.
-John
11-29-2004, 10:39 PM
#4
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 202
I second that.. nice write up. Can you still keep your arm on the center console while shifting.. or is it too low to reach down? haha i like being able to reach it while my arm is rested on the console.
11-29-2004, 11:21 PM
#6
Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 41
Very good write up. I just put mine in this past weekend. I got the metal clip to pop off pretty easy without a dremel. I used one regular sized flat head and a hammer to wedge the screw driver into one side between the plastic and the ring. Then I got a larger flat head and hammered it into the other side of the ring. Then I hammered once on one then the other driving both screw drivers between the ring. It quickly popped off. No sweat!
11-30-2004, 12:54 AM
#10
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SL Member
Team ScioNRG
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: woohsta
Posts: 261
bad is not having anything at all. yes the pics were kinda crapy but still you got the idea and it pretty much told you in words what to do oh well no big deal um not here to crap on ya 
12-11-2004, 01:53 PM
#20
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 239
I wont be buying that at all... it's a total waste of money for something it doesn't do. It dosen't shorten the shifts, it just feels like it does cuz they made the top of the shifter shorter. A "short shifter" doesn't mean that the stick you see is shorter necessarily, it means that your shift throws are shorter. This is accomplished by raising the pivot point on the shifter (the ball) like this:
What TMW did on that shifter could easily be accomplished by taking your stock shfiter out and hack-sawing about 2" from the top of it and then installing some kind of universal set-screw type shift ****. Check this out:
They didn't raise the pivot point at all... it's exactly the same length as the stock one. The whole idea behind raising the pivot point is that it takes less movement on top of that point to make the bottom of the lever move more.
TMWs shifter isn't a "short shfiter" at all... it's just a "shortened" shifter and provides no real performance upgrade. It's simply for looks... and it costs way more than it should.
What TMW did on that shifter could easily be accomplished by taking your stock shfiter out and hack-sawing about 2" from the top of it and then installing some kind of universal set-screw type shift ****. Check this out:
They didn't raise the pivot point at all... it's exactly the same length as the stock one. The whole idea behind raising the pivot point is that it takes less movement on top of that point to make the bottom of the lever move more.
TMWs shifter isn't a "short shfiter" at all... it's just a "shortened" shifter and provides no real performance upgrade. It's simply for looks... and it costs way more than it should.