Ground Wire Kit Install (Homemade)
02-05-2007, 06:19 PM
#221
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 136
Originally Posted by Breadbox_Boy
yo itsmistale2u, I got a cheap-o ($20) grounding kit from e-bay. Similar to this one
Following the instructions here on SL, it was super -easy to hook up.. did it make much of a difference? Ehhh, some days I think it did, some days I can't tell. I left the wires on just cause they mess with people (like at Jiffy Lube) that open the hood. "What are these tube things?" "Oh, those are for the freon cooled super charger.. bump them loose and the freon will freeze your arm off." Funny how that makes them real careful working on your box. I know, it's not nice to screw with people like that... but damn, it sure is fun.
Following the instructions here on SL, it was super -easy to hook up.. did it make much of a difference? Ehhh, some days I think it did, some days I can't tell. I left the wires on just cause they mess with people (like at Jiffy Lube) that open the hood. "What are these tube things?" "Oh, those are for the freon cooled super charger.. bump them loose and the freon will freeze your arm off." Funny how that makes them real careful working on your box. I know, it's not nice to screw with people like that... but damn, it sure is fun.
02-06-2007, 01:08 PM
#222
Member
SL Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 74
Anyone ever actually solder the wire to the ring connectors? I'm planning on doing this tonight and instead of having to mess with crimping figured I'd just solder the rings to the wire and save a ton of hassle, then shrink wrap as usual to insulate the contact.
Just wondering as I haven't specifically read that anyone soldered vs. crimping.
Just wondering as I haven't specifically read that anyone soldered vs. crimping.
02-07-2007, 02:32 PM
#225
Member
SL Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 74
I did this last night. The instructions were great and very straightforward. Unfortunately, I'm one of the people who saw little-to-no difference. The only discernable difference was when the car was warmed up it idled ever so slightly lower than w/o the ground wires. I removed them all in about 5 minutes, restarted the car to confirm and the idle was approximately 50-75RPMs higher than with the ground wires on.
Thanks, again, for the great write-up.
Thanks, again, for the great write-up.
02-21-2007, 08:28 PM
#227
Member
SL Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 81
Make sure you get thin ring connectors because if you dont they will not be able to wrench down inside the coil pack. I tried to buy a longer bolt to bolt it down from auto zone but I guess that metal was crap because it broke inside the coil pack threads and I can't get it out.
Also I was wondering if anybody knew if that would mess up my car. The coil pack just sits in there so it shouldn't be a problem. But if the crappy bolt starts to melt or break inside the threads of that coil pack it isn't going to mess anything up is it?
Also I was wondering if anybody knew if that would mess up my car. The coil pack just sits in there so it shouldn't be a problem. But if the crappy bolt starts to melt or break inside the threads of that coil pack it isn't going to mess anything up is it?
02-22-2007, 05:35 PM
#230
Member
SL Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 81
^^^^ Im sorry but I didn't understand what you meant above. Could you explain it a little better. I tried to get it out but it wouldn't budge I thought about taking it to a shop and seeing if they could drill it out but I didn't know if that was possible. I have actually been driving with it like that for about a year and havent had any problems so maybe it isn't that big of a deal.
02-22-2007, 05:58 PM
#231
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Center Point, AL
Posts: 3,167
You might be right then.....
But what I was thinking of was to remove the coil pack and gently putting it in a vise, take a small punch and hammer and tapping it off certer to either"walk" it back out or on thru the unit....kinda like a screwdriver....
But what I was thinking of was to remove the coil pack and gently putting it in a vise, take a small punch and hammer and tapping it off certer to either"walk" it back out or on thru the unit....kinda like a screwdriver....
02-27-2007, 07:01 PM
#233
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Hurricane, WV
Posts: 19
Forgive me, but I'm just trying to get a grasp on the physics of this whole concept. In the setup described here, we're daisy chaining the ground points, linking the body to the engine to the battery to the body again. This, of course, is in addition to the factory ground wire run, I believe, below the right headlight. Wouldn't the ideal situation be to have one unified ground point? In no way am I claiming to be an expert. Heck, I don't have much of a clue, but if someone who understands the science behind it could explain the difference between the daisy chain vs. one ground point approach, I'd appreciate it.
Also, on these kits that you see on eBay, the ones with the disc and the multiple mounting slots for wiring, is that designed such that, in this case, you'd mount that metal disc one the bolt on the body and run all the other grounding wires from their origin to the disc? I can't figure those things out.
Also, on these kits that you see on eBay, the ones with the disc and the multiple mounting slots for wiring, is that designed such that, in this case, you'd mount that metal disc one the bolt on the body and run all the other grounding wires from their origin to the disc? I can't figure those things out.
02-27-2007, 08:43 PM
#234
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 43
Does this also help eliminate ground loop problems (hissing audio)?
In particular, I'm getting a lot of noise (from the alternator?) when I plug in my iPod to the AUX jack as well as the cig lighter for power. I heard it's due to the cigarette lighter jack having a different resistance to ground compared to the audio system's ground, so that current flows to/from the cig lighter ground to the audio ground. Not sure how improving the grounding in the engine bay helps, but these things are quite over my head already so I thought I'd ask
In particular, I'm getting a lot of noise (from the alternator?) when I plug in my iPod to the AUX jack as well as the cig lighter for power. I heard it's due to the cigarette lighter jack having a different resistance to ground compared to the audio system's ground, so that current flows to/from the cig lighter ground to the audio ground. Not sure how improving the grounding in the engine bay helps, but these things are quite over my head already so I thought I'd ask
03-18-2007, 01:29 AM
#237
Senior Member
SL Member
Team ScioNRG
Scion Evolution
Scion Tuners
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Westminster, MD
Posts: 463
Originally Posted by Scazmatic
Forgive me, but I'm just trying to get a grasp on the physics of this whole concept. In the setup described here, we're daisy chaining the ground points, linking the body to the engine to the battery to the body again. This, of course, is in addition to the factory ground wire run, I believe, below the right headlight. Wouldn't the ideal situation be to have one unified ground point? In no way am I claiming to be an expert. Heck, I don't have much of a clue, but if someone who understands the science behind it could explain the difference between the daisy chain vs. one ground point approach, I'd appreciate it.
Also, on these kits that you see on eBay, the ones with the disc and the multiple mounting slots for wiring, is that designed such that, in this case, you'd mount that metal disc one the bolt on the body and run all the other grounding wires from their origin to the disc? I can't figure those things out.
Also, on these kits that you see on eBay, the ones with the disc and the multiple mounting slots for wiring, is that designed such that, in this case, you'd mount that metal disc one the bolt on the body and run all the other grounding wires from their origin to the disc? I can't figure those things out.
but im pretty sure its the same thing. the negative on the battery being the common pointwhen you do this, you aresending current to the point you have it at, as well as having that point act as ground for the next part in the sequnce. and of course it all ending back up at negative. the only thing i see different with the ones on ebay are A LOT more wires needed. plus it says you gotta mount that disk and crap, sounds like a pain. this is a very simple solution.
great write-up BTW
03-18-2007, 01:29 AM
#238
Senior Member
SL Member
Team ScioNRG
Scion Evolution
Scion Tuners
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Westminster, MD
Posts: 463
Originally Posted by Scazmatic
Forgive me, but I'm just trying to get a grasp on the physics of this whole concept. In the setup described here, we're daisy chaining the ground points, linking the body to the engine to the battery to the body again. This, of course, is in addition to the factory ground wire run, I believe, below the right headlight. Wouldn't the ideal situation be to have one unified ground point? In no way am I claiming to be an expert. Heck, I don't have much of a clue, but if someone who understands the science behind it could explain the difference between the daisy chain vs. one ground point approach, I'd appreciate it.
Also, on these kits that you see on eBay, the ones with the disc and the multiple mounting slots for wiring, is that designed such that, in this case, you'd mount that metal disc one the bolt on the body and run all the other grounding wires from their origin to the disc? I can't figure those things out.
Also, on these kits that you see on eBay, the ones with the disc and the multiple mounting slots for wiring, is that designed such that, in this case, you'd mount that metal disc one the bolt on the body and run all the other grounding wires from their origin to the disc? I can't figure those things out.
but im pretty sure its the same thing. the negative on the battery being the common pointwhen you do this, you aresending current to the point you have it at, as well as having that point act as ground for the next part in the sequnce. and of course it all ending back up at negative. the only thing i see different with the ones on ebay are A LOT more wires needed. plus it says you gotta mount that disk and crap, sounds like a pain. this is a very simple solution.
great write-up BTW
03-30-2007, 02:08 PM
#240
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 417
Anyone think this will make a difference on an xB with 400 miles on it? Should I do it now, or wait until performance deteriorates (like I could tell over time), and do it then for the peace of mind that it did something. 