This morning while I was heading to work, I start my car and let it warm up. After about 5 minutes, I get in the car and notice my sound was gone! My headunit was on, but no sound coming from my components or my subwoofers.

I check my amps, and none of them are powered on. I check all my connections, and nada!

1. Amps are connected to ground, power, and remote turn on.
2. Subs are connected
3. Component speakers are connected
4. Head unit powers up and works
5. Checked all fuses and they were all intact
6. Checked inline fuse and is intact

What am I am doing wrong or what went wrong? Help please!


Here's what I am running:

1. Eclipse avn5500 Hu
2. Fosgate T4004
3. Kenwood 2 channel amp
4. Two 12W3 JL 12" subs
5. 4 Gauge wiring kit connected to a power distributor block

Any help is appreciated!

 

Do you have a Digital Multi-Meter? (DMM) - they're available from Harbor Freight Tools for less than $10. With this, check the continuity across each fuse, as well as verify you have power on the amplifier's +12V AND remote terminals.

Larger fuses, like AGU, can appear to the eye to be good, but because they're stressed daily, will electrically fail. I would try replacing this fuse if you do not have a DMM. Make sure to use the correct value, and don't step it up in spite of the situation!

 

Check your wires (power, remote, etc.) to make sure they didn't rub on anything and get cut. That can happen from time to time.

 

Hi, thanks for the reply. Well, I don't have a DMM and my fuses I am using are 70AGA, I have replaced them with the same ones, even when the first ones weren't blown. I will pick up a meter tomorrow and check

 

I don't remember if the Eclipse head units have fuses in their remote turn on leads. Check there as well.

The key is looking for items that are common to both amplifiers. Remote turn on wire, positive wire prior fused distribution, ground wire prior to distribution, etc.

 

Thanks, i will check everything when I get the chance first thing first in the morning.

 

Good luck.

 

Take meter and test to se if you have 12 vdc at the fuse off the battery........the inline one........if you have power after that.......then goto power terminal at amp........if you have power there and at the remote wire then you have 12 v at amp.........then take out the fuses and put one side on each terminal on fuse out of the amp.......if it has 0 resistance it is blown..........

 

If it has zero resistance, it's GOOD. Most likely it will have a value very close to zero, but "infinity" or open would mean the fuse is bad.

 

^Correct..........long day at work........only I could get it backwards at this point in the day................yes 0 would be good...........spent my day rewiring a waterheater that some idiot hooked up at 480vac when it was supposed to be 208 3 phase.........time for a Miller.........nothing like pulling out heater elements that went boom like popcorn.............LOL........

 

*confused*

 

What happened to me one time was that something happened to my head unit that like blew out the antenna turn on or what ever it was and so I was not getting any power to the remote turn on. I had to rewire it through the power wire to the head unit and I just had it run through a separate switch which was kind of nice because if I didn't wan my subs on for some reason like if I had a headache then I could just turn them off.

 

Ahh nice nice, I got this taken care of! Two of my buddies found what was wrong, the inline fuse was not making contact with the fuse!

Everything is fixed and everything is working!

Thanks everyone!

 

good to hear!