MobileHID.com - The Best Waterproof HID Conversion kit!
all pm's answered...
Also - since this question comes up frequently, I decided to post it.
I know the H.I.D kit comes with the proper hardware, but what do you mean when you state,"relay and fuse"?
Good question. Most HID conversion kits on the market require a direct connection from the factory electrical system to the ballast via the factory headlight plug. This type of setup makes the ballast draw power from your factory electrical system. This is not a good thing since the HID bulbs require a 23,000 volt spike of energy when they fire up. You don't want that kind of power draw coming from your factory electrical system because your ballasts are then competing with every other unit that requires power to run.
The relay and fuse wiring harness allows you to connect the ballast directly to your battery and there is a remote turn on switch that connects to your headlight plug. So when you turn on your headlights, a small amount of power is sent to the relay switch which then sends power from the battery to the ballasts. This is the best way to hook up an HID conversion kit since you run zero risk of melting a plug and your ballasts get the power they need without strain.
This dedicated wire that runs from the battery to the ballasts also has a fuse so if for any reason the power draw is beyond what is safe- the fuse will blow. The kit also comes with spare fuses just in case something like this should occur or should you short circuit something during the installation.
Thanks!
Clifford
Also - since this question comes up frequently, I decided to post it.
I know the H.I.D kit comes with the proper hardware, but what do you mean when you state,"relay and fuse"?
Good question. Most HID conversion kits on the market require a direct connection from the factory electrical system to the ballast via the factory headlight plug. This type of setup makes the ballast draw power from your factory electrical system. This is not a good thing since the HID bulbs require a 23,000 volt spike of energy when they fire up. You don't want that kind of power draw coming from your factory electrical system because your ballasts are then competing with every other unit that requires power to run.
The relay and fuse wiring harness allows you to connect the ballast directly to your battery and there is a remote turn on switch that connects to your headlight plug. So when you turn on your headlights, a small amount of power is sent to the relay switch which then sends power from the battery to the ballasts. This is the best way to hook up an HID conversion kit since you run zero risk of melting a plug and your ballasts get the power they need without strain.
This dedicated wire that runs from the battery to the ballasts also has a fuse so if for any reason the power draw is beyond what is safe- the fuse will blow. The kit also comes with spare fuses just in case something like this should occur or should you short circuit something during the installation.
Thanks!
Clifford
Originally Posted by tikbhoy
hi, i ordered a set before from you but now i need h1 for my 05 crv. i dont seen any link for h1
http://www.mobilehid.com/scionlife.htm
how do i order h1 4.3k ?
http://www.mobilehid.com/scionlife.htm
how do i order h1 4.3k ?
i just finished paying
thanks
I JUST GOT THE 6K SET LAST NIGHT AND INSTALLED THEM IN 30 MIN IN MY SONAR PROJECTORS AND I MUST SAY IT'S MAD NUTS LOOKING. I'LL POST SOME PICS 4 YOU CLIFFUD. MAD PROPS GOES OUT 2 U AND A GREAT PRODUCT AT A GREAT PRICE.
Hi Norman,
The H1 kit doesn't come with a H1 socket since car manufacturers have different methods of seating H1 bulbs in their housings and often times have a intermediate wire harness or panel that backs the headlight housing. For this reason the H1 kits come with spade connectors for (-) and (+).
I just got done doing an install into a 1997 BMW 540 and it required an H7 kit that had an intermediate plastic piece that kept the bulb in place and I suggested that we keep it but use some tap-in connectors to "splice" into the wires. The connectors didn't really splice into the wires, they simply clipped onto them and provided a female terminal for the spade connector to plug into. You can do the same setup. I wish I took a picture to show you but if you go to Checker Auto or Radio Shack, they will be able to show you what I mean - just ask for a "Tap-in" connector that clips onto a wire - it's almost like splicing w/o all the cutting/stripping/crimping.
Thanks.
Clifford
The H1 kit doesn't come with a H1 socket since car manufacturers have different methods of seating H1 bulbs in their housings and often times have a intermediate wire harness or panel that backs the headlight housing. For this reason the H1 kits come with spade connectors for (-) and (+).
I just got done doing an install into a 1997 BMW 540 and it required an H7 kit that had an intermediate plastic piece that kept the bulb in place and I suggested that we keep it but use some tap-in connectors to "splice" into the wires. The connectors didn't really splice into the wires, they simply clipped onto them and provided a female terminal for the spade connector to plug into. You can do the same setup. I wish I took a picture to show you but if you go to Checker Auto or Radio Shack, they will be able to show you what I mean - just ask for a "Tap-in" connector that clips onto a wire - it's almost like splicing w/o all the cutting/stripping/crimping.
Thanks.
Clifford
That's funny you should say that. The BMW owner preferred to use the clip-ons instead of splicing the wires. All you need to do is provide a 12 volt source to the relay to trigger the HID lights to come on, it doesn't have to be a dedicated wire.
Thanks man! Can you send me an e-mail telling me which kit and color you want? Email: sales@mobilehid.com
Clifford
Clifford






Thanks for the order! 


