Shiroi

Oh gosh, where do I start....
This code didn't just sort of appear out of thin air...

Background: Attempted to turbo 08sciontc in Jan, failed, miserably, sh*t hit the fan, smoke screened highways, car broke, good times.
Got it home, removed the turbo, and turned a few things back to stock (injectors, air intake, spark plugs, ecm) and... she drives, just not too well.

Has been burning oil, about a quart every 400 mi.
Rough idle, rough start, stalls every now and again.

Got the code P0011, which can be a few things:
*incorrect camshaft timing
*wiring problems in intake control valve solenoid system
*continuous oil flow to piston chamber
*failed timing valve control solenoid

Now, she isn't leaking any oil, none, it's all going out the back. No visible smoking (there was when it was raining, and it was blue)

She runs, goes, accell's decently, is all but normal but for the idle.
I havent taken to a dealer b/c of the attempted turbo, and there's a few things needing replacing to get her looking stock again (and the repair shop I'm nearest is on the shoddy side) has about 45,000 mi.

So opinion, unless I need to give more info and find someone with an OBDII that should pinpoint more precisely what's going on, do ya think it might be the solenoid?
Previous hypotheses for the issues, that haven't been verified is a loose ring (or where stuff's lined up incorrectly) in one cylinder or issues with a valve guide.

Shiroi

Oh, and I've driven maybe a couple thousand (definitely less than 2k) miles since I took the turbo off and with the oil consumption being high, could something else have led up to the code being up?

Such as (after this point, my lack of know-how with cars will show) if a ring or valve/guide is bad and it's dumping oil in the piston chamber, will it build up enough to jack up the solenoid?
or has oil been passing through for other reasons and the solenoid isn't the only cause (such as, if I replace it, the oil loss won't disappear)

Augh, so many questions, and I know a diagnosis via computer won't be final, but believe me (if you can) my car won't divulge any info without taking her apart, she's kind of been a pain in the butt since the whole turbo'ing started.

Shiroi

A mechanically inclined friend says it to be the ECM, believing that the tuner messed it up while trying to tune the car.
I contacted the tuner, and he said the new turbo's ECU was only piggybacked onto the stock ECM and so the stock should be fine.
But I do understand that a wonky ECM could also be the cause.

...I'm just trying to share as much as I can to help with any possible diagnoses

Shiroi

...Am I posting in the wrong section, or are the ones with the know-how on vacation?

Shiroi

More updates incase anyone wants to leave comments..
Did a seafoam treatment (b/c the supercharger blew quarts of oil into the engine, so I was thinking maybe cleaning out this excess oil would help), at first, she died, like there was a fuel issue. Waited a few hours, she started right up, we drove around, we're thinking the MAF sensor might be bad.

As I was poking and prodding the engine this morning, there is some oil in the throttle body, it's pretty hard to see if any's pooled down there (I'm sure there is), but how much is too much?
The PCV valve looks and sounds new.
There's a little bit of oil hanging out in the tube (I don't know the name, but the picture in the link, the green arrows are pointing to the tube in question) but as I understand, that sucks air from the intake, right? How or why would there be oil there?

https://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/intake_tc/7SW.jpg

EDIT: After some research, that hose sends air from the crankcase to the air intake right before the throttle body. some oil in there is normal, but I"m thinking there may be more than normal in there.

Shiroi

Today, changed out the MAF sensor and did a compression check. Idle is smoother now, so the new sensor wasn't a bad idea.

Numbers:
1: 105
2: 75
3: 145
4: 125

Next step will be getting into the head to try and see if anything in particular stands out as being broke.

Again, she drives well enough, just acts like she cant breathe as oil is being burned (returned to the pan blacker and being sent out the back).

EDIT: Of note: the sparkplugs looked good, dry, and normal dust

Shiroi

SO, I think my next course of action, unless there's any advice from anyone here, is to remove the head. If it's the head gasket being the problem, replace it, button 'er up, drive on. If it's the cyl's, rings, pistons, anything in that area, the engine's coming out and likely to be replaced.
New engine's cheaper than a new car, especially since the rest of her is just fine.
Then maybe build up the old engine, get it all fancy-like, swap it some time in the future.

And I'll be pricing and parting out the turbo system. That'll be up eventually.

Shiroi

All the votes lean towards bad rings.

So, so far, I"m thinking of replacing the entire engine or just the short block.
Although I ask, is it feasible to replace just the short block, likely going to be just stock, or should I go for the whole engine in case for some reason the main engine doesn't like the short block?
Or, now that I"m thinking outloud, there may be something else off in, say, the valve or cam areas that would still warrant a "new" engine..

Eh, still exploring options.

Shiroi

So, my next step, going to take apart the engine, and if it's a simple fix (gasket) then bam, done, otherwise I'm anticipating I'll need to swap the engine.

My question is tho, if I do a one for one, same engine, will the ECU/M need to be reprogrammed? or will it think that's the normal engine?

(And yeah, I'm still resurrecting my own thread)

jct

not resurrecting it, updating it

Shiroi

*laughs* Of course, that's much better.