OIL FILTER BASICS
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 601
From: Butler, PA
If I could pose a question: Have any of you heard of, or even better, know of an extended life oil filter that is suitably constructed. For instance, I have been using AMSOIL Ea Oil Filters. http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/eao.aspx
They make a big flat claim:"guaranteed for 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first, when used in conjunction with AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil in gasoline and diesel vehicles in normal service, 15,000 miles in sever service". I hope they're half true, and have been changing my oil every 8,000 miles.
Also, check out the "absolute efficiency" they claim: AMSOIL Ea Oil Filters have the best efficiency rating in the industry. EaO Filters provide a filtering efficiency in accordance with industry standard ISO 4548-12 of 98.7 percent at 15 microns, while competitive filters containing conventional cellulose medias range from 40 to 80 percent efficiency
I suppose that it's just best to check out the link. BTW If you have a real interest in oil... At least browse some of this, it's called "The Motor Oil Bible". It can be found at the top of this page for download: http://themotoroilsite.com/forums/ It's been a strong influence over my oil beliefs.
They make a big flat claim:"guaranteed for 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first, when used in conjunction with AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil in gasoline and diesel vehicles in normal service, 15,000 miles in sever service". I hope they're half true, and have been changing my oil every 8,000 miles.
Also, check out the "absolute efficiency" they claim: AMSOIL Ea Oil Filters have the best efficiency rating in the industry. EaO Filters provide a filtering efficiency in accordance with industry standard ISO 4548-12 of 98.7 percent at 15 microns, while competitive filters containing conventional cellulose medias range from 40 to 80 percent efficiency
I suppose that it's just best to check out the link. BTW If you have a real interest in oil... At least browse some of this, it's called "The Motor Oil Bible". It can be found at the top of this page for download: http://themotoroilsite.com/forums/ It's been a strong influence over my oil beliefs.
Admin Emeritus
SL Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 14,570
From: University Place, WA
As an engineer (retired) I tend to be very leery of anything out of the
mouths of marketeers.
Corroborated independent testing (more than one lab, neither associated
in any way with the manufacturer) is something I can trust if the testing
procedures and what is being tested for make sense.
Tests run by the manufacturer, or by someone hired by the manufacturer,
and parroted by people with a direct interest in the results I don't always
trust.
From my experience, from the published experience of folks with
non-Toyota race engines actually modified to take Toyota filters, and from
my trust of the Toyota engineers, I lean very much toward the Toyota
filters.
What do *I* use? Proper Toyota filters, a high quality oil (in my case a
synthetic), and vehicle manufacturer suggested change intervals.
Beyond that there are MANY other opinions ranging all the way from "just
add oil when it's low - you won't be keeping the car that long, anyway,
someone else will reap the failure" to "I can run on this super 'mouse milk'
for 25,000 (or 100,000) miles because it is just so GOOD" to "I change oil
and filter every 1000 miles and never exceed 3000 RPM."
"Everyone is entitled to his own opinion, but not to his own facts."
Tom
mouths of marketeers.
Corroborated independent testing (more than one lab, neither associated
in any way with the manufacturer) is something I can trust if the testing
procedures and what is being tested for make sense.
Tests run by the manufacturer, or by someone hired by the manufacturer,
and parroted by people with a direct interest in the results I don't always
trust.
From my experience, from the published experience of folks with
non-Toyota race engines actually modified to take Toyota filters, and from
my trust of the Toyota engineers, I lean very much toward the Toyota
filters.
What do *I* use? Proper Toyota filters, a high quality oil (in my case a
synthetic), and vehicle manufacturer suggested change intervals.
Beyond that there are MANY other opinions ranging all the way from "just
add oil when it's low - you won't be keeping the car that long, anyway,
someone else will reap the failure" to "I can run on this super 'mouse milk'
for 25,000 (or 100,000) miles because it is just so GOOD" to "I change oil
and filter every 1000 miles and never exceed 3000 RPM."
"Everyone is entitled to his own opinion, but not to his own facts."
Tom
Senior Member
Big Sky Scion
SL Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,120
From: six-two-six
Originally Posted by Tomas
"Everyone is entitled to his own opinion, but not to his own facts."
Tom
Tom
Problem is, even facts are difficult in this topic.
There a lots of current/retired engineers that have real data and still disagree on oil basics.
I'm sure you've spent time on BITOG and you know what I mean.
You get to a point where you need to use good judgement and common-sense.
It's not hard to keep a car running a good, long time. If people read this thread, the "secrets" are here for all to absorb and use.
Scott
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 117
From: Countryside, IL.
Just got my xD and will be getting my LOF soon.
After reading this, my mind is steered towards using the OEM oil filter for the life of my car thanks to this thread.
Great information here and great thread.
After reading this, my mind is steered towards using the OEM oil filter for the life of my car thanks to this thread.
Great information here and great thread.
hey i just read this article after changing my oil. I bought a fram filter because i used that on my last car with over 50,000 miles on it in about 2yrs. i never had a problem but now im worried about my tC. i dont want to go buy more oil and a new filter just after changing it but do you all think it will be fine until my next oil change?
yea thanx man. i was planning on it i just needed to change my oil cause i couldnt get into the dealer in time before the 5,000mi was up. i have one more free oil change and i will use that next time and buy the 10 pack of filters from trdsparks and start running mobil1 synthetic.
Senior Member
Big Sky Scion
SL Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,120
From: six-two-six
Cool.
Now, know that M1 is a Group III oil - not that it's not good, but Pennzoil Platinum or Quaker State synth are both probably as good and cost less.
I just went to Royal Purple, and I love it.
There's also Amsoil, which has a lot of followers too.
The RP and Amsoil are true Group IV synth.
You'll be fine with any of the above, and don't worry about the one-time Fram there, just don't run it too long.
Scott
Now, know that M1 is a Group III oil - not that it's not good, but Pennzoil Platinum or Quaker State synth are both probably as good and cost less.
I just went to Royal Purple, and I love it.
There's also Amsoil, which has a lot of followers too.
The RP and Amsoil are true Group IV synth.
You'll be fine with any of the above, and don't worry about the one-time Fram there, just don't run it too long.
Scott
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,272
From: Racine, Wisconsin
For those who use K&N....I have three filters used in my tC. My friends agreed to gut them out and see what they look like. Healthy or not? I'll post pictures when I get them done. Plus, I have M1 also and I'll post pics of that too.
My last oil change I saw two tiny clumps come out of the drain. I stressing about it. I think my next change I'm going to switch from Mobil 1 5-20 to Royal Purple 5-30 (since someone on here told me to go with higher grade due to high mileage) and I guess I'll go back to the dealer pick up some OEM filters. Since I'm there should pick up ATF and filter, and spark plugs.
My last oil change I saw two tiny clumps come out of the drain. I stressing about it. I think my next change I'm going to switch from Mobil 1 5-20 to Royal Purple 5-30 (since someone on here told me to go with higher grade due to high mileage) and I guess I'll go back to the dealer pick up some OEM filters. Since I'm there should pick up ATF and filter, and spark plugs.
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 802
From: Mesa, AZ USA
I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to alert readers to an issue I found on my 2009 XB2. It may be an isolated fluke, but perhaps you guys can check this out, specially if you have the 2.4L engine.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=253956
By the way, I like to change the oil and filter early just to make sure that there is no casting sand left over along with other bits of crud in the engine. I found some metal turnings in my 01 triumph bonneville. They were stuck in the cylinder head and I never would have found them, but the head had to be removed for other reasons.
I'm also not liking the new toyota filter. It doesn't have end caps on the filter media as you will see when you click the links. I guess things keep changing (for the cheaper-not necessarily better)
Here's a link to a pureone filter which I cut up after doing a change on our accord. http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...0oil%20change/
It may actually have too many pleats, how does oil get thru the media without a huge pressure drop? A lot of manufacturers are doing this now
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=253956
By the way, I like to change the oil and filter early just to make sure that there is no casting sand left over along with other bits of crud in the engine. I found some metal turnings in my 01 triumph bonneville. They were stuck in the cylinder head and I never would have found them, but the head had to be removed for other reasons.
I'm also not liking the new toyota filter. It doesn't have end caps on the filter media as you will see when you click the links. I guess things keep changing (for the cheaper-not necessarily better)
Here's a link to a pureone filter which I cut up after doing a change on our accord. http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...0oil%20change/
It may actually have too many pleats, how does oil get thru the media without a huge pressure drop? A lot of manufacturers are doing this now
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,457
From: Earth
RE: Larger filter for xB Gen 1 owners
Just a heads up, I have found NO problems running the 90915-YZZF1 instead of the 90915-YZZF2 that the xB comes with. The F1 is almost a half inch longer (hence it contains more filter area and will cool the oil more than the F2) and will obviously accept more oil as well. I have been running the F1 in my box since Jan '07 and have had NO problems what so ever. Notice that By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI, Burst Pressure-PSI, Max Flow, Rate Gasket Diameters and Micron Rating are IDENTICAL in both the F2 and F1.
Cheers!
=============================================================
90915-YZZF2
Part Number: 51394
UPC Number: 765809513945
Principal Application: GM (85-09), Daihatsu (88-92), Infiniti (91-96), Kawasaki Mules, Nissan (91-95), Toyota (80-09), Scion (04-09), Atlas-Copco, Briggs & Stratton, Caterpillar, Cub Cadet, Generac, John Deere, Kubota, New Holland
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 2.977
Outer Diameter Top: 2.685
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Burst Pressure-PSI: 400
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 19
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.475 2.173 0.233
90915-YZZF1
Part Number: 51396
UPC Number: 765809513969
Principal Application: GM Vehicles (99-05), Geo (89-92), Toyota (88-09), Various Ford-New Holland Tractors, Suzuki (96-09), Suzuki Marine Engines
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 3.402
Outer Diameter Top: 2.685
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Burst Pressure-PSI: 400
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 19
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.475 2.173 0.233
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlook...&Submit=Search
Just a heads up, I have found NO problems running the 90915-YZZF1 instead of the 90915-YZZF2 that the xB comes with. The F1 is almost a half inch longer (hence it contains more filter area and will cool the oil more than the F2) and will obviously accept more oil as well. I have been running the F1 in my box since Jan '07 and have had NO problems what so ever. Notice that By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI, Burst Pressure-PSI, Max Flow, Rate Gasket Diameters and Micron Rating are IDENTICAL in both the F2 and F1.
Cheers!
=============================================================
90915-YZZF2
Part Number: 51394
UPC Number: 765809513945
Principal Application: GM (85-09), Daihatsu (88-92), Infiniti (91-96), Kawasaki Mules, Nissan (91-95), Toyota (80-09), Scion (04-09), Atlas-Copco, Briggs & Stratton, Caterpillar, Cub Cadet, Generac, John Deere, Kubota, New Holland
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 2.977
Outer Diameter Top: 2.685
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Burst Pressure-PSI: 400
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 19
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.475 2.173 0.233
90915-YZZF1
Part Number: 51396
UPC Number: 765809513969
Principal Application: GM Vehicles (99-05), Geo (89-92), Toyota (88-09), Various Ford-New Holland Tractors, Suzuki (96-09), Suzuki Marine Engines
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 3.402
Outer Diameter Top: 2.685
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Burst Pressure-PSI: 400
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 19
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.475 2.173 0.233
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlook...&Submit=Search
