this kit is supossedly adjustable from 50- 250 hp
where would it be unsafe?
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...NITROUSSYSTEMS

 

meh... Nitrous not so much.... I cringe when people say NOS!!!

 

Sorry dude, but I thought you had asked a question. By all means go ahead and shoot the hell outta it, but I'd advise carrying a shovel and a broom.

 

building a 300hp n/a car is near pointless. Your talking a 10,000 race engine with poor fuel economy, horrible idle will have to have a perfect tune to run, require 93+ octane etc etc. not worth it in my opinion. I built a 22re (toyota truck motor) that made over 250hp na (was 125hp stock) and it cost me over $8,000 idled like a bucking bronco got 8mpg and needed methanlo to make anymore hp. i then fed it a 75 shot and had some serious n/a power but it was useless on the road, and very expensive.

just turbo or run a 50 wet shot of nitrous

 

Light on fire, heh heh, tha's funny.

Like other's have said, yes it is possible to hit 300 HP N/A but it's going to cost a whole lot of money and be a whole lot of work. Also, I'm not entirely sure that a 300HP N/A tC is going to be a very capable DD.

 

smokeydog: i did ask a question and greatly appreciate everyone insight, what i did not ask for was a movie review and i just dont want this post to go on and on about F&F
REDWAr: im thinking nitrous cause its way cheaper....but how is a 50 shot on reliability? safety to engine and my car and myself? i would be looking at a stock engine with a 50 shot= 210hp + cai+ pulleys+headers and full exhaust = around 250hp? for $2,500-$3,000....

 

well a 50 shot on the stock engine is more like 190 to the wheels, pulleys exhaust headers intake s-pipe will prolly put you around 215? hard to say. As far as reliability you have to get a good nitrous system. I dont just mean a bottle and a nozzle and a switch. You need a throttle switch so you dont run it at oart throttle, a window switch so you dont run it at too low of an rpm or well into the limiter a bottle heater to provide constant pressure, pressure guages to monitor fuel and no2 pressure, and id go with a wet kit for the most safety(sprays fuel too). And remember that shot cant be modulated for wheelspin and is on/off and wont last forever. The price of nitrous is tempting until you add up all the other stuff that is needed to make it worthwhile imo. Honestly i dont think you'll be too far into the 200's unless you run a 75 shot and then im a little worried about the stock ignition timing, Your talking about power levels that require custom tuning so factor in an emanage.
Just boost the damn thing.
oh and if you ever get a strange erratic idle after squeezing, its cuz you just burned a valve.

 

thankyou http://www.compperformancegroupstore...NITROUSSYSTEMS ......what do you think?

 

oh and one more question....why cant you run nitrous with a turbo?

 

impressed, but dont squeeze too much, i would run a 50 personally. You can run nitrous on a turbo just not a practical idea. Just tune it for more boost. It will run better and make more usable power. Unless that is of course your spraying the nitrous on the intercooler to cool down air intake temps to prevent detonation/pinging/spark knock, now thats a good idea.

 

bump

 

what happens if i burn a valve how hard/expensive is it to fix?

 

alot you need to pull the motor apart, it was just a worst case thing, my friend did it with a100 dry shot on two honda 1.6l that were stock, dont worry you should be more than fine with a 50 shot and that kit.

 

does it matter how many times i spray(in a night)? or is it okay as long as i stay at a 50 shot?

 

hey man, i've had a lot of experience with no2, a 50 shot is fine with the tC. you can spray a lot, just don't spray for more than 15 sec at a time. also i would wait a few minutes in between spray runs.

 

how many sprays should i get out of a 10lb bottle?

 

what time/ gear would be the best time to spray? i heard that you could spray at the wrong time and since we dont have a limited slip i could get wheel spin in one wheel and go sideways....

 

nitrous isn't forced induction. its 'alternative induction'.

but seriously. FI refers to compressing air and cramming it into the cylinders. In no way does nitrous do that.

i'm planning for around 200whp na when alls said and done. yeah i would "like to" have a 300 hp na car. but it wouldn't be the tc.

 

i thought nitrous did cram oxygen into the cylinders, the gas seperates when it gets hot and the O's start burning like crazy...

 

nitrous does not compress the air. it is simply an additive that provides more available oxygen particles/atoms/whatever and lowers IAT.

ie. it doesn't force more air into the cylinder. it makes for a higher oxyen content in the volume of air that is currently being drawn into the cylinder.

you may get a "ram air" effect if your intake system is designed in a way that when you shoot a dry nitrous shot it flows straight into the throttle body/intake manifold/cylinders.... but that effect would be minimal at best. and as everyone knows, ram air (increasing velocity of the air) is not the same as compressing air in forced induction.

eg. the psi at the manifold is the same for NA and NA+n20. nitrous does not increase psi.

ps. Pirelli