Jan06xB

Add some injector cleaner - may take half a tank of gas before it cleans your injectors to run smooth again. Avoid pumping the gas pedal and check for raw gas smell in your exhost which could indicate a spark problem. Spark plug check would be the next step.

jj010

More than likely was probably power shifting when it happen and blew the engine. Power shifting is keeping the gas slighty pressed during shift changes, maybe that happen lol!

FIREDOG

go toyota for awsome service

engifineer

Yes. The "lumpy feeling" sounds like the engine is stumbling due to dropping the rpm too low. Doesnt sound like he is describing a noise such as a knock. He says it also happens sitting in neutral which would indicate that the rpm is suddenly dropping causing it to shudder a bit. This will happen every so often normally. If it happens a lot then it is something to check. Also, if it happens in nuetral when the AC is on, it could just be the shock load of the compressor dropping rpm for a split second.

When taking off, he is either not giving it enough gas or the car has a running problem.

I cant imagine it being dirty injectors this soon. And if it were it would run poorly most of the time, especially when getting on it harder. If you were to use an injector cleaner, find some BG44K. As far as I am concerned, it is the only true "cleaner" for the fuel system. Some of the others may help keep it clean, but do little to nothing to clean deposits that are already there. But again, I dont think this is the issue.

If it were plugs, it would also do worse under heavy load. And it would also be due to a bad fuel mixture (which doenst sound like the case) or simply a bad plug right of fthe bat. Iridium plugs have very long lifespans.

As far as higher rpm when cold, every car does that. Idle is set higher when the engine is cold and will drop once it warms up.

One other thing is that when the engine is not running on a fuel injected car, pumping the pedal does nothing. You can pump it all day long. The injectors wont fire and you wont flood the car.

farfednugen

thank you i think you understand, however, when i turn the AC on (since it ups the RPM) it goes away, no its not the spark plugs, but my friend did pose the possibility that it could have somethign to do wiht my fuel filter, maybe i have a faulty one, cause at high rpms (higher than idle) there is absolutely no problem and as far as the dropping the clutch and stalling argument, im sorry but thats jut not the case, like i said it can be in neutral, clutch pedal not depressed, and the RPM drops below idle, like i said earlier, i appreciate you guys throwing that out there as a possibility, and draxcaliber, it would be when im comming off the clutch when the clutch is engaging, not when the pedal is being depressed if that was the issue (if thats what you meant by clutching in) but its not a lurching issue or a rabbit start like my cars going to stall, but like i said it only happens like every blue moon so i dunno, i guess ill get it checked out next time im due for service...thanks again

farfednugen

oh and the cold engine start thing, i know thats not really an issue, i just wish our engines were better at compensating, my dads G35 barely raises idle when started, nothing like my tC, but then again its a different car, but its whatever i dont really care in the end i know its just a normal thing

engifineer

That part will vary from car to car, but my tC as well as my 4Runner idle at around 1200 rpm I believe when cold. I havent really looked close or paid attention that much, but I believe that is close. My saturn idles at around 1500 for the first few minutes of a cold start. Well... it was 3000 before I did some troubleshooting and replaced the Idle Air Control Solenoid :D

farfednugen

cool, thanks again for all the info

Jan06xB

When I say pumping the gas pedal I mean throwing revs by stabbing it quick - the fuel injection system likes slow pedal movements. As far as the injectors they usually don't vaporize well at really short pulse width like under really light loads I.E. like at idle so cleaning them will help. The spark at low rpm can get a poor air/fuel mixture and can make it harder to ignite which can show up as a stumble. This is where a little H2 injection sometimes helps to better ignite the small air/fuel charge at low speed light loads. The other thing to remember is that at LOW RPM even a slight throttle opening will result in very low intake manifold vacuum and that means lots of air/fuel charge enters the cylinder - any puddles of fuel from a faulty or dirty injector will then get a uneven air/fuel mixture again making a stumble.
As far as the cold idle being so high that is usually to increase the combustion heat and exhost heat to warm up the cat quicker thus reducing the emissions. With my xB it gets up to 1500-1800 RPM because my engine is so loose from the synlube. Once it warms up however it really drops down and barely puffs out any exhost from teh tailpipe.

RyanK

You're not driving a spirit, or a ghost. You're driving a mechanical vehicle that without a defect, operation beyond it's capabilities, or an alien variable will not blow up. If you're fluids are stable, and you're not driving like a dummy, it won't do that.
Something happened. Maybe it was crankwalk???
Speaking of dummies, the dealership better honor the warranty. No records necessary.
http://www.dummies.com/WileyCDA/Dumm...e/id-2669.html

EnewTEEL

I have the sdame thing farfednugen has. At least I notice it too. It's just the idle not being as smooth as it could be. I guess you could describe it as a tiny backfire. The way it feels from the inside.

Jan06xB

hummm my runs very smooth - next warm day I will video the engine at idle when it is warmed up and post it here. I still say to run some injector cleaner in the gas ans see what happens - this gasahol is pretty nasty stuff.