I have a 2006 1 Gen tC with 75k miles bought 2nd hand as a flood car. It started a week ago when all of sudden I lost pressure to my clutch pedal. I pulled over and idled it and pulled the hood and the clutch was burning. My clutch pressure came back
a little but I couldn't change gears so I put it in gear with the car off and drove home by clutchless shifting just a few miles. My symptoms are clutch squealing loudly and some smoking with the pedal engaged, unable to put it in gear, and soft pedal.
So I ordered an Exedy OEM master cylinder and replaced that and bled the clutch. The problem persisted so I bought an O' Reilly's slave cylinder as well and replaced that and bled the clutch again.

Even after bleeding, the clutch pedal doesn't engage fully to allow me to change gears and it doesn't return to me fully. So now I am at the point where I'll check the hydraulics one more time before I have to crack open the trans and pull the clutch.
Do you think I may have done the the hydraulics wrong since the pedal doesn't return still? I should be able to shift if the hydraulics are working right? So maybe the pressure plate is bad? And the squeal is the throw out bearing correct?

What do y'all think. What else should I check?

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Is the clutch cable adjustable at all? Might just need to be adjusted.

 

Im not sure, where would the clutch cable be connected to..

 

I'm not experienced enough to provide expert guidance but I hope you figure it out. Sounds like air in the system or a leak in the line somewhere. With the car off I would pump the clutch many times; check for leaking hydraulic fluid.

 

Since the clutch is hydraulic it would most likely just be the at the pedal. That would really only effect the clutch pedal return height though.

You're absolutely sure there is no air in the clutch line? They are hard to bleed.

If it's dragging and smoking it could be that an internal clutch component has failed or that the clutch disk is slipping - such as a broken spring, etc.

Can you still drive it? Any issues inconsistent rpm's, etc?

 

If you have correctly bled the system and none of the new parts are faulty, it is probably internal. Either the pressure plate fingers have broken off, the pressure plate surface itself is damaged, the clutch has broken/cracked, or the transmission fork (Throwout bearing fork) is damaged/bent. I would try to bleed the system again before removing the transmission.

Also, the clutch is self-adjusting as it is hydraulic and the only real adjustment it has is the play in the pedal before the clutch master cylinder is engaged.

Did the old slave and clutch master cylinder have any signs of failure such as leaking fluid? Can you go through the gears when the engine is off?

 

I tried bleeding it one more time with friends. The old slave and master didn't seem to be faulty at all. I wasn't leaking any fluid. I can also go through gears when the car is off and I was able to clutchless shift so i don't believe the trans is at fault. Confirmed that its internal at this point and I'm mentally preparing to pull my trans... What you're saying makes sense and that's what I was thinking as well... A clutch kit will usually come with a pressure plate TOB and a friction plate. Will I need to buy a new fork if its bad?

 

If the fork is bad/damaged, then yes you will have to purchase a new one. A new clutch release fork is about $30-$50 depending on where you get it if you find your fork is damaged.

If you purchase a clutch kit, the OEM manufacture is Aisin (If you wanted to know), and is the clutch kit I used when I did my clutch about 2 months ago. Part# is CKT-044 for 05-06

 

When you install a new clutch go ahead and replace the slave cylinder behind the driver side strut as they tend to need a longer rod by about 3/8 inch ànd it will solve your shifting problems because the old one isn't long enough to engage the clutch properly and it'll keep popping outta gear and eventually stop going into any gear as I found out the hard way and decided to change out that rod that hooks onto your clutch pedal and it solved everything after new clutch tranny and VCS and traction control issues that just made me wanna pull my hair out after 7k in parts and all new suspension and drive acles and tires. Bu the way Toyota you suck for not acknowledging that you put out a lemon in the 2011 with sealed bearings no one else would ever use in a manual tranny and then not back that warranty as a 100% fail rate in them was sustained. You lost a customer in me and I decided to do a 400 small block swap in your TC with Ford rear end and 400 turbo trans and run a 9 flat naturally aspirated and 91 octane pump gas. Had 3k in it all and your pos tranny was 3k alone. Junk is what you peddles in the 2nd gen that looked good but was all lemon but the stereo. Shameful to say the least and I hope the engineer committed harry Kerry for dishonoring your brand and some heads need to role to ever get me back as a customer