Hey everyone I am posting up in regards to my sister 05. She spun a rod bearing 3 months ago at 90k miles in my opinion due to the local quicklube place leaving the fill cap undone and her car losing a good amount of oil over a couple week period. Fast forward we had the motor sent out. We had a new crank put in, replaced a rod and had oversized pistons installed along with all timing, water pump, oil pump components etc. Spent 2 days getting the car buttoned back up and the car will not start. It is getting spark nd fuel but will not fire. Not even the least bit. We purchased an OBDII scanner and the codes are pending so we are unable to see what is going on. The spark plugs are NGK iridiums from advanced but I am not sure of the number off the top of my head nor what they were gapped in when my father threw them in. I am at a loss right now and am looking for some insight before we tow it to the dealer. Thank you.

 

spark and fuel but not fire? check your keys and see if the transponder chip is in. make sure keys are all right. not sure if a new engine and electricals trigger a re-programming of the keys by dealership. just my 2 cents in these types of cases.

 

also make sure the MAF sensor is in correctly, that may cause it to not start up since it cant read the air coming in. probably already installed correctly but you never know.. just double and triple check every little thing to make sure its not something simple that could of been corrected by you guys before hauling it to the dealer..

 

Still no luck. Double checked most everything but still a no go.

 

Check to make sure timing was done correctly and if it was check to make sure the cam sensor is ok I know a lot of ppl mistake the symbols on the cams when aligning the timing. And also with the cam sensor I know a lot of ppl have issues when they change cams the sensor doesn't have the right clearence causing it not to start

 

The cams are the stock cams so I take it the cam sensor should have the proper clearances. Are there any how to threads on timing. The motor was built and timed by some guys out of cleveland who apparently had 0 experience with the motor. We had no idea until we got it back that it was their first TC motor or we would have went a different route. We can check the timing if there is a guide floating around here somewhere.

 

Prob timed the exhaust cam wrong. its easy to do if you arent familiar with the 2AZ. There are 3 marks on the exhaust cam gear that look like timing marks, but only one of them actually is. If you pull the valve cover and set the crank to 0deg (may have to rotate twice depending on what stroke the engine is on) the cams should align with the timing marks on the first cam cap. The exhaust cam should be aligned with the unlabeled hash mark on the gear, not the mark "E" or "I".

 

^^^ that would be my guess...timing is off.