This thread has led to nothing but drama. This just goes to show you that is you dont know what you're doing, get a professional to do it.

 

If you have the clutch "depressed" with this wedge that keeps it from starting, what's the point of the remote start? I'm very concerned about launching my car on accident when I get it, and this intrigues me.

And does the clutch bypass really disable cruise control? I use it every day!

 

I, for one, am very afraid after reading this thread. This has the potential to end very badly. I don't care how careful you are going to be,
all it will take is one time of forgetting to putting your car in Neutral and then. All just so your car won't be hot when you get in.

I just hope nobody on my block is so lazy that they ever try this. I hope that anyone who does this (a.) doesn't park right behind anyone else and (b.) doesn't have any small children that live by them.

I used to live in SoCal where it could get up to 110 degrees consistently in the summer but I would never dream of doing this.

Good luck to anyone that tries this. Just make sure to keep your proof of insurance handy.

___

 

i have had this on every car ive had, 6 cars, all manual, and im the only person that ever drives my car.

plus now i have my turbo timer so my car has to be in neutral everytime i turn it off

 

Does your cruise control work in your tC? I'm going to be having a Viper 571XV system installed in two weeks, provided that it does not disable cruise control, which I am afraid it does.

 

That is not true. I bypassed my switch for another reason, and I still have cruise control...

 

why would it cancel cruise control? it works in mine

 

To clear up any confusion about a bypassed clutch switch rendering the cruise control system useless, I would say that information is about 50% true. The fact is that there are 2 clutch switches in the manual tC, one for the starting circuit and one for the cruise control circuit. The clutch switch for the cruise control(CC) is mounted high and deep into the dash in front of the clutch pedal armature. This switch is normally held down or depressed when the clutch pedal is in the engaged/released position. The clutch switch for the starter(ST) is mounted low on the floorboard behind the clutch pedal armature. This switch is normally released when the actual clutch is engaged. So, if the CC clutch switch was bypassed instead of the ST clutch switch, then it would render the CC useless. The guy that debated his opinion about the CC being affected simply made an honest mistake suggesting the use of the wrong clutch switch to be bypassed. The correct clutch switch to be bypassed is easily seen under the dash on the floorboard behind the clutch pedal pivot point.

The starter clutch switch "depressed" with my wedging block doesn't keep it from starting. It's the other way around. Again, you're thinking of the mechanisms of a cruise control clutch switch. As I explained it above, the starting circuit is complete
when the starter clutch switch is depressed with either a foreign object obstructed or the clutch pedal itself is in the disengaged position. Switch is released and the starting circuit is in the "open circuit" state, thus an incomplete circuit.

By the way, I'm not suggesting to anyone to do what I'm doing. I would not recommend it because it may be illegal to have in manuals in some states. I merely was sharing what I've done with my setup. I understand the responsibilities of having it installed and I'm aware of
the potential hazard conditions. That's why I chose not to have my clutch switch permanently bypassed. I'm just saying from experience that I haven't had any serious problems with what I've been doing since the first day I had my remote starter installed. It's safe with me. K.O.W

____




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Ohhh, I got it now. Car still thinks it's pressed in because of the wedge. I thought I read you saying that depressing the switch would stop the remote start, so I took it for truth instead of re-reading, or using common sense.

 

actually its the other way around starter switch is high and deep, CC switch is low, I know, I did my alarm, tried the first switch that i found, the lower one, and no go.

I had my whole dash out to do this though so i found the other switch real easy, its up top!

 

That's doesn't make any sense whatsoever. Why would a car manufacture mount the CC clutch switch low on the floorboard behind the clutch pedal. Think about the clutch pedal position and its action. If you were to activate the CC clutch switch with it mounted low on the floorboard, then you're basically disengaging the clutch with the clutch pedal to the floor to depress the switch. What's the point of operating the cruise control system with the clutch pedal to the floor and the actual clutch within the tranny is in the disengage state. The car is cruising nowhere under that condition. Same thing with the ST clutch switch. If it's mounted high and buried into the dash in front of the clutch pedal, then you're basically starting the engine with the clutch pedal in the engaged/release position.

Anyone with a stick shift can verify this by simply engaging the e-brake, then move the shifter to neutral, and then try cranking over the engine at the ign. switch. It should not crank under this condition. Now reach under the dash and find the clutch switch on the floorboard behind the clutch pedal and directly press the switch and hold it down by hand. At the same time while holding the clutch switch, turn the ign. switch to "start". The engine should crank over. This is why my wedging block that I use to setup the remote starter system works. It holds the starter clutch switch low on the floorboard. The location of these CC & ST clutch switch is pretty universal among other car manufacture.

 

you want me to show a video? thats how it is, i bypassed the first switch with my remote start and it didnt work, so i bypassed the next one and it works, and so does CC

 

I'm not an idiot that doesn't know his stuff, I've taken the tC apart down to just the frame left and put it back together, I know all about the tC.

__________________

 

Maybe you guys are thinking of the same switches, just different wording, or a different interpretation of each other's words. Chilllll.

I for one, know one thing: if Best Buy doesn't install mine, there is no warranty, so if they f*ck up, there will be hell to pay.

 

Relax my friend.
I'm not trying to attack on your level of intellect and never said that you're an idiot. Though, it seems you tend to brag about your background and knowledge from your previous posts in other threads like this one. But seriously, I simply replied back to elaborate against your statement because, the way you said it, it didn't seem logical to have the CC & ST clutch switch setup that way around the clutch pedal from the manufacture.





I really don't need to see a video demonstration for you to prove to me of what you've done to bypass the clutch switch. As I stated in my last paragraph from my last post above, people with manual tCs can demonstrate and verify the point I'm trying to get across. That verification process is my proof to anyone with a manual tC, including you. When you press and hold that switch low on the floorboard and start your engine, there's a reaction. And when you release that switch and crank your engine, there's no reaction. If that action has that kind of result from the starter, then that switch low on the floorboard behind the clutch pedal has got to be the starter clutch switch.

Additionally, I have a 2005 tC wiring diagram book in front of me as I type this and it shows the exact locations of these clutch switches. So, technically, my descriptive write up is as accurate as this book says.

Need I say anymore on this.



Anyway, I'm at work as I'm typing this. I may follow up later tonight.




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oh ____ts I forgot about that one, i just went out and looked at my salvaged tC.

What I did is I pulled the switch wire up to the top of the dash, bypassed it and zip tied it to the top
so it wouldn't be in my way and I got the impression that the switch was up there to.

My bad, but I'll still take personal field experience over a book!!

__________________

 

my bad!!

 

Ummm..........Yeah, right!




So you really are an idiot. It's either that or you're intentionally challenging my intellect with all these lies and BS, then decided to back down with that last statement. You know, I deal with people like you every other day at work. You do nothing but wasted my time with the mockery and trying to make a minority look stupid. A while ago, you said you completely removed the entire dashboard to get at the clutch switch, which you say is on top. I couldn't believe someone telling me this because it's common sense for any car guy/gal to know that the clutch pedal is under the dash. Right at that point, I knew what you were up to. You were out to make yourself look good on the forum by bragging and, at the same time, bringing me down with your nonsense BS. I also think you tried doing the same thing with your interactions with SCIONIZER earlier in this thread.

According to your earlier quote w/ SCIONIZER:


Oil pressure sensor
C'mon man. You can't be talking about your "personal field experience" with nonsense statements like that. After all this, your apology isn't golden in my book.

So it all comes down to me telling you this:

"QUIT TALKING OUT OF YOUR A$$."




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ooohhh im bashing on a minority now, i friggin hate it when people call on their race to pull out a guilt factor, i didnt pull the whole dash just to get the switch, i pulled it to mount the alarm right under the dash on top of all the wires.

and its easier to tap into all the wires when there is no dash in the way!

i forgot the switch fool, calm your **** down stupid minority, you brought it on your self, i said nothing about minority, i never even knew what race you where till i looked at your profile a second ago

 

OK, I'll give you that about me making that "minority" statement. I'll take that back. But, my whole interaction with you and your statements just don't add up, which led me to believe that you were out to shut me up on this topic. I laid down my hard reasonable facts and you continued to debate against it until the moment I told you that I had a wiring diagram booklet as reference. Guess what? I never had a wiring diagram book in front of me. I figured, if you're lying to me, then I'll throw it back at you to see what you'll say next. Sure enough, it's exactly the direction I expected you to take. You never supported your point of view in the dispute other than you saying, "I can show you a video of where I found the ST switch." That's why I replied like I did after your nonsense statement.


For instance, in this statement, you're saying you found the starter clutch switch mounted high and deep into the dash. As the whole context of that statement, you're saying you found it like that from the vehicle manufacture's setup.



Then, after I told you about the book, you turn around and accept my descriptive write up to be true by admitting you were wrong. You reacted by telling me another thing. You said that you had the ST clutch switch bypassed and had it zip tied high into the dash yourself. A location which is not setup that way from the factory.

To me, that's 2 contradicting statements. When you first get into doing that job with the manufacture setup untouched, how can you say you found the ST clutch switch that you zip tied yourself high into the dash. At that point, it has already been established that you found the switch.

Just doesn't add up. Which leads to my question to you.
Are you an actual true idiot or are you imposing as a lying idiot when you decided to back down your challenge to me?

Someone already told you this earlier in the thread so I'll tell you again.
"Next time you post your ideas, get your facts straight first."

Nuff said, I'm through with you.



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