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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 05:43 AM
  #21  
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is this the same block you split the crank in half in........just rebuilt........cause if it is did you have the block journals machined so the new bearings will fit tight or just put new ones in with spun bearing journals,thi scould lead to huge issues.......just trying to help,
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BZinn1
is this the same block you split the crank in half in........just rebuilt........cause if it is did you have the block journals machined so the new bearings will fit tight or just put new ones in with spun bearing journals,thi scould lead to huge issues.......just trying to help,

thanks but i ended up getting a new motor and this is the issue with this motor
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 07:28 PM
  #23  
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So i check the pan its something on the top of the motor i think its a vavle or lifter because of the fact that i did a oil flush and the noise went away but a high rpms it comes back and sounds like something slapping around also it can hear it next to the top raidator hose
Old Apr 4, 2009 | 03:18 AM
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They are solid cams. They are gonna make some noise no matter what. And they get clattery at high rpm.
Old Apr 4, 2009 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Windu
They are solid cams. They are gonna make some noise no matter what. And they get clattery at high rpm.
no this sound was not there before.... i but everything back together and now the car wont start it will turn over but its not getting spark i dont think or the wire harness is bad..
Old Apr 4, 2009 | 04:53 PM
  #26  
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There is no reason to think the wiring harness is bad. You are 100 times more likely to have blown a fuse than to actually damage the harness unless you physically pinched a wire somehow.

How did you determine there was no spark? The engine not firing can mean there is no fuel, no spark or the timing is way off. Are you sure you timed the cams correctly when you put them back in?

Like we mentioned before, if you physically saw metal in the oil pan, you at minimum need part of your engine rebuilt, at worst need a full rebuild since it ran with metal shavings traveling through the system. You also cant assume you know the knock came from the top end. Sound travels in an engine block and can trick you. Seeing metal shavings means you need to have the pan pulled and the bottom end inspected for play in the bearings.

I think you also said mentioned that you saw pieces of metal missing on the top end? IF so, the top ends needs completely rebuilt. If metal is missing, it is due to no oil pressure, meaning the damage will only progress over time.

And you need to find out where your oil went no matter what before that engine is ever started again.

Again, no offense meant, but you need to have someone that knows what they are doing help you with this. It is great to want to fix it on your own, but it sounds like you really dont know exactly how to get all this sorted out and you run the risk of causing more damage than is already there.
Old Apr 4, 2009 | 07:09 PM
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It honesty sounds like you F'ed up a valve. The valve either stuck and was hit by the piston mushrooming the valve, and it will throw shavings up into the top of the head. The way to check is to to a leak down compression test. See if your cylinders will hold pressure. When you get it to hold pressure see if you can hear air leaking from the exhaust, then an exhaust valve is bad, if you hear air leaking from the intake, an intake valve is bad.
Old Apr 4, 2009 | 08:39 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by beandip007
It honesty sounds like you F'ed up a valve. The valve either stuck and was hit by the piston mushrooming the valve, and it will throw shavings up into the top of the head. The way to check is to to a leak down compression test. See if your cylinders will hold pressure. When you get it to hold pressure see if you can hear air leaking from the exhaust, then an exhaust valve is bad, if you hear air leaking from the intake, an intake valve is bad.

i did that and all the valves are fine. but i was told if the cams was toque down to much then it will knock and slap around due to the pressure of the cams and the cams not being in sync
Old Apr 4, 2009 | 09:19 PM
  #29  
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Over tightening the cams can deform the caps and cause the cams to tie up. And this will cost you a new head. Stop f-ing around and get it looked at.
Old Apr 4, 2009 | 10:34 PM
  #30  
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Dude I am sorry but you just dont get, you need to get that looked at by someone who knows what they are doing. All you are doing is creating more problems which in turn is not going to save you money.
Old Apr 4, 2009 | 11:08 PM
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x100 on taking it to a pro to look at. Everyone here is trying to offer you the best advice they can but you're ignoring it completely. You have already tried a couple o the more basic troubleshoots people have to offer and the problem is apparently still present.

suck it up and take it a pro!
Old Apr 6, 2009 | 02:23 PM
  #32  
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Thanks guys! taking it to dealer to dealer

Today!

Last edited by SquallLHeart; Aug 13, 2009 at 05:27 PM.
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