Originally Posted by ecko04

You are once again completely WRONG!!

His numbers are on a DYNOJET which do not have the ability to have a load added to it, they are just some inflate your ego dyno's and are not representative of real world numbers. I told you this in a message about how your complete disregard for the type of dyno is going to lead you to think you have a car capable of having xxx amount of whp when in reality you do not.

If you want to feel like your car is the fastest tC out there put it on a Dynojet and they'll give you nice numbers that will make you feel warm and fuzzy inside.

You must remember, Dyno's regardless of the type are tuning tools, and are in no means meant to tell people how fast their car is. Now which one is more "real world" is a totally different question. I like to explain it like this..... If you drive your car in a situation in which you have no mass and you're in a vacuum, so basically if you do intergalactic racing in space, use a DynoJet. If your car sees gravity, and has an aerodynamic coefficient, and you race on a planet called Earth, then use a Mustang Dyno.


Lethal Injection Motorsports Mustang Dyno

My 07' tC

Magnaflow Catback Exhaust (NOTICE CAT-BACK NOT AXLE-BACK)
NST Pulley Set
Injen CAI
Strup 4-1 Header
Invidia S-pipe
DME front strut bar
TRD shocks and springs

If i'm not mistaken that's every bolt-on possible

ALL MOTOR w/ BOLT ONS

Mustang Dyno - 145hp/141tq

w/ Nitrous 75 shot wet

Mustang Dyno - 200hp/222tq

That's with a full 1200 PSI bottle setup for 75 shot, purged and ready to fire.



That's on a real dyno that can have a load added to it.

I took it to a Dynojet the all motor dyno would be somewhere near 175whp and the nitrous dyno would be near 230whp but those are not realistic numbers.

Once again monster torque curve, this is what you gain from nitrous, not whp. With nitrous you're looking for the jolt that comes with rods and pistons suddenly slamming that would propel you so you don't need to rely as much on the hp to keep you ahead.

You inject nitrous a certain distance away from the MAF as not to throw it off and not too close to the throttle body. You can tell if you have this right or not because nitrous will arrive to the motor much quicker than the accompanying fuel and it will bog the motor until the fuel arrives then you'll feel the jolt.

I dealt with nitrous for a while so you can't tell me something that just isn't remotely true. Nitrous is not some type of miracle sauce; you need to be aware that the tC's internals are not made for the type of jolting nitrous does and maxes the stock injectors at anything over a 75 shot.

And here is my install, as stealth as possible, the only dead give away was the bottle but I eventually got a blanket, heater, etc. for the bottle so it just looked like a black mini-duffel bag.

Not to mention the numerous safety precautions that you need to have in place, you don't just go out spraying, bad things can happen.

Originally Posted by Mrsanchez925

u will easily make over 220 if u turbo it.

Ur motor is good up to 400whp..

but to be on the safe side i would go above 350 lol

Originally Posted by ecko04

LOL I don't go above 300 and that's running slightly on the rich side. I guess I play it super safe.

Originally Posted by CityWingz

yeah. i would like to go turbo, honestly. But right now im sitting at 30k miles and i still have 20k to go till my warranty ends, i think.

Lol yeah i knew i couldn't get far without a s/c but i guess my question was as far as internals and such whats the best way to get some more horsies.

gotta be more specific next time i guess :-)