View Poll Results: Do you think 200 hp n/a is doable with these mods
Voters: 37. You may not vote on this poll
REALISTIC 200 HP N/A, here's how it CAN be done
07-19-2009, 01:07 AM
#21
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And no im not getting NOS or a turbo kit. I'm getting the TRD sc from TRDSparks.com, getting the better bearings, shaft, and BPV before I even get it installed, running the NST 9.5 pulley, and calling it a day. It's a FWD compact and Im only shooting for about 230 hp which several ppl have hit with this setup.
I'm just seeing how much hp i can hit on the way FOR FUN, which means no N/A cams, standalone AEM EMS, or any of that jazz. I'll wait until I get my Lexus IS-F in about 2-3 years before I start going apesh*t and trying to hit 600hp
I'm just seeing how much hp i can hit on the way FOR FUN, which means no N/A cams, standalone AEM EMS, or any of that jazz. I'll wait until I get my Lexus IS-F in about 2-3 years before I start going apesh*t and trying to hit 600hp
07-19-2009, 01:55 AM
#24
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Okay first I'd like to say I'm no guru just someone with too much time spent digging up and reading way too many old posts.
The dc sports header is about as cheap as headers come for the Tc. Not that price equates performace but there are better options if you are persueing NA performance. 4-1 vs 4-2-1 designs have thier advantages and disadvantages. 4-2-1 more useable mid range, 4-1 having more topend. The zazfe in its inherit design is not a topend monster, where it shines amongst other 4cyl engines is its low end torque and broad powerband. Another issue with the dc sports header is they drone like a **** and will sound like crap. Granted most header/exh combos drone some just do it worse.
On the decendant intake manifolds I am not aware of the differences between the race and street versions. Wait nvm just looked it up... I gotta say it again man, you really gotta do some reading on just the basics before you go nuts. The site clearly states the difference. The street version uses the stock drive by wire throttle body, the race uses thier 90mm cable activated TB. The reason I suggested the weapon-r one is due to the runner length, longer runners offer more midrange or in our case useable power. They are geared for N/a setups. The decendant one with its short runners is just ment to flow as much as possible without air velocity or other factors taken into consideration. Maybe if we had 9,800rpm rev limits it'd work out but in our cars no way. Those types of intake manifolds are great for turbo'd or supercharged egines though because the air is crammed in anyways. Less restriction the better. In regaurds to the knocking on the weapon-r intake manifold, alls I have to say is once you start getting this deep into part swapping don't think its going to be all bolt on easiness. Half the people complaining were doing so because it needed dyno time. Idiots if you ask me, people ask for something when they dont know what they are truely asking for.
If you are getting the supercharger don't try to break the 200hp mark. Its not going to be easy NA. You are going to have to do things that will adversly affect your ride once the supercharger is on. And you will have parts that you have to strip off and resell.
Get the supercharger. Get it rebuilt with better bearings and seals because from the factory it is a POS. Get the shaft balanced too while your at it. Then slap it on with a 12psi pulley and a meth kit or custom intercooler. A header, injectors, fi/c, supercharger intake, and some dyno time are all the mods you will need. That is besides the driver mod and a lsd with some sticky tires to keep the power down.
Right now pick NA or FI, save yourself some headaches.
The dc sports header is about as cheap as headers come for the Tc. Not that price equates performace but there are better options if you are persueing NA performance. 4-1 vs 4-2-1 designs have thier advantages and disadvantages. 4-2-1 more useable mid range, 4-1 having more topend. The zazfe in its inherit design is not a topend monster, where it shines amongst other 4cyl engines is its low end torque and broad powerband. Another issue with the dc sports header is they drone like a **** and will sound like crap. Granted most header/exh combos drone some just do it worse.
On the decendant intake manifolds I am not aware of the differences between the race and street versions. Wait nvm just looked it up... I gotta say it again man, you really gotta do some reading on just the basics before you go nuts. The site clearly states the difference. The street version uses the stock drive by wire throttle body, the race uses thier 90mm cable activated TB. The reason I suggested the weapon-r one is due to the runner length, longer runners offer more midrange or in our case useable power. They are geared for N/a setups. The decendant one with its short runners is just ment to flow as much as possible without air velocity or other factors taken into consideration. Maybe if we had 9,800rpm rev limits it'd work out but in our cars no way. Those types of intake manifolds are great for turbo'd or supercharged egines though because the air is crammed in anyways. Less restriction the better. In regaurds to the knocking on the weapon-r intake manifold, alls I have to say is once you start getting this deep into part swapping don't think its going to be all bolt on easiness. Half the people complaining were doing so because it needed dyno time. Idiots if you ask me, people ask for something when they dont know what they are truely asking for.
If you are getting the supercharger don't try to break the 200hp mark. Its not going to be easy NA. You are going to have to do things that will adversly affect your ride once the supercharger is on. And you will have parts that you have to strip off and resell.
Get the supercharger. Get it rebuilt with better bearings and seals because from the factory it is a POS. Get the shaft balanced too while your at it. Then slap it on with a 12psi pulley and a meth kit or custom intercooler. A header, injectors, fi/c, supercharger intake, and some dyno time are all the mods you will need. That is besides the driver mod and a lsd with some sticky tires to keep the power down.
Right now pick NA or FI, save yourself some headaches.
07-19-2009, 05:15 AM
#25
First off TRDsparks no longer sales the TRD supercharger..no one does..it is DISCONTINUED.
Oh and the reason why you don't want to get the ETD AND the motor mounts is because the motor mounts will do the job of the etd X1000 better so putting the etd won't add anything other than something else to sparkle when you pop the hood.
Oh and the reason why you don't want to get the ETD AND the motor mounts is because the motor mounts will do the job of the etd X1000 better so putting the etd won't add anything other than something else to sparkle when you pop the hood.
07-19-2009, 05:53 AM
#26
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Originally Posted by 1vicissitude
^^^lol yeah... spraying nitrous oxide isn't forced induction at all. It doesn't force more oxygen in than atmospheric air. It just blows up in the cylinders right? Man that stuff is flamable
to my knowledge NOx is in the same field because it forces the compression in the cyl to raise due to an added substance rather than achieving a higher comp due to mechanical means.
but what do i know. stupid moderators with no knowledge whatsoever. wtf right? lets vote carbon to be mod.
07-19-2009, 09:44 AM
#28
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NO2 is just has a much more concentrated/denser Oxygen count than atmospheric air. Remember the air we breath is only 21% oxygen...
Nitrogen: 78%
Oxygen: 21%
Carbon Dioxide: 0.03%
Noble Gases (Helium, Argon, Krypton, Neon, Xenon and Radon together make up 0.97%)
Water Vapour (the amount varies)
Nitrous on the other hand is about 36% Oxygen. So now I guess your thinking why not just spray pure 100% liquid oxygen then? Answer is the Nitrogen acts as a stabilizer for the burning reaction. Pure oxygen would result in too wild a combustion, resulting in a blown engine. This is because the nitrogen atoms in the nitrous oxide have a function as well. The nitrogen atoms released have a cooling effect on the combustion temperature. It absorbs the heat and helps carry it away.
Nitrogen: 78%
Oxygen: 21%
Carbon Dioxide: 0.03%
Noble Gases (Helium, Argon, Krypton, Neon, Xenon and Radon together make up 0.97%)
Water Vapour (the amount varies)
Nitrous on the other hand is about 36% Oxygen. So now I guess your thinking why not just spray pure 100% liquid oxygen then? Answer is the Nitrogen acts as a stabilizer for the burning reaction. Pure oxygen would result in too wild a combustion, resulting in a blown engine. This is because the nitrogen atoms in the nitrous oxide have a function as well. The nitrogen atoms released have a cooling effect on the combustion temperature. It absorbs the heat and helps carry it away.
07-19-2009, 02:49 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by 1vicissitude
Okay first I'd like to say I'm no guru just someone with too much time spent digging up and reading way too many old posts.
The dc sports header is about as cheap as headers come for the Tc. Not that price equates performace but there are better options if you are persueing NA performance. 4-1 vs 4-2-1 designs have thier advantages and disadvantages. 4-2-1 more useable mid range, 4-1 having more topend. The zazfe in its inherit design is not a topend monster, where it shines amongst other 4cyl engines is its low end torque and broad powerband. Another issue with the dc sports header is they drone like a **** and will sound like crap. Granted most header/exh combos drone some just do it worse.
On the decendant intake manifolds I am not aware of the differences between the race and street versions. Wait nvm just looked it up... I gotta say it again man, you really gotta do some reading on just the basics before you go nuts. The site clearly states the difference. The street version uses the stock drive by wire throttle body, the race uses thier 90mm cable activated TB. The reason I suggested the weapon-r one is due to the runner length, longer runners offer more midrange or in our case useable power. They are geared for N/a setups. The decendant one with its short runners is just ment to flow as much as possible without air velocity or other factors taken into consideration. Maybe if we had 9,800rpm rev limits it'd work out but in our cars no way. Those types of intake manifolds are great for turbo'd or supercharged egines though because the air is crammed in anyways. Less restriction the better.
The dc sports header is about as cheap as headers come for the Tc. Not that price equates performace but there are better options if you are persueing NA performance. 4-1 vs 4-2-1 designs have thier advantages and disadvantages. 4-2-1 more useable mid range, 4-1 having more topend. The zazfe in its inherit design is not a topend monster, where it shines amongst other 4cyl engines is its low end torque and broad powerband. Another issue with the dc sports header is they drone like a **** and will sound like crap. Granted most header/exh combos drone some just do it worse.
On the decendant intake manifolds I am not aware of the differences between the race and street versions. Wait nvm just looked it up... I gotta say it again man, you really gotta do some reading on just the basics before you go nuts. The site clearly states the difference. The street version uses the stock drive by wire throttle body, the race uses thier 90mm cable activated TB. The reason I suggested the weapon-r one is due to the runner length, longer runners offer more midrange or in our case useable power. They are geared for N/a setups. The decendant one with its short runners is just ment to flow as much as possible without air velocity or other factors taken into consideration. Maybe if we had 9,800rpm rev limits it'd work out but in our cars no way. Those types of intake manifolds are great for turbo'd or supercharged egines though because the air is crammed in anyways. Less restriction the better.
07-19-2009, 03:35 PM
#30
the weapon-r header is actually probably one of the best ones out there for the tC IMO. The ETD they produce is garbage and i can't say much about the intake.
I just remember when there manifold came out it just looked really bad. The welds were all over the place and it just didn't look like a clean piece to begin with.
I just remember when there manifold came out it just looked really bad. The welds were all over the place and it just didn't look like a clean piece to begin with.
08-25-2014, 08:56 PM
#31
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1
Is it possible? Sure... just time and money are needed.
As for the throttle body your only choice is the rx8 throttle body adaptor from black diamond racing. Its $200 now-a-days with no throttle body. They said only two people run it successfully. It needs tunning to operate. If you do decide to go this far I'd recomend instaling the intake manifold and TB at the same time. Get it port matched too while your at it because the rx8 TB is 15mm bigger then the tc one.
As for the throttle body your only choice is the rx8 throttle body adaptor from black diamond racing. Its $200 now-a-days with no throttle body. They said only two people run it successfully. It needs tunning to operate. If you do decide to go this far I'd recomend instaling the intake manifold and TB at the same time. Get it port matched too while your at it because the rx8 TB is 15mm bigger then the tc one.
I just wanted to find out if you have any more info on the throttle body conversion.
I have converted mine and I switched the throttle body power wires, the car starts and idles but it holds idle at 2200 rpm, when I put it in gear the rpm drops but the throttle response is very lazy and almost delayed by a second.
Any info would be appreciated, I know this is a old thread and you replied to this a long time ago
03-11-2020, 11:26 PM
#32
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Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 1
Hello.
I'm running my 2AZ-FE Rear wheel drive through a w57 and 7.5 inch Lexus LSD rear end. Its 180hp at the hubs. Have to think the engine is already making over 200hp to put down 180 at the hubs. Don't really see what all the fuss is about. Where you are going wrong is that you're limited by the front wheel drive layout and buying a bunch of no hoper off the shelf parts that give limited gains and don't really achieve anything meaningful as a set. I've liberated power by making an ITB Manifold, trying 4 different designs and 2 different throttle sizes. I've made custom long 4-2-1 headers and tuned it on a standalone computer. I still run a cat converter. You can never expect to be too far beyond the stock performance with a stock ecu. Its made with emissions in mind, not hp, and all that mods like headers will do is confuse it. You can never expect to have it retune to the appropriate spec after making drastic intake and exhaust changes. There are gains from VWTI adjustment, but those do not have any effect on the peak number since VWTI is off entirely by 5000 rpm. A light flywheel is not great, especially an 11 lb one. I had a 6.5kg flywheel and it was tom light. The initial torque is so great that its brutal on the drive train and the car wants to dart ahead in traffic. I'm now running a 8.5kg unit, and its great. Its actually drivable and doesn't hurt top end performance. Its way better off the line too. If it was me, I'd make a freer inlet and exhaust, and go immediately to a standalone ECU. Retune it entirely. From my experience a stock 2003 2AZ-FE Camry motor revs to 7000 safely and has peak power at 6250rpm with the correct inlet and exhaust combo. My torque peak is just under 5000rpm, and its the same level as the torque at 2250rpm, its super linear, look at the graph!
A lot of the mods described above are just marketing strategies.
_____
Last edited by MR_LUV; 03-12-2020 at 06:56 AM.
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