BlackKnight

there would be other problems if he had a blown head gasket so this would not be the case.

mengsta

Try using BG44k. An even better fuel injector cleaner. Kept all 3 of my past cars smooth as butter.

engifineer

+1 on the 44k. The only type of cleaner I will run through anything I own. Seafoam is really good if you are trying to knock down heavy carbon deposits, but as far as fuel system cleaner I will pick BG all the way.

SuShIxFiSh

iTrader: (1)

so i should jsut check the spark plugs then

mengsta

getting BG44k is even easier then checking the spark plugs.. lol all you needa do is add it to your gas tank when its low before you fill up. Ive honestly tried many other brands from shell to the brands you find at walmart and brands at auto stores.

You can usually find it online for about 20 bucks. But good luck finding it in stores. The sh*t is just too good for them to carry haha. But trust me sushi fish, BG shuld do the trick as far as injection goes..

When i first got my license I went through several used cheap cars that i bought off local listings. BG44k was usually the first thing i did, and it worked like magic.
Now for whatever reason that you may have for not wanting BG, theres always redline fuel injector cleaner. You can find it in stores for about 10 bucks. BUT BG is something that I recommend to all my friends.

engifineer

BG only sells it through authorized dealers. My father is one of them.. but his shop is 650 miles away I buy a couple of cans from him at cost when I dont have any around just in case I need it. Typically something you only use ever 50,000 miles or so. He is very fond of it, and this is a man that is a 40+ year mechanic and is about as skeptical as it gets towards any sort of additives and "mechanic in a can" so that is saying alot about results he has seen from it.

Another authorized dealer near you is probably your Toyota dealer. As far as I know that is the only cleaner they use when you go in for a fuel system cleaning (the "on the car" clean anyways) . BG's website also lists distributors near you.

mengsta

Yeah im definitely going to register as a dealer for BG when my store opens up.

SuShIxFiSh

iTrader: (1)

well i shall check the plugs and then give you guys the results

sciontc_mich

the plugs you want are the NGK IFRT611, they are the ones from the factory. I had a friend who put the Denso (toyota part from dealer) and the car didn't run as well. The plugs I pulled out of his were the IFR6T11's, they use both ngk and denso from the factory. If i were you, put the ngk's in.

Also, make sure the car is cold when you pull the plugs (just reminding you)

and I remember other manual trans cars I've had, where it would bounce in RPM as I pushed the clutch to the floor while moving. The rpm would bounce down to like 500 then back up to 1000, wouldn't reach regular idle until the car stopping moving. It always did that. I think because the air rushing in while moving tells the MAF sensor that air is flowing into the engine, match it with the same amount of fuel. then of course a higher rpm. Just my theory. But the facts are the rpms did blip like that.

I am starting to think if you pull the plugs out and look they'll look normal. I am starting to think this is normal behavior because I've seen it before as well, but wouldn't hurt to check the plugs.

BlackKnight

Do not use factory heat range plugs! Also if you are FI use one step colder copper plug gapped at .28-.32.

SuShIxFiSh

iTrader: (1)

all i have is headers and CAI

SuShIxFiSh

iTrader: (1)

car wouldn't run right if that was the problem

engifineer

You must mean not to use factory heat range plugs IF BOOSTED. If NA you should certainly use factory heat range plugs.

And I would choose Denso over NGK any day, but both are good. If someone swapped between them and made a difference in the way the car ran, something was wrong with the orginal set.