Thanks TRD springs and rear sway and the hot-chicks front strut tie Does pretty well on the autox track considering I am running all season daily driver tires. Alignment work and a separate set of rims with some sticky tires is next!

 

I would say that 15.7 is very achievable in this car. I am not expert, but I had a 99 Civic LX before my Si, which had the D16Y7 in it. Stock time for it was 17.1 I believe, which was posted somewhere on line. I was able to run 16.6s all night long with a CAI on all season tires.

 

flint, if you read the entire thread you'd see I cited a real road test, page one somewhere

 

Engifineer, does the front strut tie bar help in the tC? I know your into auto cross and all, so i figure you would know. Alot of people say they can't feel any differance and that it doesn't help in the tC. I have the ingalls rear strut brace and it did help out. More of a solid feel and it got rid of my hatch rattle..

 

It depends on what tire you use but generally speaking you dont want to be at over 30psi, it decreases your traction but gives you more fuel economy. Deflate the tires a bit to increase traction, just make sure you don't over do it. Also, if you are serious about drag, eliminate all the weight you can. While the spare tire, tools, jack, full tank of gas, etc may not sound like much, when they are all removed and you only have 1/4 gas tank, the .1 sec difference may mean the difference between you and the other guy.

 

the trd strut brace feels great after install. they do help, i had bars in my old lancer.
as for the time quote, i misquoted. the fastest time in my boys tC was a 15.3

 

burgess that's funny your ingalls rear bar fixed your hatch rattle, that's what started mine!

 

Thats because it did nothing to prevent your hatch rattle, it was a coincidence (taking the rear apart as well) in either case most likely. I have seen one person (on ystc) that tore into the car and found the cause of the hatch rattle (at least the common cause, not loose trim)... back in 2005. It is a poorly made spot weld. The only way to fix involves completely removing the glass. A brace will do nothing for it.

Matt,
I bought my car with the strut brace, but after driving a tC (test drive) without one I could tell little difference really. If you already have springs, sways(s) and good tires, the strut brace would be the next thing to do, but expect the smallest results.

Tires, springs and sway(s) will by far produce the largest result

 

ahh, the infamous hatch rattle... i remember at ATL toyota when we first got one of those cars.... ahh, the memories

 

with slicks or drag radials i would run atleast 14.3 i ran 15.1 with my setup at 94 mph i just have bad tires my boy ran 14.3 on drag radials on his car ( not a tc ) and trapped 94 mph

 

I should correct myself it was more like a creeking sound. I use to hear it when pulling in my driveway on an angle but after the rear strut brace it went away. I also put 1/8 rubber under the rear 2 legs of the brace before i bolted them down too. I'm not big on metal to metal aspecially when it comes to a brace like the ingalls thats why i did that with the rubber to stop any extra creeking noises..

 

I have I/H/E and some Kumho's on 28psi and I ran a 15.1 at the track. First run was 15.4 and second was 15.1!

 

^^Nice, try 23-25psi. What I/H/E do you have?

 

i got an or tc, all i got is a CAI and axle back Borla, and i ran a 10.35,. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .in an 1/8th mile. It was still cool though figuring my first time down the same track was 10.73. i improved by alot.

 

i got an or tc, all i got is a CAI and axle back Borla, and i ran a 10.35,. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .in an 1/8th mile. It was still cool though figuring my first time down the same track was 10.73. i improved by alot.

 

ap you ran a 15.1 because of those sexy fine wheels of yours!!

 

Pretty much.....you'll see your 60ft increase ever so slightly and your ET decrease ever so slightly