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378whp @ 20psi.. does that sound right?

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Old May 19, 2010 | 10:13 PM
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To answer some ?s. Im running 93 octane and yes 3rd gear does not exist anymore.
Im running a dezod modified aem ems

now heres todays story, i was going to test the car out and also go get my other walboro fp back from the shop which will be up fpr sale shortly.
on my way there i finally was able to really get into boost and as soon as i got to max psi the car felt like it hit a break wall. im like wtf. (like i hit top speed). So when i got to the shop. He grabed his laptop and said lets go see what you are talking about. Well as soon as i showed him he immediately said "its hitting the max boost setting" he raised it and it was fine after that. Buutt he said there was alot of knock in boost so he pulled 3 degres of timing and 1psi. He said i wont feel any difference because its making more power on the street then the dyno. He even said" we couldnt turn the boost up anymore on the dyno and now i can raise it to 20psi on the street, it could also be the tires were spinning on the rollers"
I am lil confused, im far from a newb but still learning alot through this whole experiance. does this make sense?
Old May 19, 2010 | 10:15 PM
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oh and btw i put an order in for a DMH exhaust cut-out
Old May 19, 2010 | 10:15 PM
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Please stop going to this person

A 35R is good for 600 crank all day
Old May 19, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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^ i know that, thats why i got it. I just cant figure out how a highly reputable shop that makes race cars cant figure it out
Old May 19, 2010 | 10:20 PM
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whats your injector duty cycles look like?

and what AFR and timing exactly.. since you say they are conservative?


If you are really interested in the dyno numbers throw on the cutout and see what power you make. I put your setup at around 420-430

dyno dynamics is the lowest reading dyno
Old May 19, 2010 | 10:23 PM
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my afrs are low 11's in boost. ill find the other stuff out for sure. i never said they were conservative tho
Old May 19, 2010 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BlitzBlueBeast
my afrs are low 11's in boost. ill find the other stuff out for sure. i never said they were conservative tho
O ok maybe I misread.

Post up all of the info you have.. the more the better.
Old May 19, 2010 | 10:49 PM
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You should be at mid 11's not low 11's and your tuner is a moron. What tires are you running? I hope its over 400 thread wear for you to say you were spinning on the dyno. Cause I made over 400 on 300 treadwear tires and I didn't spin. Maybe they didn't strap it up good. Either way if i were you i would take it to a shop that has experience in tuning a tc. But in reality I think those numbers sound about right. Cause you are on 2.25 piping and low comp pistons and probably on conservative timing. Changed your exhaust up and watch how those numbers go up.
Old May 20, 2010 | 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by m6ar2cel6oTC
You should be at mid 11's not low 11's and your tuner is a moron. What tires are you running? I hope its over 400 thread wear for you to say you were spinning on the dyno. Cause I made over 400 on 300 treadwear tires and I didn't spin. Maybe they didn't strap it up good. Either way if i were you i would take it to a shop that has experience in tuning a tc. But in reality I think those numbers sound about right. Cause you are on 2.25 piping and low comp pistons and probably on conservative timing. Changed your exhaust up and watch how those numbers go up.


x2
Old May 20, 2010 | 01:25 PM
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Ok, after he took away timing and "- 1psi" I wasn't able to really test it out till this morning. Well I can't make more then 12psi and it seems waaayy slower. He either lied to me or something is wrong. All I know is I'm really getting tired of this
Old May 20, 2010 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BlitzBlueBeast
To answer some ?s. Im running 93 octane and yes 3rd gear does not exist anymore.
Im running a dezod modified aem ems

now heres todays story, i was going to test the car out and also go get my other walboro fp back from the shop which will be up fpr sale shortly.
on my way there i finally was able to really get into boost and as soon as i got to max psi the car felt like it hit a break wall. im like wtf. (like i hit top speed). So when i got to the shop. He grabed his laptop and said lets go see what you are talking about. Well as soon as i showed him he immediately said "its hitting the max boost setting" he raised it and it was fine after that. Buutt he said there was alot of knock in boost so he pulled 3 degres of timing and 1psi. He said i wont feel any difference because its making more power on the street then the dyno. He even said" we couldnt turn the boost up anymore on the dyno and now i can raise it to 20psi on the street, it could also be the tires were spinning on the rollers"
I am lil confused, im far from a newb but still learning alot through this whole experiance. does this make sense?
It doesn't take much effort or load to spin a 500lb drum on the dyno, but it does take more effort to move that 3000lb car with a driver in it around on the road. What does this mean? Simple. That the car should be street tuned first then areas where are hard to get on the street, done on the dyno. Then topped off on the street for a final few passes. This is the exact process we like to ideally perform. Of course, it's not always possible due to time or $$ constraints, but how often do you really drive you car on the dyno? Next to none....How often on the street? 99.999% of the time.

Where is the best place to tune a race car? On the race course?!!? They do not call it "test and tune" for nothing.
Old May 20, 2010 | 02:01 PM
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Very good explanation. Thanks
Old May 20, 2010 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BlitzBlueBeast
Very good explanation. Thanks
Glad I could shed some light on the deal for you.

Remove the exhaust of a dyno pass or 2 and see the power and boost differences. This will let you know how much of an exhaust restriction you have.
Old May 20, 2010 | 03:15 PM
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Well I ordered a cut -out so hopefully that will do the trick..
Btw I contacted the shop and he said he thinks its a faulty boost controller cuz its was giving him a lot of probs. Gonna throw in a manual 1 @ lunch time and see what happens
Old May 20, 2010 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BlitzBlueBeast
Well I ordered a cut -out so hopefully that will do the trick..
Btw I contacted the shop and he said he thinks its a faulty boost controller cuz its was giving him a lot of probs. Gonna throw in a manual 1 @ lunch time and see what happens
Bro you have a faulty tuner/shop owner that keeps bringing different excuses everytime he finds out it's not what excuse he told you it was.
Old May 20, 2010 | 03:49 PM
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I'm sure your rite, but @ this time its all I got. He's not charging me everytime I bring it back. Not saying it makes it better. But. Just wanna get it running good. Ill do the exhaust cut-iut and have a good tc tuner do the next tune and be done with it
Old May 20, 2010 | 10:15 PM
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so i went back and got a manual boost controller installed and car is good to go. (car pullls like a ****) He says now the boost is being able to be turned up and truly believes my aem controller is faulty. He knows its not my turbo finally.
thanks for the help and advice fellas. ill get another dyno with the cut-out and see what happens.. It seems you guys all agree my exhaust was a problem. Ill post the new dyno soon.
Old May 20, 2010 | 10:34 PM
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dude, take it to the track and see what it runs. 400whp should yield close to 120mph trap speeds.
Old May 20, 2010 | 10:46 PM
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Default 378whp @ 20psi.. does that sound right?

Originally Posted by brett561tc
dude, take it to the track and see what it runs. 400whp should yield close to 120mph trap speeds.
True cause when I was at 370 I trapped 115mph. Spining 1-3 gears. Gl blitz!!!!!
Bret what's up with aj?
Let me know when you tune is done
Old May 20, 2010 | 11:34 PM
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Where do you live Blitz?

Those boost control solenoids do go bad sometimes - a replacement is an easy/cheap find and should definetly work better than a MBC

keep us posted with new dyno numbers



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