CarbonXe is boosted. 287.2/272
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 16,638
From: Parsippany, NJ
Yeah, my idle goes all out of whack, my wideband was only reading while on accel, my idle vacuum was low (18-22inHG). Gonna have to pick up a new sensor from the NAPA store Friday.
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SL Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,936
From: Western NY
Originally Posted by CarbonXe
Yeah, my idle goes all out of whack, my wideband was only reading while on accel, my idle vacuum was low (18-22inHG). Gonna have to pick up a new sensor from the NAPA store Friday.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 16,638
From: Parsippany, NJ
Yea, that's what it does mean. Odds are it's your MAF map. You should be idling at around 2.2-2.3V, and maxing out in the mid to upper 4V range.
As a side note, I adjusted my idle map finally, so my car actually warms up now, lol. It used to run rich when warming up, so it would get to 150 and begin to cool down. Just changed my O2 reading at idle and that problem went away quickly.
As a side note, I adjusted my idle map finally, so my car actually warms up now, lol. It used to run rich when warming up, so it would get to 150 and begin to cool down. Just changed my O2 reading at idle and that problem went away quickly.
good to hear bro...i noticed your map ran like a champ when temps are around 40-50f outside, but today it warmed up to 73f and now it runs lean at idle(16-17afr) and cruse(15.8-16.5) (i know it doesnt make sense) but hella rich mid and full boost.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 16,638
From: Parsippany, NJ
Make these changes to help with idle warmup.
If you can use a laptop, use the Gauges feature and just adjust the idle block to these values. It should help clean up idle.
O2 - 3.49V
MAF - 2.23V
Fuel - Adjust to make it stable at 14.7-15.5
With the O2 at 1v, it doesn't like to warm up properly, it stays rich.
I'm gradually converting my O2 map, but eventually it will be better than what it is now.
If you can use a laptop, use the Gauges feature and just adjust the idle block to these values. It should help clean up idle.
O2 - 3.49V
MAF - 2.23V
Fuel - Adjust to make it stable at 14.7-15.5
With the O2 at 1v, it doesn't like to warm up properly, it stays rich.
I'm gradually converting my O2 map, but eventually it will be better than what it is now.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 16,638
From: Parsippany, NJ
Lol, the funny thing about my tune, it's actually terrible on a dyno. It holds a nice AFR on the street, but the guys at PTuning said all street tunes are like mine...uber rich pre boost. I, along with everyone at PTuning, was surprised it put almost 300 down and had such a clean curve. We expected my chart to be jumping all over the place from sporadic AFRs and clutch slippage 
.
If I actually had a way of putting a load on the car without doing 120MPH uphill on the highway, I could probably tune the car completely.
.If I actually had a way of putting a load on the car without doing 120MPH uphill on the highway, I could probably tune the car completely.
Originally Posted by CarbonXe
Lol, the funny thing about my tune, it's actually terrible on a dyno. It holds a nice AFR on the street, but the guys at PTuning said all street tunes are like mine...uber rich pre boost. I, along with everyone at PTuning, was surprised it put almost 300 down and had such a clean curve. We expected my chart to be jumping all over the place from sporadic AFRs and clutch slippage .
If I actually had a way of putting a load on the car without doing 120MPH uphill on the highway, I could probably tune the car completely.
.If I actually had a way of putting a load on the car without doing 120MPH uphill on the highway, I could probably tune the car completely.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 16,638
From: Parsippany, NJ
You'd enjoy it more if you had a laptop and could make the adjustments to get it to run right for your can 
.
I still suggest getting it tuned lol. I wish I could tune mine next month when I go to PTuning, but I don't want to put that much strain on the new clutch. I'd rather properly break in the clutch and bring it back down in the spring.
.I still suggest getting it tuned lol. I wish I could tune mine next month when I go to PTuning, but I don't want to put that much strain on the new clutch. I'd rather properly break in the clutch and bring it back down in the spring.
Originally Posted by CarbonXe
Make these changes to help with idle warmup.
If you can use a laptop, use the Gauges feature and just adjust the idle block to these values. It should help clean up idle.
O2 - 3.49V
MAF - 2.23V
Fuel - Adjust to make it stable at 14.7-15.5
With the O2 at 1v, it doesn't like to warm up properly, it stays rich.
I'm gradually converting my O2 map, but eventually it will be better than what it is now.
If you can use a laptop, use the Gauges feature and just adjust the idle block to these values. It should help clean up idle.
O2 - 3.49V
MAF - 2.23V
Fuel - Adjust to make it stable at 14.7-15.5
With the O2 at 1v, it doesn't like to warm up properly, it stays rich.
I'm gradually converting my O2 map, but eventually it will be better than what it is now.
oh i fully plan on a pro tune, cash has been short and by the time i was able to get some ot in the holidays rear their ugly heads.........so im s.o.l. for atleast another month