Here in SoCal you normally just pay them off. I know a ton of people who run illegal mods everything from supped up CRX's to Subbies I think the avg. price to "Pass" is around $150.

 

I use to work at emission testing center here in MD and you might wanna ask about waivers. We would give them out if you spent a certain amount of money on fixing your emission system. If you "did" the repairs yourself the amount was lower all you had to do was provide a reciept for the parts you bought like o2 sensors, cat etc. then you get a waiver then you go and return the parts and get your money back and you dont have to worry about it till the next time you get tested here in MD its every 2 years

 

If they only do OBDII test and no sniffer test then this is your fix:



Spark Plug non-fouler DIY:

Autozone or the likes sell a spark plug non-fouler HELP! Part # 42009, has same exact thread as O2 sensor. What you do is buy 3 (2 packs for a total of 4 but only use 3). Bore one out with a 1/2" drill bit. Thread the secondary O2 sensor into the one bored out then thread the other 2 non-bored into that then thread into s pipe and done, no cel. I did this and passed OBDII emissions test twice before selling the car. PIC:



*The O2 sensor with the non-fouler is the secondary, the other is a wideband.*


Brand HELP! part # 42009


bored out

 

^^TN only does the OBDII plug in. That's how I pass emissions...Anti-Fouler trick.

 

/\/\ yup yup, plus this cost then $5

 

ALSO, a word of advice:

Right before you go in to get tested, reset your ecu (disconnect the negative from your battery for 10ish minutes). Then drive very very slow, haha there, avoiding boost. This will erase any codes thrown within the ecu that don't trip a CEL. These codes will still cause an emissions failure, so this is a fail safe.

 

I had CEL codes P0172 and P0136 since I had the Turbonetics kit installed running the AEM F/IC. Wasn't a problem until a few months ago when E-testing came round. I wired in a new rear o2 sensor (Bosch generic) and my CELs were gone... and still gone to this day. My ScanGauge II tells me so.

 

dont they rev your engine when doing emissions in your state? Just having a turbo on should give you a fail. Also, unplug your battery and clear everything out - and get things to run w/o codes (thats surely step1)

 

When you unplug your battery, your computer will go into testing mode when plugged back in. I guess thats what you call it. I tried reading my codes and it said "-Not Ready-" to test. You have to wait until the computer is ready to be tested a.k.a. driving a certain number of miles or time or whatever. So just unplugging the battery won't work unless its a intermittent problem. Meaning, what is setting off the code is reset by power cycling and stays off after the ECU is ready to be tested.

 

nice ive been having the same problem, shooting a low cat deficiency code and had no idea what to do thanks again you guys on sl, always commin thru

 

Never heard of anyone reving up people's car during an emissions testing.

And if you clear the codes by resetting your battery right before getting a test, they will tell you the ECU is in testing mode and to go drive around till its done and come back then.

 

Wouldn't it just be easier to find a place that you can pay off to pass you? Back when OK had vehicle inspections - like 10 years ago lol - I knew several people that just paid the guy doing the inspection an extra $20 to pass lol

 

wow 20 is nothing.. people in cali are paying hundreds i've heard lol

 

thats a part of the sniffer test they do in some states. They don't "rev" your motor, they just hold it at a low rpm, 1500rpms for a short period of time and measure the amount of pollutant that comes out of the exhaust.

 

^well then the guys at the dmv were having a blast w/ my car cause they might have revved it 15 times. I had my hands on my head and my head between my legs sitting on a bench .... saying ....im gonna fail ...im gonna fail

rhythmnsmoke - i was trying to say that he needs to put the anti foulers in - clear the codes and start fresh. Like you said ...yea ...dont flush it while at the dmv or anything.

The CEL issue is fixable and most importantly .... look up the codes and find out why they are really on. i have the scan tool in my car ever since i blew my first engine. It actually came into use when my CEL went on a few months ago because of my secondary o2 sensor going bad.

 

well, in Illinois, they used to put all pre OBD-II cars on a dyno and run them thru a predetermined test. They have sinced changed that a couple of times. I think now on OBD-II cars they just plug in, but i'm not sure. Illinois has you test you car every two years, but only after the fourth model year.

So since i have an '06 my first test won't be until 2010. So we'll see when my time comes. I actually think i may be able to pass with a few tricks up my sleeve (once my turbo kit is complete of course). 2 more weeks...i can't wait!!

Also, looks like the OP isn't around to comment anymore LOL

 

I'm pretty sure you'll have to get a scan guage and actually erase the codes (after you put the defouler on the secondary 02 sensor) as they are stored in the ECU. I've talked the people at Autozone into doing this for me before. I tried the unhooking my battery thing and the codes just came back after the car finished the 'testing mode'. I do think you will have to drive around for a while after the codes are erased to let the system test again, though.

This will also take care of the running rich code as well, as long as you stay out of boost until you get your emissions done. Or as previous posters said, you can just get a better tune.

 

Somethings you should keep in mind.. when preparing

1. Make sure O2 sensors and maf sensor are good
2. Make sure spark plugs are good, equally gapped and not fouled
3. Do the anti-fouler mod
4. Have a great tune, it doesn't only involve good afrs but afrs that are close to your fuel trims.. that makes tuning tricky
5. Open dumps may only pass without visual inspection
6. Tail pipe sniffers maybe your enemy, even without CEL you might need to run a cat converter
7. Your engine must be healthy, the only reason you will fail should only be your turbo setup and nothing else. Most common codes for turbo setup, cat efficiency, rich codes, lean codes, misfire codes, maf sensor code
8. If you live in cali lol.. move out of state, jk

 

Resurecting this thread, curious as to how far people have gone with this mods wise? people running built engines and lots of boost passing emissions? I was very surprised when I passed 2 days ago w/the anti-fouler trick.

What happened to the good 'ol days when you could just slam your car and they would give you a waiver .

'06 tC w/Turbonetics Kit and Greddy E-manage Ultimate with No Codes. Luckily it's only once every 2 years here.

 

If you are in Maryland the reason is because they did away with the dyno emission test. Even though you would'nt have gotten tested that way since your car obd2, the way the old lanes were set up is that you would have to drive over the rollers to get to the obdII test computer. For fear of damaging slammed cars going over the rollers they used to just give out waivers.