Update:

Still running like crap, car starts to stumble at 2k rpms, but i havent gone past 0 psi just to be safe until i can get this issue fixed and i've been checking my oil everyday. I've got the Dezod 2.5" pipe on the way the the flange welded onto it. I have not done what DeAnzaJig told me to do yet because im waiting on the pipe to come in and i doubt it will fit if i switch it around because the pipe after the maf is longer than the pipe with the bov on it so i don't think it will fit. Once the pipe comes in i'm going to havee my buddy down at the shop try to cut it if it's to long customize the whole charge pipe to it will be throttle body, maf, then bov. my question is will dat change the current tune of the maf coming after the bov? because i'm pretty sure my buddy that had this set up on his car before got it tuned this way, and when i had it on mine before it blew off, it ran rich idle somedays. (15.5-16.3) but somedays it ran fine (14.7). Let me know what you guys think

 

15.5 is leaner that 14.7 btw
the higher the number, the leaner the mixture.

id say its still not going to run up to par with the new setup. it will definately run a LOT better because thats how its sapposed to be. you shouldnt be too far off, but only a test will tell!

 

there u go lean i get them mixed up:/ so switching the order around will not change the tune that i had or affect it in anyway? what test are you talking about? text me dude.

 

it won't change the idle tune, because the blow off valve being before the MAF gets rid of all of the excess air so the maf doesn't even know its there when you are getting out of boost. at idle, the blow off valve won't do anything, the only thing it will change is the placement of the MAF being further away from a bend so it will have a better reading.

 

But my afrs will go back to normal once i put the correct piping on right? Instead of the lean idle im having right now. And your saying that putting the maf and bov where there supposed to be wont mess my tune up?

 

That is correct, in a sense. You can't expect perfect afr's since it isnt tuned on your car tho, thats just the way it is.

and btw, sorry, my phone is been bein crappy. gettin a new one today, ill hit u up later

 

yeah, once you put on the correct size piping for the maf it "should" make the idle better. But right now, if you were to just switch the bov and maf around, it wouldn't affect the idle tune at all.

 

So i got the dezod pipe in yesterday im going to the shop tomorrow to see if my buddy can modify it similar to the ptuning blow thru pipe except with an hks bov instead of the tial flange the use.

 

So i went to the shop, got the bov and maf switched around and put in the new and correct pipe that i got from dezod. Started the car and noticed that the stumble and hiccups went away but the idle is still lean jumping to blank then jumping all over the place. i tried to go into boost and it hit 10.8...but sometimes when i drive around at cruise it will be anywhere from 13.9-15.5 just jumping around the dial. So i now know that i need to get it re-tuned. I've been driving it in vacuum this whole time and i have been driving it smart and have not been getting on it. But i have been smelling fuel inside the cabin probably due to the fact that my tune changed when my vacuum got fixed to 20 Ingh

I scheduled an appt. for next tuesday at Church's Automotive for a fine tune which will be $350 flat rate so not bad

My friend at the shop told me that i also have an exhaust leak, would that be something that i would need to get fixed before i go get it tuned?

 

yes it would. you need to have everything buttoned up before going to get tuned.

 

the gas could also be a broken oring on your injectors. i would double check everything before spending 350 on a tune.

 

ill deff check that and fix my exhaust leak tomorrow or monday before i head out to church's

 

the lean idle is from your exhaust leak, obviously before the wideband 02 gauge. this has happened a few times to me too

 

nice thats were i tuned my car

 

So a lot has happened, i got tuned about 2 weeks ago to see if that would solve my problems i was having, i made 280whp 263 ft/lbs on 7 PSI but while on the dyno the car would smoke after the run from the crankcase vent, the vent currently has a hose with a breather at the end kind of how p-tuning runs theirs. Anyways since i got back from the tuners and maybe a week before that ive been having smoke coming out of the breather coming from the crankcase vent, not pouring out but visible enough to see sometimes, it happens at idle after i get off the freeway, on my way back home from the tuners, about anytime that i run the car for a while, i havent raced or driven it hard since idk when. Theres no oil gushing out or spouting out ofthe crankcase vent it's just smoke that smells like oil of course

Oil levels are still cool, coolant is pretty low but no sign of oil or sign of it being milky. The car seems like its loosing power and im actually going to take of my kit on tuesday cuz its got to go because of this. DeAnzaJig told me its oil blowby and i searched it and i found i might have a broken ring on one of my pistons, ive never droven my car hard and i was only on 7 PSI. He said an oil catch can might help but i think it goes further than the catch can.

I'm actually looking for a short block from a local junk yard as we speak, that im going to buy with the turbo money, assuming that the head is still in good working condition, im only going to need the short block.

Does anyone know where i can get a used short block with low miles?

Any info would be appreciated!

 

Anyone?

 

I would have a compression test done.

 

It could be the turbo check the bottom to see if its oily

Sent from my DROID incredible

 

Ditto on the compression test.

 

I third the comp test and raise a leakdown test depending on how the comp test comes out.