it will run a bit leaner, im guestimating. considering the turbo might spool a bit faster. but that will make your tune even worse than it is. it will probably be pretty cheap to get it tuned, considering that theres not a whole lot they'd have to change.

 

Anyone know of a place close to Pittsburgh where I could get my car tuned once I get a dezod kit for my car??

 

Guessing Aem Fic
Theres a website called google!
here are two

http://www.cbrdspeedfactory.com/Homepage.aspx
http://www.hybridynamics.com/

 

so new questions have come up...

1) i want to have a muffler shop make me a 3 inch exhaust, should i get it from the turbo back or from the s-pipe back? the downpipe and s-pipe are 2.5" and how many resonators? and whats the price range for a turboback or spipe back 3 inch.

2) how long do i have to get it re-tuned after they install the 3 inch exhaust? My tuner is 2 hours away.

3) my ingh reads 14 on my vacuum, where can i find my leak at?

 

4) i want to install the walbro 255 fuel pump, will that affect my tune will i have to get the car re-tuned?

 

i would get a 3 inch exhaust from the turbo back. pricewise, really depends on where you go. just like insurance or anything else... shop around and get the best price ^^

i would get it tuned pretty much asap.

do a boost leak test. theres a how to on here somewhere.

i don't know about this one. but if you could always just do a return system(don't know your numbers you're looking for) to keep your duty cycle on the injectors down.

 

fuel pump wont affect your tune it doesnt change how much fuel your injectors put into each cylinder. it will just increase the preassure

 

Anymore input on my questions?

 

I had a problem right now, i was cruisin fast in 3rd hit redline car bogged on me and turned off it was smoking a little bit, tried to crank it and it struggled to stay on and idled real bad, and i tries to go and it wouls just read 10.0 on afr's. Any ideas?

 

blew off a coupler.....guaranteed

 

^^ that

 

So i went to the shop today, since the pipe that wasnt clamping on right was bent after it had blown off, making it read like 11ingh on my boost gauge at idle and it was 12-13 before this happened so obviously i had a leak somewhere, we got one of those 3 inch MAF adapters from pep boys to mount the maf and put 3 inch to 2.5 inch reducer couplers and he put in new spark plugs (ngk) dont know the number but i will get it tomorrow, my plugs before today were ngk coppers and were gapped to 0.26, he gapped the new ones to 0.30 i dont think they were cipper but i might be wrong, anyways he redid the vacuum lines and told me i was getting a bad reading on vacuum because i was getting vacuum from somewhere that wasnt the best so now im getting vacuum from the back of the valve cover valve i think its the pcv valve and it gets t'd off to the vacuum block. Started it up and vacuum went to 20 ingh so normal there now, BUT now my afr's are reading nothing at idle or 17.8-18.0. But now in boost it reads the full 7 psi in full boost and before it was only readimg about 4-5 cuz of the leak, the afr's in boost were 10.7 today after i took it from the shop but read wat i said at idle. Any input? I need help? Should i disconnect the battery to reset the ECU? Wat should i do?

 

Btw my afrs before today were ok. They were 14.7-15.5 on good todays.

 

they were good before, because you had gotten tuned with a lot of vac leaks. now those are gone so the air part of the air/fuel ratio has changed.

 

Anyone else? So tune asap?

 

Did i mention it stumbles/hick ups barely taking off at half throttle then i let go of the trottle and it pops from the exhaust.

 

can anyone chime in on this? crush? dezod? anyone?

 

TUNE

btw what happened with it today, you never called me back

 

start with checking your spark plug gap. then check your AFR at that portion of your tune. those are generally what cause hic-ups

 

also aer you running a FIC? i did the resistor mod on mine and the hicups went away.