I'll get on AIM in about 20 min. Gotta finish this game of modern warefare II.

Also u should of got all four done man! MAjor HP 4TW..

 

I was thinking of getting sleeved, but with what the stock sleeves handle and my power goals, i don't need all that. It will be a dd car and I'm not planning going huge numbers so i didn't want to overkill it. I was in school earlier so we will have to have a chat some other time. I'm trying to get my hands on a bolt stretch gauge i can borrow, cause I really don't feel like paying $150 for the arp one and using it once

 

Gotta wait till monday for the align hone, but in the mean time I got some more goodies in the mail. Deatch Werks 700cc injectors! Thanks to Ruswolf

 

looks good im order the last few build parts i need this month.

 

Well lets hope slow and steady wins the race, because thats the pace for the build so far lol. I have been busy lately and I haven't had time to work on the car much. Balance shaft oil hole is threaded and plugged. Just ordered an act 6 puck and ss clutch line from dezod. So along with the speedsource extended slave cylinder pushrod and the dezod goodies the clutch is solid. Hopefully, next weekend the engine is going back together.

 

More goodies from the nice people at dezod!

 

 

Injectors look brand new , lol )

You are welcome bud.

 

Paul do you guys go with the stock/wiseco specs on bearings clearances and piston ring gap? I've heard people building a bit looser than spec for forced induction apps?


I bought a book "The Step-By-Step Guide to Engine Blueprinting: Practical Methods for Racing and Rebuilding" and have been reading it. Along with watching a nice 3-part tutorial a few times. Now i need to get my hands on a bore gauge and I'll have everything I need to get this build going.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpy_By5aIxM

 

gompka, have you bought stock in dezod yet for all the $ you're spending their ;) lol

 

lol... If it were available, i would consider it Paul IPO anytime soon

 

damn you should be making 500whp once everythings done what turbo are you going to be running

 

it'd def be a good investment lol. when u expecting to have the build done? i might have to make a trip up north to check it out when its done

 

I use a .006" ring gap multiplier when I build most any forced induction engine. CP recommends a .006 gap so I run with it I have at least a hundred built engines running around the country with no mechanical issues. I tend to ask for a slightly larger piston to wall clearance than wiseco asks for because during tear downs you can see evidence of skirt wear and scuffing which is an indication of too little clearance. I like .004-.0045 depending on the application and the expected boost level.

Top ring = Bore x .006"

Second ring = Top ring + .004"

As for bearing clearances. I tend to stick to the stock clearances and err on the high side of the clearance. I find this works well If I am concerned with turning 10000 rpm then I loosen them up but only by a thousandth or so. The most important thing is running the best oil you can and not starving the engine for even a second. Aeration will damage bearings fast.

 

Your guess is as good as mine lol. If dezod would stop coming out with things I want/need it might get done soon. I am checking on funds and trying to decide whether i want to do the return fuel system now or later.

 

comp .63ar 54 trim

 

Cant forget the reference materials, can't hurt to read up some more before I dive into things, since I have never done it before. Will also have a friend helping out who has built a hot rods.

 

little reading never hurt unless its a dear john letter then yeah that kinda hurts...lol

 

oh man i think i have this book from my engine blueprinting class hahahaha

 

lol i picked it up on half.com for $15 shipped new.