Well first of all I would like to say hey, I just signed up over here have been a member of YSTC for almost 3 years now.

Well since i have gotten my car I have been saving money to turbo it, and I finally have about 4,500 bucks to go to town. Ive done a lot of research and Steve,Bluescion, has been helping me through the process however I am still a little worried about some of the hassles. I do a lot of driving, I have 55 k on my car in 2 and a half years so i need it to fairly reliable as my DD. The state inspections have gotten a little tougher now as everyone knows, so I will obviously need the car to pass that. If i go the Unichip route the CEL will not be lit, but i Know it wont pass the emissions sniffer(maybe with a high flow cat?). As for the inspection I would inspect it right before I Installed the turbo to have a year at least before I worried about it, and hopefully make some friends with some connections. Here is what I am leaning towards so far, PLEASE leave some feedback, especially the few of you guys here who actually have been through this!

Treadstone Kit- Its fairly new, however I Really like this kit the most so far (out of the kits that aren't 5 grand), just not really digging cutting the crash bar and front bumper for the FMIC, and as we know it dosent come with any management.

Clutch/ Flywheel- Clutch masters stage 2 and Fidanza flywheel.

Auto- Meter- Boost, oil press and Air/fuel gauge W/ the A pillar pod

Eventually the 800 dollar Unichip and tune.

Treadstone insists that the kit is fully operational and safe without management or tuning which is kinda scary. As soon as I have the money I will purchase the Unichip because it seems to be the best option for the TC. Agree?


Grand total for the kit, clutch/flywheel,gauges is about 4,200 Plus install for clutch/flywheel? and I don't know exactly how much that will be, guessing a few hundred?

I will be doing the install with a cupple of my buddy's who know what they are doing as well. So I am not really worried about that.


What you guys think of my plans any help/criticism is GREATLY APPRECIATED.

- Greg

 

I am no expert, but I too bought the Treadstone set up and had a professional who is doing my install tell me it is a 4500 kit! You are in good hands with it. Just ask Nd4spd. He has it on his tC. I think you already know that though. As for the Unichip, I agree, go that route. Again, my guy tells me the E-Manage, though popular, is not necessarily the best EMS set up to go with. No knock to anyone who has one. But I say Treadstone is a good choice simply because of their Cast Iron Manifold. Those can withstand alot! but hey, ZPI and Dezod both make sick kits and there are countless fellas and females that can a-test to those kits. But for my money Treadstone stole my heart. Good luck with everything. Turbo's sure are fun. Oh yea, Mallonyx, Rhythmnsmoke, 318tc and a few others are good peeps who know a ton! sorry if I forgot people, im sure I did.

Jared

 

Heyyyyy, I know a ton! Just not on turbos yet, more the supercharger. Anyway, I think your plans are solid. The treadstone kit is a solid kit from what I've heard and seen, and the clutch should work well. If it's not a lot more, I would suggest going with a stage 3. It may be overkill, but this way you would not have to worry about upgrading your stage 2 clutch if you decide to raise your power output. Again weight the difference in price from stage 2 to stage 3. Just a suggestion. Everything else looks good!

 

sounds like a plan. i love cast manifolds cause there harder to crack and they hold the heat really well. a hot manifold is a good manifold. it increases spool-up due to the velocity and hot expanding gases.

i'm not too familar with the unichip. i'm still a firm believer in the S-AFC if your not going full standalone. it's cheap and it's easy.

you also have to realize when you go FI, there is always hidden cost. things pop up all the time and it's the nature of the beast. also "reliable" is a relative term. there always a chance of melting a piston or breaking a rod ,etc...

hell i built a 7k supra motor with forged everthing and i put the #5 rod through the block cause of a piece of dirt in my boost controller. i hit 40psi on a 67mm turbo and it was just too much for the rods to handle.

i think your headed in the right direction and have fun.

i still say this though, if you have the skill and know what your doing a QUALITY kit can be installed for under 2500$ doing everything yourself...

 

yeah, it is a daunting task when you don't know exactely what your doing. i'm in the same boat you are to a certain extent but i got way more work a head of me.

incase there is anything to learn from it, here is my turbo project thus far:

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...ight=plan++aka

 

drax, i read your thread and if your still wondering about EGT'S i can fully enlighten you

 

turbo? you dont need no turbo, this car is a beast stock from factory!

 

HAHAHA yea, well i guess ive tamed the beast then. Thanks for the imput guys, you are a huge help!

 

yes, please enlighten me. i have a friend who drag races turbocharged motorcycles and says that if i have an a/f gauge, that i don't need an egt gauge because they tell you the same type of problem, so i don't need an egt gauge. so does anybody know if that is true? i now a/f is air/fuel ratio, and that egt is exhaust gas temperature, so they measure different things but what do they tell you if something is wrong?

 

Not true. So the AFR gauge basically displays half of the equation. It tells what air is flowing by that sensor at that given moment. However if that just happened to be a rush of air, and the real mixture is say .7 AFR higher, without an EGT gauge, you would think it is dialed in correctly.

An EGT gauge is used to tell you truly where you are on the upside down bell curve of AFRs. ( |_| ) If your in the ideal point for that engine, AFR wise, it will stop the EGTs from climbing and will roughly level off. If for example your too rich or too lean, the EGTs will continue to climb. Boat loads of fuel and boat loads of air will burn excessively hot, as a rule of thumb.

As a shortcut, once you establish what the engine wants at that point, you can virtually tune with minimal WB O2 feedback due to the fact of getting the EGTs to level at that exact point of previous capture. If done properly, the AFR will coinside.

A little tuning 103