no i hate the plastic lol, and the uego sound slike its reading fine to me lol

 

im not running my factory o2 sensor im just using the uego, but this was last nite i installed the uego, when i got the car back it still had the factory o2 and was still acting crazy

 

why are u not runnign the factory o2? tryin gto tune just open loop
?

 

i read on a thread that u can tune the uego on the data input wire to tune all closed/open loop settings. and that the factory o2 will sometimes just get in the way. its hard to explain because im still tryna figure it out. i'll have to post the link so u can read it

 

um sorry no that doesnt work buddy.... what emanage are u using

 

Are you talking about the line from the intake manifold to the back of the valve cover? If so, i thought having that oconnected would pressurize the engine?

On mine i have the port on the intake manifold blocked off and a breather on the back of the valve cover/motor.

I could be totally wrong, which is why i'm posting :-)

 

well the one on the back of the valve cover has a pcv valve its a one way valve, pressure cant get in,


the way u have it is fine sinc eu have the intake manifold BLOCKED, but i reccomend u hook it back up so that when in VAC the crankcase can get depressuriezed

 

You need to reinstall factory o2 sensor...

 

If you do not have a wide-band and if you cannot programm your piggy-back this mod will not work for you. This will allow folks who do their own fuel maps to get full and total control of fuel with just a piggy-back fuel computer (No stand alone required).

The tC has a fuel contol mode called OP3 (Open-Loop 3). This is basically an extension of open loop 2 which typically but not always starts somewhere around 3500 RPM . OP3 extends open-loop into the lower RPM range 600 RPM's or as low as your car can idle. There is also OP1 this is what the tC defaults to when you first start the car it runs for a few minutes until the primary wideband warms up. Then the car would naturally switch over to closed-loop and idle from 14.7-15.3 A/F ratio.

Closed loop on the tC is a big pain in the ___, because no matter what you do it will always adjust the injector duty cycle until the A/F is at close to stoichiometric 14.7 no matterf you have 370cc injectors or 550cc injectors. This is a major pain in the rear because if the ECU is messing with the fuel trims under 3500 for most of the time, then tuning the emanage under 3500 or in-between the ever fussy line of closed-loop / open-loop becomes very difficult. You'll go from lean to rich too fast and mess up your power during the transition to open-loop.

Even if you tune with the greddy pressure sensor it will not be right on cause boost pressure does not equate to open-loop / closed-loop. what my modification allows you to do is to force the tC to use the open loop protocol (the same parameters it's using to calculate fuel flow at higher, more demandind times like full-throttle knuckle-busting runs) all the time...The ECU will not engage closed-loop at all...ever

Take some notes:

1. The car starts at open-loop.
2. The car goes to open-loop when you go past 3500 RPM (usually).
3, Large throttle changes also bring on open-loop
3. When you are pegging the needle the system is in open-loop.

The tC's ECU system is only in closed-loop when the car is trying to lower emissions and/or save gas. Once the tC is "forced" into open-loop all the time, tuning the emanage is very straight-forward and extremely repetable.

How do you get the ECU to stay in open-loop 3 all the time? You unplug the primary-oxygen sensor harness. That's it.

The car does not go into safe-mode or any other limp mode. The knock sensor still works, the ECU still pulls timing. The car still hauls ___ and the max RPM is still just north of 6000 RPM's.

The bad news? You got to have a wideband so you can adjust the injector sizing to get the car to idle at a perfect 14.7 when the engine is fully warmed up (while in park).

I found that if I played with the injector sizing setting on e-manage I could get the car to idle at whatever A/F I wanted and it was fairly consistent +/- .5 on my wide-band.

Tips to getting the perfect fuel map:

Remove all airflow correction (they will not be needed, initially). Only add injector duty when needed under boost to hit your target A/F. I found injector correction was not needed at higher RPM's. Actually a small airflow correction (reduce MAF signal) could me made at WOT -but I left the car a little rich to be safe.

After road-tunning the car richened up at any and all throttle settings at any boost level exactly like my fuel map told it to. partial throttle A/F was a whole lot better.

The only thing is that you will not be at a perfect 14.7:1-15.3:1 most of the time. I found I was in the upper 13's on the high-way and 14.3 in the traffic jams. Cold, hot dry or rainy the A/F did not fluctuate much it was close to 14 most of the time while off boost. I'm sure that MPG will suffer a little from the mod -but some gas money is cheaper than a new engine...and no more figting the ECU for closed-loop control!

This mod will give you a CEL it will read heater circuit oxygen sensor

1. You should not run the factory wide-band sensor with the heater circuit off long term. You probably can take it off -reinstall to get the car inspected. I'm sure that the A/F signal could be by-passed with a switch or other device to allow closed-loop to be turned on and off. from the cabin and keep the heater on like stock.

Since the wide-band A/F on the tC is current based and not voltage based you have to use gold-plated contacts on switches and/or relays that are used to hack into the factory A/F signal.

You could still use the mod to cut the time needed to programm your emanage fuel maps by keeping the ecu in open-loop. After you are done then reconnect the wide-band and the car will switch over to closed-loop mode again.

Happy Boosting

 

you can call aem and they can send you a tune through email to upload. usually tuners send you free tunes but not sure about aem. just call and see whats up.

 

we figured everything out last nite, i did a write up under "aem fic plain and simple"

 

this is old news people use to do it all the time, anyways u dont HAVE to use gold plated connectors, they just dont corrode, i used regular crimps to extend my wires for my o2 sensor...it works... and regular wiring too