well i removed the manifold and rebolted it. still ticks. when the car warms up, the only ticking you hear is the bigger injectors. so the metallic ticking goes away. stills screams gasket to me. think im gonna drop it off to my local performance shop and have them find the tick for me. i dont have the proper tools to remove piece by piece of the kit, it would have to be an all or nothing deal. but like i said as it warms up the noise goes away. i did find another small leak at the wastegate, so i sealed that. im not too worried about it now, the car runs great, my a/f is great. when he heard my vehicle i was roughly 5 minutes away and it was cold as ***** out so the car had not warmed up.. i was out there today and i left it idling for a little and the noise completely went away. so once again im happy .. i do still need to adjust the bov but not sure if i should tighten it or loosen it. any suggestions?

by the way i emailed sciondad the dyno sheet so it should be posted soon.. has a nice curve

 

The problem is if you loosen it too much the car will probly bog down in between shifts, and if you tighten it to much then its never gonna blow off. You are gonna just hafta play with it a lil bit and do minor adjustments then drive, then adjust and drive till you get the optimal point. Try loosening it a lil bit first then drive it and see what happens, Im curious to see if it stalls.

 

havnt addressed the bov issue yet but as far as that loud noise you heard mtx its the wastegate. the metal tick is the exhaust leak, and the other noise is the wastegate. sounds like its coming from under the hood because it is. the dump tube drops straight down from the wastegate itself so when i hit past 10psi boost it drops exhaust from the motor straight out of it causing a loud noise. most cars have the dump tube rerouted into the exhaust but the only problem with that is boost lag. so its running fine.

 

I'm curious to know who told you that you get lag when you reroute the wastegate dump back into the exhaust? My dump is rerouted back into my exhaust and I still hit full boost (8psi) at 2500rpms. My turbo is also alot bigger than what you have on your car. The fact is the car will make more power with the wastegate dump not rerouted back into the exhaust stream, but you also get the noise that goes with it.

 

the local performance shop says that if i reroute it into the exhaust it will cause boost lag. keep in mind im running factory exhaust which is restrictive as it is, so your talking about forcing more pressure through it then it already has, so hence the turbo would be working against itself. now if i had upgraded exhaust this wouldnt be a problem.

 

A Tial BOV can not be adjusted.

As far as the noise that you are hearing goes, it does sound like a gasket and when the gasket get warm the noise goes away. We HIGHLY suggest changing the OEM manifold gasket when installing the kit. If you develop a leak under the manifold you can ultimately lead to a warp manifold plate. We stock these if you need one stat. This coupled with the copper gaskets should elminate any issue you have.

Glad to hear the car is running well, what boost levels are you at I know you have 6.5psi spring are you using a controller? Those numbers seem kinda low, what type of dyno where you on?

-ZPIracing

 

im using your 10 psi spring and im hitting 10 psi.. pretty sure they boosted it to 10 psi on the dyno, though i wasnt in the car. the car is attempting to boost past 10psi when i stomp it because i can hear the wastegate dumping. i want to change out the manifold gasket but 70 bucks is steep for a gasket isnt it? another problem i see with that is its advertised that i should have no problem with the factory gasket, as long as a aftermarket header hasnt been installed. no header has been installed on mine so im wondering why im having the issue. any ideas?

keep in mind my tuning is a very safe tuning. i believe the guy said he set it to 11.8 to 12.5. thats my range if im not mistaken. but i have the 7psi spring sitting at the house, but ive definitely seen it hit 10.. also keep in mind im not racing this car, i just wanted a turbo car. one of the few things ive never had. to give you an idea of what i do with cars heres 2 of my previous ones
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/132933
enjoy

 

Dam that looks good. Have fun with it,
________
Wholesale vaporizers

 

What kind of dyno was the run on?

 

dynojet. dyno sheet should be posted soon as sciondad finds time .

 

In my stage 0 I had this HUGE rattle at first. It was very random like you guys are saying. At first I thought it was a piston skirt or some sort of internals because it sounded some what similar to my busted Saturn (lost a piston, it had like 40 compression while the other 3 cylinders had 190). Anyways after taking the turbo off 3 times I found out the little disk for the internal waste gate on the 16g was not welded. Only the outside part was welded. When I tapped the internal waste gate disk it made a small clank sound. 20 mins latter and a trip to a mufflers shop with a welder. I installed my turbo again and the rattle was completely gone. I was sooooooooo happy. Hopefully this information will be helpful. Anyways good luck and happy boosting.

 

Added : https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=89753

 

Here is his dyno sheet.

 

May sound like a noob question....But isn't there a relative term for when the TQ curve and the HP curve cross? I thought there was a significant meaning behind at what RPM the two curves meet?

Anyone care to enlighten me, or am I just making stuff up?

 

god id love for my waste gate to be in the front like the current ones lol....awesome #s though ....im one step off of a stage 1.

 

not sure about the tq hp question, this is my first turbod car. as far as the wastegate in the front,yeah i like the look of it. my car is putting down decent numbers, but with the help of zpi shortly it will be much improved. after many phone calls to kenny we have decided that my car is not tuned properly and are gonna find out soon. i still have factory exhaust besides the trd catback which makes no difference, and they used a sniffer to tune my car. with a stock cat your a/f ratio is different then coming right out of the header where you need to take the reading from. so im gonna let them remap my emanage and go from there.

 

Yes, if you DO hear a tick, tick, tick sound (irregardless of consistency) coming from your tC's engine and can be heard from your driver's position, Please BE CAREFUL....

That IS typical pinging/knocking sound coming from Toyota's I-4 aluminum block

Either reduce your ignition advance timing/add more fuel at certain rpms where you hear the pinging. DON'T fool around with the engine and ignore the symptoms. Set it right and preserve the OEM reliability, it can be done

That is the holy grail of success To turn an NA into an FI w/o losing OEM driveability and reliability

Look at ScionDad for advice, auto cars are even harder to please and tolerances narrower for error, right Sciondad???

 

The HP/TQ curve will ALWAYS cross at 5252rpm. It's because of the mathematical equation to find horsepower. Take the torque, multiply that number by the rpm you're making the torque at, and then divide it by 5252. Because you're dividing the number by 5252, it'll always cross at that point on a dyno. For example... A car making 280lbs peak torque at 3500rpm will have about 187hp at that point. But past 5252, at the same torque, it'll make much more hp than tq. Sometimes HP can be relatively flat with torque because we usually hit peak torque at about 4000rpms then the torque starts to taper off. Because of that, we lose the extra HP we could have had, resulting in HP/TQ numbers that are relatively close.

 

my ticking noise is by far not a timing ticking noise. only reason why i say that is because it only ticks as it is warming up. once the car is warm the ticking subsides. this tells me its a gasket. i brought it to a tune shop, they heard the same thing and they agreed about the gasket. so i have a new gasket on order. i tried to use the oem gasket and im guessing thats the problem from the manifold. thats all i want is an oem drivable car with some kick when i step on the gas. is it really this hard to get it working right?

 

Oh I See

The manifold gasket, I presume is the problem.... its a double layer metal sheet gasket so maybe the heat expansion during warm up has something to do with it? or it is the exhaust gasket which is the donut size thingy? I don't think you have anything serious to worry about though

Once this issue is fixed, you will have a great OEM car with more juice

Cheers!