I actually thought about trading my car in for a new tC after I the bearing went on my 2nd s/c, especially after the engine went do to bearing shrapnel. It cost a lot to back to stock with parts, needed a new ECU and I didn’t exactly have time to find a used one from a junked tC. I was actually willing to trade my s/c car in for an N/A one just to save myself the trouble.

I’m not telling you to get the turbo because it’s better for performance or because everyone is doing it. I’m not even telling you not to get it. I’m just trying to look for others that are getting the blower and plan to mod the crap out of it. It’s a nice clean setup that will always look good for shows, will burn most all motor 4 cylinder N/A cars, and have the warranty if anything ever were to go wrong. I wouldn’t even think or going turbo if I still had a working, reliable s/c. Yes, I’m a serious performance person so that’s still hard to say.

 

Agreed. Boost stays below 3psi untill you're beyond 4k rpms, then peak off exponentially. I would guess this is why Toyota went with the blower, to keep boost pressure low on normal driving conditions. It is true that boost is always on but it's only making 2 psi most of the time. And honestly you don't feel it in that rpm range. Probably because what ever extra power you're making from the s/c is being lost driving it. The misconception is the s/c will give you this big bust of power on the low end, when really it just tops off the power curve.

 

umm...I think you have that backwards engifineer. S/C'er for the tC doesn't hit full peak PSI till Redline. You look at the dyno sheets, it's a linear power band.

Also to mention, our turbo kit (at least the ZPI kit) is not linear.

 

Thanks a lot for your guys's input, this has REALLY opened up my mind on the S/C and what I didn't know and what I already knew. Let's keep talking about see where else we land?

IF I were to go TURBO, I've already decided on either Turbonetics or Greddy. I'm sorry but I've heard bad things about ZPI and yes, some good things as well, but I can't allow myself to all of a sudden, spend that kind of money on something that I'm not 100% willing to put my trust in. I'm sorry.

I trust the dealership near me because they have done a VERY good job with everything else and their customer satisfaction is superb. I still want the S/C for that little extra boost, I will still have to get a BPV and intake and pulley, and of course, tune it with either Unichip (if I can find someone who can) or Greddy (I'm sure most of them around here can do that). And my Father will be doing the installation of pulley, BPV, and intake. He is a mechanic and knows his stuff. He takes his time, doing that kind of stuff slowly, to make sure everything is in working order. I trust him more than I trust the dealer, but of course, he has told me to take it to a dealer for warranty purposes. And we can always switch back to stock parts on the S/C in case we have a problem.

 

Nothing to appologize about, people have their reasons, others don't. We have a ZPI Stage 1 kit on ours, and it does nothing but justice for our car.

Just make sure you do your research though, as you didn't know the problems with the S/C'er, there isn't a single F/I company on here that hasn't had a few snags in their system.

 

Pfft, now you're just baiting me. The IX MR is a package of automobilic sex.

However, I would never....ever...recommend buying a used Evo unless you're willing to drop a ton of money into. Try and buy new if you can. 99% of Evo's sold are not at all babied by their owners. They're bought to be driven.

 

What I was stating was that a centrifugal SC is not making big power all the time, which is what he implied, and is wrong. A roots style charger will make more power earlier in the band than the centrifugal unit. That is the case with any SC comparison I have ever seen anyway and the reason most people dont like centrifugal style blowers.

 

If you dont have a tuner that is somewhat close to you you just answered your own question. The s/c is the way to go. I have had a s/c on my car for over a year and nad the mount break. They just redid the mounts and who knows what other tiny things they changed. As long as you are getting the new mounts w/ the s/c I think you will be happy.

And yes - it takes some modding to make the car quick. Just the s/c alone will not put you back into the seat.

With the s/c running stock boost you can get methanol and an emanage ultimate w/ pnp harness. If you run into issues you will be able to unhook your emanage and revert back to the stock setup. All that would be required would be to unplug the battery for 10min,plug it back in, let the car idle for 10min, drive it for 20min .....and your back to a stock s/c w/ a methanol setup. If you dont want the methanol pumping just unplug it.

I think this would be a good soluction for you. The tuning is going to make your car more fun to drive and give you more power while keeping your warranty somewhat there.

 

Gotcha..

 

well guys, thank you for all the input and so forth. I have actually found a place "near" me that can install and tune a turbo, it's in Milpitas and it's kind of far from me right now, but once I move to San Jose, I'll be A LOT closer.

Since I have found a place to both install AND Dyno tune, I am now GREATLY considering a Turbo. Turbonetics, Greddy, or Dezod. The Turbonetics and Greddy produce up to 240+whp, but the Dezod has a kit that can boost up to 295whp. I am leaning more towards Dezod, please give me input on that!

 

Don't get me wrong, I'm going Dezod but that 295whp was made at 10.5psi while the turbonetics and Greddy systems were set to 8.5psi.

 

What about zpi?

 

ZPI will still be in the same ball park when talking numbers at the same pai. They may even get a little more because they run open dump instead of re-circulated like all the others. Although Dezod offers a choice of down pipes and dump tubes including a CAT. ZPI has they smallest turbo which will spool up the fastest but to tell you the truth you probably wouldn't know the difference of any of these kits unless you stepped up to a larger A/R, more lag and top end power. I think you'll be fine with what ever choice you make, kit wise.

 

All of the kits can do 300whp, after you turn up the boost.

 

I have now decided to get a turbo. Most likely GReddy, cheapest and along with my other mods I'm going to get, it helps to keep the cost down. Check out my other thread and input your opinions there!

 

I ended up opting for a Mazdaspeed 3 GT.... TURBO BABY!!!