QFT!


Remember on a stock returnless system.. Injector 1 suffers a lack of fuel pressure compared to injector 4.


When u see a motor fail on a returnless tc... Its always Number 1 cylinder.

 

I know, I know. I've pretty much excepted that I'm going to have to and might as well while the motor is out again.

 

I know what he has - He said he wanted to be real cheap on the fuel system thats why I made my recommendation. His post was about power not drivability.

Go with 700s - 850s and a return for the best of both worlds

 

I appreciate the advice, as it's hard to come by. Honestly, I know getting to 400 is going to cost me. Saving money is one thing, but I want to do things right, whether that means shelling out the time and money for a return system or not. I didn't come this far to half-___ the job now. I don't really want to have to go through the hassle of running a return because I've never had to do one before....But I personally ripped my motor out, assembled it, installed it, and then took it back out (in 3 hours might I add), so how hard could it really be so long as I do the research? Unless it's something I don't trust myself enough to do (i.e. tuning), I refuse to pay anyone else to do something I know I can do myself.

 

Doing the fuel system is easier than you think.
Once you pull the pump housing out its easier to understand everything.

you took your motor out, disassembled, reassembled and reinstalled in 3 hours?

Getting to 400 is MUCH more involved than getting to 300whp

 

Haha, I was afraid it would sound that way. No, I PULLED the motor in 3 hours.

As far as the return, my biggest question still pertains to where the regulator goes.

 

its fun getting to those 2 bolts for the power steering pump when pulling the motor

anyways this is how it goes

example.. aeromotive -6 regulator

feed line going from pump goes to one side of the rail
other side of rail goes to side of regulator
bottom of regulator goes back into the tank
unused port on the side of the regulator gets plugged

 

Getting to them is easy, getting them off is the fun part. And no matter which one you decide to go at first, the second one is always harder because by that time everything is covered in power steering fluid from the first line you removed which does wonder for grip and leverage.

I was pretty sure that's the way it needed to be done with the regulator. If it was on the feed line before the rail I would think everything after the regulator would just easily flow back to the tank and provide sh*t for pressure, but I wasn't sure. Seems like the path of least resistance would be the line back to the tank leaving little to no pressure built up in the rail to feed the injectors.

How much line do you think I will need to run from the tank to the rail (using the stock line for the return)? Also, once I plug the stock fpr in the pump assembly, is there any risk of the Walbro over-pressurizing the feed line or will the aftermarket regulator COMPLETELY take care of that? I can't see the Walbro being able to provide more pressure then a decent regulator can regulate, but you never know...

 

for the power steering I unbolt the pump from the motor as not to lose any fluid.

I would get 15ft of fuel line - should have some extra when your done.

You answered your own question - The regulator regulates the pressure.

ive never used a stock feed line as a return line so i cant give any advice on that.

I used -6 on my whole fuel system.

stock base pressure is around 43

 

Some left over would be good, so I can use it to run from the regulator to the stock line. The only other thing to figure out is how to adapt the stock line to a 90 degree fitting at the tank to dump.

Thanks again for all the help.

 

drill a hole lol

go to summit - look up bulkhead fittings

also on summit they make a tool for cutting steel braided line its like $30. Buy it.

 

Yeah, but I mean how I am actually going to adapt the stock line to the fitting itself.

And why not just use a dremel or some other means of cutting (i.e. bolt cutters)?

 

cant give you any advice on using the stock feed line

but i will tell you again.. buy the cutting tool

 

I always just pull with the ps pump attached to motor and d/c the lines lol. Its always funny seeing how many diff methods people have used to pull the motor on the tc - ive seen at least 10-20 haha - ive pulled at least 4 diff motors now so i kinda have my own tried/true method down lol

 

Me too, power steering fluid is way too cheap to hassle with getting the pump off the motor with it in the car.

 

My chop saw cuts stainless steel braided hose just fine ;) haha

 

The bolt cutters sold to cut braided line are nothing more then over-priced cable snips. A quick google search turned up that most people just wrap it in electrical tape and then hit it with a cut off wheel (die grinder).

 

Im not trying to be a salesman its not like im making money if you buy the cutters

I am trying to give you advice. Spend the money on the tool it will save you A LOT of time

 

If you have a wide flat chisel and a hammer, that'll do the job.

 

this too