What is this curse of which you speak?

 

TCPETE, I CAN read. I was simply wondering why Elevation would attempt to push a Stage 4 CC clutch, which we have tested the limits on and proven it's upper limits are about 350ft/lbs. The man made 345ft/lbs.

Reference:

 

- blown clutches on cars proucing much less then the amount CC has rated the clutch for
- premature pressure plate fade (loosing its strength way to soon into the clutches life)
- blown springs from the disc
- TB chatter that is almost null and to hard to fix
- idle chatter or chatter after a brisk run that only stop when pressing down on the clutch and letting go again
- inconsistent clutch perfomance (some day grabbing well and feeling like a stg4 other days slipping in gears and feeling softer then an oem one grabbing)
- constant pedal adjustments to compensate for the clutch engagement performance

theres more but thats the jist of it... BTW some of these things happen on car not even pushing over 220 whp or TQ... and also some other makde/model ppl have reported this issue with the CCstg4 clutch...

 

Yikes. I hope my CC4 doesn't have these issues. I've been driving mine for a few months and its been fine, but I am still on relitively low horsepower (220ish). I do get a little chatter/squeal when I am taking off from stops, but I figured that was just part of having a higher performance clutch.

 

I have been driving a Stage 4 equipped customer's car for the past 2 weeks DAILY. We did have to adjust the clutch pedal for better engagement, which made the clutch feel much better.


- premature pressure plate fade (loosing its strength way to soon into the clutches life)---------His clutch has 17K ALL boosted miles on it. Car is a 2008 with over 30K on it.


- blown springs from the disc-----------Driver who tries to feather a race disc will have this happen.


- TB chatter that is almost null and to hard to fix----Need more elaboration on that.......


- idle chatter or chatter after a brisk run that only stop when pressing down on the clutch and letting go again------Never experienced that, and I have had to beat the snot out of this car.


- inconsistent clutch perfomance (some day grabbing well and feeling like a stg4 other days slipping in gears and feeling softer then an oem one grabbing)------Again, never experienced this.


- constant pedal adjustments to compensate for the clutch engagement performance------Nope. Just one was made, and she is fine where is at. Makes downshifts super easy.


I think this absolutely comes down to the install and driver, whom may or may not cause many of the issues mentioned above. I am not saying CC is the end all of clutches, but for the $$, you get a hell of a product.

 

what does a picture of a dyno sheet prove paul? his clutch was slipping way before reaching his final TQ outputs...and in all honesty if a clutch is rated for "said" amount and hes below it.. then "said" clutch should hold and he should only worry about his motor going before the clutch... that ccstg4 clutch isn't all that its cracked up to be.

hell my stg4 slipped a few times.. and im NA...

 

like i said before... some or most of us have had these issues... if "you" havent then thats awesome... but for the countless other i have talked to online with the same problems and the same clutch.. "We" do not feel as happy and apparently were not so lucky...my answers to your answer are in red above

and i can agree with you to some extent on driver or installation.. but when you have multiple with a good amount of experience installing these parts and have driven many cars with many clutches before.. you start to rule out some of these things... dont get me wrong.. i agree also for the money its a decent deal.. but at the same time.. i prefer quality or price.. and if i had known ahead of time i'd be waking up every day and worrying about how my clutch will react today then i would have just spent some more money and bought an ACT or CM clutch... not trying to be rude to you at all paul just voice my perspective on this.

 

stage 5 is crap mine lasted all of maybe 1000 miles from clutchmasters they wouldnt warante it and said it was my fault lol paul what kinda clutch do i need help a brother out

 

TCPETE, I am not here to argue with you man. I am merely stating my perspective from an outsider whom has a customer's car with this exact setup. He is only making 220ft/lbs to the tire, so maybe he is not making enough power yet to feel the effects of the clutch. However, I'd say with over 17K boosted miles since we installed his kit that his clutch is set to go.

As far as leaving the redline, I give it 2 quick revs to about 1.5K and just blip it off with a mere toe-flip downward, and I am moving. I do not know how anyone else does it, but it seems to work VERY well with this clutch on this car.

CC had some issues with some of their earlier editions of this clutch for this app, but have made a conscious effort to refine their part and make it better. They have changed the bearing, changed the discs, changed the pressure plate to keep this product heading in the right direction. You get a lot of companies whom sell this product, but are not direct dealers who are buying older inventory that a WD has been sitting on. This process still dilutes the quality of it because they are moving older units around and people are getting the problematic units.

Again, it's a product that is contingent upon the end users install, driving habits and experience. I am NOT pointing any fingers about ANYONE on here, but you get some 16 year old whom just learned to drive, had daddy buy the car for him and now the turbo. He gets a stage 4 to hold the tq and now destroys it because he can't even drive an OEM clutch well or at all.

The clutch in essence is on the same premise of any other product like a turbo kit of sorts. Some people are experienced, know what is going on, have a great experience and call it a day, while others do not and complain about EVERYTHING from dropping the oil pan, to having to mount the intercooler as well.

Moral of the story: Some people say Sham-WOW works, while others say it's a waste of $$.

(Comic relief to this thread)

 

Paul, just a few quick questions. I didn't realize that feathering out the CC Stage 4 is bad for it. Just curious why this is.

Also, what is the best way to adjust the clutch? I left mine where it was after the install. I had a clutch stopper behind my stock one so I had to relearn how to shift my car, but I imagine that adjusting it would help me out.

So far, I have a few thousand miles on my CC4 and I really like it. The only thing I don't like about it is that it is a lot more "grabby" than the stock one which is a good thing, but it makes me self-conscious when I am giving people rides that don't understand why my car is a little more rough of a ride than a normal car. haha

 

thats fine and dandy... but the ppl who i have seen using this clutch and experience the issues im having are seasoned veteran driver.. me driving stick for over 8 years, and a few others who have walked the ballpark many times over also having the same issues... Just myself ive installed many clutches before. infact on the tc i did 3 before i did mines and all have no issues with their clutch (but they are using other brand companies odly enough)... and they have had no issues.. even when i installed mines i did everything to the T even with experienced help and toyota techs aside working with me... nothing was installed incorrectly and even broke in the clutch well over 1k miles before getting on it..

i drive it daily and do exactly what you say.. blip it till 1.5k rpms and slowly let it grab itself till i get going.. thats how ive always driven this clutch...

BTW i even bought this clutch from you... so would it be possible you sold me an old clutch then?... to go along with what your saying.. then i myself would be one of the ones who have been screwed getting an old clutch needing a refinement...

 

Pete, if you bought your clutch from ANY dealer within the past 8 months (in theory assuming no issues I mentioned above) you should be fine. Anytime before that was a transition phase for them with all of the refinements.

You can try to flip the script anyway you like sir, but understand I am trying to clarify and help. We did not MAKE the clutch.

 

here is my stage 5 destruction tell me what you think in wrong

 

I know perfectly well YOU did not make the clutch.. I am not throwing YOU under the bus... I am mearly voicing my opinion on this subject with this clutch.. which BTW like i said before.. I bought it from you on 7/14/08 ... installed 3 days later with the cc 12lb flywheel.. im looking at the invoice right here infront of me... so i guess "my" clutch did not fall between the grace period of "refinement" as it was bought over 12 months ago... which is why i said earlier in this thread i will be contacting comp clutch if the problem really puts a sleepless burden on me...

 

my CCstage4 failed... my disc was perfect and my flywheel was perfect, so nobody can say i was bieng a noob driver, there was only 1 tiny glaze spot on the disc, the plastic TOB CC gives u completely took a crap and caused the pressure plate to fail and loose 5 prongs off of it lol, although i do have another CC item in my car now and i cant wait to test it out :D BTW ill be selling a CCstage 4 NEW in box and NEW flywheel soon, as soon as it gets mailed to me

 

A race disc is NOT meant to be feather like an OEM. The sprung hub assembly allows for SOME feathering, but not a hell of a lot.

 

Indeed it was past 8 months. So, you where during the start of the changes being made by them.

 

Pete send it back and see what happens....

 

Ok... Let me chime in now....

First off.. Im a dealer For COMP CLUTCH. Directly through them! Great people great cust service!

OK... Now let me stat the fact on my end!

My CC stage 4 failed at 9 PSI a mear 330WHP 330FT LB!

Also, WHEN my clutch failed, i was using an OLDER pressure plate that has now been improved upon!

When i ordered this clutch and still, they rate there disk at over 350ft lb tq! It was merrly an issue with the older plate having less pedal pressure then a newly imporved one!

Also the diffrence between a 4 puck and a 6 puck is NOT 100 WHP.. And a stage 5 with my pressure plate would of failed the same if not SOONER!

I recently removed a newer stage 4 comp clutch disk and pressure plate from a customer of mine who has 19+ PSI and over 400 whp WITH 0 glazing! Showing there new stuff is MUCH improved!

Paul, coming on here and asking why i used it is kind of out of line! Your a great guy, great buisness great knolege and have helped me out ALOT! But Do not know what i was promised when i bought it through them! They were sent the dyno sheet and replaced the clutch! And as well your site says 350fl lb yet i was at 345! Your only making this issue stick out, and cause more people to hear about it..

So.. im going to end me posting more about this issue and say this...

A NEW stage 4 disk will hold MORE THEN 400WTQ FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE!

CC has great Cust service and will go out of there way to help anyone!