didn't give yourself enough time to be flamed.

 

haha i should have known better... but hey its what they wanted and i don't have anything else to do at work lol...

 

So everything worked out man? I am glad if it did. Good luck with your boost, and can't wait to see your progress.

 

How much was the fix for the S/C? Care to share?

 

+1

 

$300 to get it rebuilt? That's not bad at all.

 

^Definetly better than $3000 for a new kit.

 

now if a rebuild kit could just be offered to area dealers.....

 

Hey man, I am soo glad everything worked out. Lets hope that I dont need to send my new unit to get fixed.. haha..

 

dam, thats it...I would blow this thing up every year just to rebuild it for $300...yo dude, find out if they will replace my compressor wheel with a G trim and I will send out my blower to them tommorow

 

^Hey Vito I talked to ripp mods about it and they said it wouldn't work but you can check this place

I just emailed them about it so I'll keep you informed

 

I've been keeping tabs on the threads on this problem faced and can't help but think if the engine oil is the problem blowing the seals

I read from the instal manual of the s/c that 5w30 oil is recommended as the car uses it, but my experience has previously taught me that thin oil will get thinner in viscosity when the engine gets hot, not to mention when you are f/ing an n/a engine.

The weather is constantly around 80F or more and travelling times are relatively long, using a heavier weight oil will help.

For me in constant 90F weather and 75% humidity, I always use at least 5w40 or 10w50 for f/i (turbo) Can't say for sure about the TRD centrifugal s/c though... No experience with it but the interest is there

I read somewhere before that slower (higher viscosity) oil cools the hot parts more effectively as it has more 'time' to absorb the substrate heat before going back to the oil sump. An auxiliary external oil cooler for the engine is also one other way to maintain the oil weight relatively constant under load situations.

Back to topic......

The general consensus on the s/c issue lies with :

1) Faulty instal (allen bolts too damn tight)
2) Aftermarket headers radiating more heat to the driveshaft
3) Shaft imbalance instal
4) Design/manufacturing defect
5) Oil drain back to oil sump instal faulty
6) Wrong oil weight used (my opinion)

Personally, I think its a combo of all things that come into play. Headers should not affect the shaft as the engine bay is already hot to begin with even on the stock tC (have you put your hand near the heatshield after a run?)

For all the homies who had noticed some oil appearing on the shaft or near it and gettin' paranoid about it, have you considered using a heavier weight oil? Perhap by using redline 5w40 or Torco 10w50 would eliminate this issue with the seals thus saving the time, hassle, heartache and money to send it to Vortech/Rippmods for repairs....

Ask your local tuner for advice on the oil weight issue, if they are knowledgeable about all aspects of f/i (whether turbo or s/c), they would point the right direction

Good luck guys, great to see boosted tCs spanking them Evos and Rexs...

 

feh.


heat shield didn't solve the problem, by the way. so now im waiting on emails

 

So you have a leak with the heat shield on a header?

 

Yes. Granted, I swapped the pulley, but hey, I'm still gonna be ____ed off about it if not surprised.

Sent off an email to that Springfield place, one to a local shop, one to Vortech themselves, and one to a local Subaru dealership.

~_~

 

I was going to say this was evidence of a faulty install being the cause, but damn, you have the pulley...At least it eliminates the header excuse.

 

i dunno man - through research and talking to people that know more then do do ......a falty install prob is the source. that is why the new chargers come corrected and the older chargers that werent sold were opened up and an install paper was put in them. Heat on the other hand is the enemy. I know guys running the s/c w/ header and arent worried about the heat (and have had no problem) ...but i dunno. see how it goes man.

 

This was a newer charger. I let it run a little over 500 miles before I started doing things. Swapped back my Umnitza, changed the pulley and then had some fun. And less than a thousand miles later, I find it.

So now..I either get it fixed, or I get it pulled off and trade in the tC for something else

 

I've been recently informed that uneven torque on the allen bolts could be the cause of this as well.

When I had my heat shield fabricated, the welder unbolted one of the allen bolts and used it as a mounting point for it. I asked him if he torqued it back down and he said he just tightened down as much as he thought the others were.

So I'll be checking that tonight

 

That could be part of it.