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Scion tC 1G Forced Induction Turbo and supercharger applications...

SoFloTC destroyed manifold FIXED lol.

Old Jun 8, 2009 | 07:22 PM
  #81  
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the rear one doesnt match up well with the ptuning exhaust i dont believe.. it got shredded last time lol, we actually had to trim it up a tad bit
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 09:27 PM
  #82  
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Take the manifold to a welder and have him completly reweld the manifold, and have a spare. I have a zpi kit so I know a thing or two about cracked manifolds.
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 09:46 PM
  #83  
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my tuner says he can get it rewelded and itll be stronger that way.. so i guess thats what im gonna do, i just ordered the correct " spring bolts " from dezod.. hopefully this doesnt happen again... this is a neverending pain in my life.
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 11:06 PM
  #84  
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stop crying and move on lol! atleast your driving it and i am walking hahahaha
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 11:10 PM
  #85  
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im not driving it.. its not driveable now lol.. the turbo is literally free floating.. the manifold is split in half..
Old Jun 8, 2009 | 11:21 PM
  #86  
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hey atleast you can go outside and see your car! lol either way you still got a car i've been carless2 months now!
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 06:42 AM
  #87  
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well pictures can say a thousand words... here are some new pics.. this is exactly how it looks.. nothing was tampered with at all.. the break was all the way around like i said.. and then i compared a dime and the actual manifold copper gasket to the manifold thickness just for fun. 1 week of not having spring bolts = manifold failure..

hmm... lol







Old Jun 9, 2009 | 06:48 AM
  #88  
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bad prep on the weld trust me i asked my friend just sent him this link he called me told me he is a gas pipe welder he knows about prep he said they didnt put enought heat on the weld thats why it has no pen on the log to the flange should be easy to fix i would grind off all that weld get a propper prep on it and weld it very nice
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 06:54 AM
  #89  
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ya im getting it welded again, it will be much stronger, if dezod would have taken some credit for this bad weld i wouldnt of posted them but.. everything is my fault i guess lol..
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 07:53 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by coryjames
bad prep on the weld trust me i asked my friend just sent him this link he called me told me he is a gas pipe welder he knows about prep he said they didnt put enought heat on the weld thats why it has no pen on the log to the flange should be easy to fix i would grind off all that weld get a propper prep on it and weld it very nice
Am I missing something here? It looks like it broke after the weld not the weld itself, maybe stronger steel wouldn't have broke or thicker manifold.
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 08:06 AM
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recall ?
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 11:45 AM
  #92  
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i dunno that metal looks thin.

the shop that built mine seen a "tc manifold" and it was made from very thin metal as well!

We chose 10 gauge steel for mine.! Custom man!
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 01:03 PM
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looks kinda thin to me too.. lemme see if i can see some pics of my mani from the inside
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 01:13 PM
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wow. that's all u can say to that. safe to say TT/or Ptuning> dezod
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 01:30 PM
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well dezod is good too.. this could be just a combination of install issue and a bad batch.. cant really discredit them just for this one..
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 01:49 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by SoFloTC
ya im getting it welded again, it will be much stronger, if dezod would have taken some credit for this bad weld i wouldnt of posted them but.. everything is my fault i guess lol..
There is NO credit to take. The item failed because of your improper or your installers improper installation, which lead to the manifold being the pivotal point on the exhaust system. You must not have read or understood Don's post.

Originally Posted by DezodDon

I would agree if this was a Tubular manifold but log manifolds made from Sch 40 304 SS are damn near bomb proof.......however. If you do not use the supplied spring bolts that are supplied with the kit you then remove the area that is supposed to pivot. Without this pivot point you have an exhaust that now acts like a giant pry bar.

Originally Posted by Ace83
maybe something to look into on the long run is a flex joint on the dp or spipe... it reduces stress on the manifold as the engine moves when driving hard or with some chassis movements
Without the springs in there to allow flex, you now have a full exhaust hard bolted with no flex point. Over time the movement and vibration will crack any weld.

You need a flex point. Whether it's a ball and socket using springs or an exhaust flex joint.

As you all can see here by the pictures that SoFloTC sent us of his setup there are no spring bolts used.

Originally Posted by paul_dezod
Originally Posted by SoFloTC



couldnt really position my arm to get a side view but its bolted up perfect no room for any kind of leak or anything
Originally Posted by paul_dezod
Originally Posted by SoFloTC


that washer seems to be a little out of place lol :X still all the way tightened.[/img]
The stock header to S-pipe come with spring bolts, we supply spring bolts for the new s-pipe and downpipe. If they are not used you remove the flex out of the system, if you remove the flex out of ANY car with a turbo on it you are guaranteed to crack a manifold. In the final picture you can see that the flange is bending as well. It should not bend, because there should be a spring bolt assembly used there. There isn't even a donut gasket in there. WTF????:/

So with that said.............how is this Dezods fault?

We spend alot of time, effort and MONEY to make sure our products are as user friendly and dependable as possible. We do our best to take care of any customer complaints or questions. We must draw the line of where we take fault for something, especially when this is clearly not a manufacturer defect but more a user install error.

We provide clear instructions on our website about installing the kit. If you do not feel confident with those instructions to install the turbo kit then I would recommend taking it to a performance shop that is experienced. If someone else installed this then you should be seeking compensation from them.

We offered you a manifold at cost the first time not even knowing the circumstances. Now knowing the circumstances of how this failed we are expected to offer you a free manifold. I'm sorry but I just don't see how this is our fault.

I'm really sorry you have had this problem. If this was our fault I'm sure we could do something to take care of you but in all the kits we have produced and installed we have not seen this kind of failure. We have customers that still have their kits and have put over 60k on them. No problems.

We also have sold more kits than anyone out there so to compare Turbo Toyotas or any other kit to ours is like comparing apples to oranges, not to mention that with more kits out there pure math states your odds are higher for complaints. Which I might add, we have had very little and when and if there are problems we address them.

It's a log manifold, it's supposed to be simple to avoid these problems. It's a fairly simple kit that is meant to be reliable and supply decent power. There is very little to go wrong on the kit. I hate to say it but 9 times out of 10 if there is a problem it's usually a user error. Those of you that think that a tubular weld elbow manifold is stronger are completely wrong. Properly designed tubular manifolds have the capability to make more power on higher boost levels but they are heavier and much more prone to cracking. For proof of this do a search on Honda-Tech. That community has been turboing cars longer than any other sport compact. Big names like full race, AFI, Omni fab etc. All of them fail and they all have problems over time. It's the nature of the beast sometimes. While log manifolds may not make the most power they are hands down the most reliable due to their simple construction next to a cast manifold.

Everyone is right though, this is not a career ending failure. Fix it and keep trucking.
Cliff notes in case he lost you:
Due to improper installation of the downpipe and it's install kit, lacking these essential pieces (such as the donut gasket and spring loaded bolt assembly) which allow for pivot, movement, and preservation of similar geometry to OEM; you made the manifold the pivitol point when the engine torques. Add 3000+ lbs of force rocking, twisting and pulling on any manifold, and it will break.

The donut gasket and spring loaded bolts, where clearly not installed on your kit, which you sent pictures to me and I forwarded to Don and he posted above. The hard mount on the downpipe and s-pipe made the entire assembly stress and fail the way it did.

As you all can see here by the pictures that SoFloTC sent us of his setup there are no spring bolts used.

Originally Posted by paul_dezod
Originally Posted by SoFloTC



couldnt really position my arm to get a side view but its bolted up perfect no room for any kind of leak or anything
Originally Posted by paul_dezod
Originally Posted by SoFloTC


that washer seems to be a little out of place lol :X still all the way tightened.[/img]
[/img]
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 01:53 PM
  #97  
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Apparently a few of you missed the thread on the other page which explained WHY his manifold failed. I may post another thread with a recap as to why this failed as well because there are PLENTY of people including our OP that do not understand the premise of the hardware included with their kit.

The entire manifold is made from Schedule 40 304 SS. He had rigidly DESTROYED the collector portion of the manifold due to improper installation of the downpipe.
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rosedaleny806
wow. that's all u can say to that. safe to say TT/or Ptuning> dezod
I usually agree with you but that is a completely incorrect statement.

You come to this conclusion base on 1 manifold? Well in this case 3 hehe.

The installation is incorrect though, without those springs that allow flexing I can see how this happened now. Look at how the flange is flexing due to how much torque was applied to those bolts which just is not going to happen with the spring loaded bolts.

Not to mention you're comparing Dezod to TT, pure volume of kits sold normally means a higher number of failures due to pure volume. The math just does not compute.

Perhaps this wouldn't have happened if proper installation had occurred, maybe it would have anyway but it is impossible to tell.

If anything I think its better for it to have broken at the manifold than break the flanges on the downpipe and s-pipe. Its cheaper to get fixed being that it is just the manifold an the downpipe and s-pipe on't have to be replaced.

I think if the manifold is welded and the spring loaded bolts are used it would not fail again.

I can't fault Dezod for not footing the bill on this one. This is a step that is in their installation instructions online. Even if he had not gotten the bolts and springs originally that would've been caught following the instructions online and could have been obtained.

Dezod, P-tuning and TT are all awesome companies, no need in bashing one because of, what seems to be a missed step of the install, despite the other many satisfied customers.

Anyway lets get er' welded and back installed the right way, gasket and springs FTMFW!
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 02:47 PM
  #99  
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Default My son Chad

Hello everyone this is Chads mom, Tammy. I am reading all these posts and just want to say I understand where everyone is coming from. Im the one footing the bill and Chad DID waste a hell of alot of money at a shop that did this install....I will not say names but he knows who he is. Now we have someone who is very good!!!! Olympic Motors...LUIGI...Anyhow I just want this car to run...and for Chad to be happy. I thank DEZOD for treating my son kindly!!! And thank all of you that support him.

Having said that...I need to get these springs and bolts for him so tell me where to go on your (DEZOD) site please.

Chads gonna kill me!!!!!!
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 02:53 PM
  #100  
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Triple post from the mom! Oops!

I would suggest email Paul and see if he can get you the springs/donut and such that is needed: paul@dezod.com.

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