^^ at one point I was upgrading my hydra to unlock the autotune, hydra asked me to send them my map for unlock.. got it back and worked.. then I decided to go back to my old files and loaded.. then it wouldnt start anymore, told hydra what happened and he said I shouldnt have used my old maps coz that just locked my entire box. Then tried several settings until we ended up changing the triggers

 

 

ace you ever hear the phrase if it aint broke dont fix it!!!...lol

 

leak test will be next.. hopefully that would be the problem than a more expensive or serious one. I just didnt put the leak problem on top now coz at high rpms my wastegate still cant keep up w/ the turbo, my spring pressure is 5.8 psi and i could still reach 7 and on cold weather 8psi.. I know i should check for leaks regardless, im just thinking there could be something on the cylinder head not making it move air

 

lets hope ur luck isnt like mine, got the motor all buttoned up and been running turbo for about three weeks, now the turbo seals are gone again. Motor is perfectly fine but curse this bad luck!!!

 

lolz

 

Looks like a boost leak test is the only thing left to do right now then im gonna have to open up the motor.. anything else

 

Sorry ace, ive been super super busy.. today ill check out the map..

 

Ace if your compression is fine and your motor runs smoothly and idles smoothly, I doubt it's a motor issue.

It must be tuning related - from settings on the Hydra to the actual fuel/timing maps.

 

how do you know your at mbt?

Are you monitoring knock? Did you add the point it didint make more tourqe/hp?

 

^^ no prob man.. whenever you can.

Im trying to understand VCTi tuning right now, for some reason it changed from my previous map maybe after I rescaled my rpm vs boost table.

 

Best way to know you're at MBT is to be on a load bearing dyno.

You are at a certain rpm on the rollers, then apply the amount of load you want to tune - while applying the load and trying to keep all temps constant, take a torque reading. Then increase timing a little and taking another read - if you keep gaining torque, continue until it doesn't gain you anything anymore. Then back off to the timing you were at before torque leveled off. This should be your MBT. Now you might not always be able to get to MBT without experiencing knock - so you want to make sure you're monitoring knock with a stethescope or however else you want.

 

Ace - I'm not too familiar with the 2.5 but one thing that bothers me is your axes being flip flopped. I tried to flip them but it doesn't work. Is that how you normally tune your car? load on the x axis and rpm on the y?

 

Knock is almost impossible to hear, everything on the car is too loud.. the sound was steady throughout though. But actually i have to increase the knock threshold above 5K rpms coz its seems like its a false knock- notice the blue line on the dyno that dip is due to knock retard and fuel add, I raised the knock voltage thresh and corrected the afr add 2 degrees more and the result is the red is the 215 hp

I did very little adjustment on the bottom end (torque area) since I didnt have much problem with the torque, I just added 1 degree and added bit more fuel and i easily got almost 10 hp

 

Ace - that's why you use a mechanic's stethoscope. You hear knock before your stock knock sensor will even detect it.

Setting your knock threshold is useless if you don't know truly what your safe knock counts are btw.

 

I bet also that maybe you're pulling timing when you don't know it- from knock threshold or maybe some other 2D map you have enabled.

 

rob the 2.6 is much easier coz its uses same 32x32 resolution like the main maps on the PWM maps like vtci, on 2.5 below i think just 26x26 it would have to be rescaled

 

^^ Nevermind that last idea - I just saw your datalog.

 

Aside from the knock threshold, Im monitoring knock based on the torque/hp increase, thats why i decided to stop advancing when I corrected the afrs on top and after 2 degrees more advanced and only yield about 10hp i figured out im will no longer make power and the next will be a knock if I go some more. I dont have that mechanic steth, i dont have experience how effective that is... you think thats a very good tool?


Im basing my timing on my datalog not on the main spark map, i checked all my spark trims and its not showing retard.. The datalog also shows if ignition is retarded or fuel added during a knock event.

 

In addition to this, we were thinking that i might be over the MBT thats why I im loosing power but no, we pulled few degrees and I made even less hp i think its 18*ish.. thats why I kept advancing instead and raised the knock threshold then stopped when I figured at 25 degrees I should have done way better than 215 hp