This is what I think you should do..

Remember you're on E85 - you'll reach MBT at higher timings than on regular gas. Keep that in mind while tuning.

Get or build a stethoscope - here's a link http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drive...c-det-can.html

You'll just have to get used to your "normal" noises and distinguish knock sounds.. but usually it's a popcorn sounding noise - or quick random spats.

Raise your knock threshold high - cuz you really don't know what it is yet. Tune your car to MBT (keep going if you're making torque) and stop when you don't make torque, or you hear slight knock. The good thing about the stethoscope is the knock you hear will is not as severe as audible knock without one.

I would also revisit your Hydra settings.. they don't look right.

 

^^ I got all those covered rob, that why im breaking my head here lol

My timing is 25 degrees- I didnt go higher coz im not making power- Afrs is around 12 afr
On the lower rpm, I feel i got good room for timing there but didnt go any further as its the mid high to higher rpms Im having problem with. Coolant and Water temp pretty the same too

My old 93 octane map is around 18 - 20 degrees- power was the same but torque was lesser

Like I said, the engine noise remains steady, no popping sound/crackling sound that i've carefully watched for.. Stethoscope I should try that

Raised knock threshold- yes thats what I did

Which Hydra settings doesnt look right? if the triggers- my car wouldnt start if I change it and it would lock my box even if I load back my current settings map, thats a clear warning that Hydra gave me.. He said it will not have anything to do with the tuning..

Im planning to redo it again, same principles but I just want to figure out what else have I missed before I drop more cash on the dyno.. The hp i make doesnt even make sense, everyone who owns a turbo tc knows something isnt right but v8 guys like the guy who tuned w/ me would say I guess thats it

 

I hear your frustration man - but i'm not sure what Hydra means by that. I've used several different maps - even converting older maps to new versions and never had an issue with being locked out.

 

i miss being turbo =(

 

I say revert back to a 1 step colder plug and retune. Also do a boost leak test, as there may be something there you're not seeing. With the size turbo you have and running e85 you should be 275+ hp and tq easy.

 

any updates on this? i feel like im experiencing something similar. it doesnt seem to pull nearly as hard as it used to, more like stock if anything, yet all the gauges read right. looking to do a boost leak and compression test tomorrow

 

^^ how much are you making?

will do a boost leak test as soon as I get a chance.. I have a gt3076r turbo w/ .60 a/r.. with pump gas I should be easily at 280 at 7-8 psi.. What is strange is I make torque 250 at 5 psi but doesnt make power at all, 215 at 7 psi lol.. Even the spool is quick too with some boost creep

 

Ace your torque actually doesn't look right either.

Your max torque on the graph is at 3500rpm but it should be later than that.. that makes me think your torque should be much higher than 250 - I would guess nearly 300.

Did you look more into your VVTi map? I remember you saying the map looks different?

Oh and Ace - by the way - I'm not sure why this is because I cannot find the logic behind it.. but the settings I showed you worked for a particular '05-'06 TC.. but my car didn't like those settings. Mine were very similar except my triggers worked with Fall/Any instead of your Any/Any (Edge/Edge for 2.5). It's strange -you'd think all TCs should have the same basic setup.

 

Im guessing it is something to do with fueling... Maybe your widebands off! and your seeing knock because its lean..

Or maybe timing triggers are off.

OR... I dunno.. i still have to look at the map!

 

It definitely is tuning related. Mike according to his datalogs, the knock voltages are low.

Ace when I get home I'll have to take a better look at your map on the 2.5 software. I just hate the flipped axes.

 

Also this is stock motor right.. Base timing is spot on?

Even when 2fast4u tuned his car with no vvti it still made good power..

Ill be tuning my bike on e85 soon.. Hope i dont have same problems!

 

Well even though his voltages are low, its because he pulled timing to keep them low!..

If the car was leaning out. he would see knock early on!

Ace try just riching it up a little bit and see if it will take more timing with out knock.. Like i said maybe ur widebands worn out!

 

His timing is high.. he's in the mid to high 20's WOT at 6-7psi.

Knock timing retard reads zero accross the board.

The only thing I did notice was that from 4000 or so to redline he gained a psi.. so that could be a small boost leak. But still - a boost leak that small should not be causing such a large loss of power.

 

But since hes tuning off of map, a boost leak would not matter much as in a maf based car!

timing seems right on the money.


What dyno is this?

 

expecially since coryjames states hes making 400 at 8 psi... And stock timing starts off at about 19 degrees and drops to around 15 past 4500 rpms!

 

Yeah I can go up with the torque more but I did not tune that area really for MBT coz i was really focusing getting the hp right on the top.. Also as rpms goes up the loss of power problem become more obvious as you can see the torque line dropped quick.

VVTi map, yeah its weird how it came a little altered.. But I never remembered changing them, i went back to my old maps and they were same as the map you sent me.. Maybe it changed when I rescaled my rpms and boost figures but im still tracing when it started to change.

And for the record, I've always had problem with hp on the top end since I was first tuned, i made 230hp at 10 psi with 240 tq im not even sure if they were true numbers coz my tune now pulls harder for some reason and now w/ more steady afr. I changed my 2.5 to full 3 inch exhaust since after that tune maybe it would free more hp


From what I remembered talking with Andrew NAm, he said the each box has a different trigger settings for each car specific, some triggers are locked for safety reason coz they shouldnt be adjusted by the end user.. He walked me through tons of settings and passwords, even off on key sequence something. It was too technically I absolutely dont understand what we were doing that time all i did was follow step by step while he accurately anticipates what is gonna happen. At the end I asked what did we just did? lol he said all he did was unlock all my trigger settings (still dont know what is that), and he said from now on, never load anyone's map or my map to anyone coz my box is gonna be different.. It will have nothing to do with my maps or tune or affect it in anyway as those where just triggers and further tuning will be the same.

 

wth dyno are you using?
lol

 

Mike we used 3 different widebands during the tune, I have the AEM gauge, the hydra L2H2 for datalog and the dyno wideband they are almost dead on.

And oh the knock voltage ramp will always read voltage even on light cruise as they reflect normal engine noise.. I actually started rich and make even more low power and as we leaned it out we gained more. Along with increasing the knock threshold. Hydra might have a different strategy than aem when it comes to knock map

 

dynojet, its weird i thought dynojet arent chassis but this one is

 

Ace - for s&g (***** & giggles) try another Dyno just to eliminate that from the equation. Don't change any part of your map and just go to another dyno to see.