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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 02:32 AM
  #41  
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I haven't seen the venom setup on a tC, as most of us use the ZEX setup... but I've heard it's a great one... Some of the Venoms are dang Pricey though.
Old Aug 26, 2006 | 08:57 PM
  #42  
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an 1/4 times ?
Old Aug 27, 2006 | 02:35 AM
  #43  
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ok since venom likes to be difficult, can anyone tell me how to formulate orifice size into hp? is there even a way? Venom likes to give 3 nozzles per kit depending on engine size, so the 4cyl kit came with 0.025 : 0.030 : and : 0.035 all in inches i suppose, could be cm, but im pretty sure its inches... they also tell me its a progressive system so i will not feel the big jerk you feel in other systems as per "fnf or 2f2f" i wanna know if my system is actually putting out alot, so can anyone help me figure out a formula ..or is it just best go take a dyno and see if there's any substansial increase... thanks guys
Old Aug 27, 2006 | 02:47 AM
  #44  
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has anyone used a nytrex system before? Superfa sells their triple threat systems which looks pretty snazzy. Combine it with a window switch, remote bottle opener, and a bottle warmer and you should be good to go.

If the shot is added via a progressive controller, do you think that the nitrous could be sprayed in say... 2nd?
Old Aug 28, 2006 | 02:44 AM
  #45  
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I ran a zex 75 shot for over a year on my car and never had an issue.....no added ecu management.... I agree sounds electircal!
Old Aug 28, 2006 | 08:34 PM
  #46  
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[quote="unvdistc"]I ran a zex 75 shot for over a year on my car and never had an issue.....no added ecu management.... I agree sounds electircal![/quote

DO you know how much whp you where pushing with the 75 shot?
Old Aug 28, 2006 | 10:39 PM
  #47  
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[quote="KrazyTc"]
Originally Posted by unvdistc
I ran a zex 75 shot for over a year on my car and never had an issue.....no added ecu management.... I agree sounds electircal![/quote

DO you know how much whp you where pushing with the 75 shot?
No never got the dyno done.... i'm doing a dyno next week but I have added a lot of performance parts...i.e. PPHead, 8.5:1 pistons, and other internals. If you want to know what it is with those and nos let me know and i will post it here.... i will be posting it on my update "unvdistc turbo, perfomance and motor swap thread" (link below)
Old Aug 29, 2006 | 12:58 AM
  #48  
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oh yea thats cool. Im thinking about doing a 75 shot. But im waiting on my intake to come out for the 07 so i can get one.
Old Aug 29, 2006 | 07:54 PM
  #49  
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I want to run at least a 75 shot.

If I don't run it all that often (track only) via a progressive control to try and maintain traction, do you all think a 100 shot is *safe*?
Old Aug 29, 2006 | 08:15 PM
  #50  
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Make sure that after you are spraying that yo fuel isnt leaking
Old Aug 29, 2006 | 08:32 PM
  #51  
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Howdy fellas...

We had a stall issue in Nates car when we first installed his system...your issue does sound electrical, but we solved Nates issue by leaning out the fuel jet a touch. Car ran much faster, too. The factory recommended jet sizes are very fat to keep you safe. These are also universal kits, and have to make every car happy. We are running a 50shot correctly making more power than the 75 shot by the factory jet sizes.

As far as the 1st and 2nd gear uselessness comment...you just gotta learn to drive the car. Launch is everything in a drag race, and leaving power on the table instead of on the pavement is a huge mistake.

This guy running a 55 shot should have no problems launching and running through every gear. Go to the track and watch some of the fast cars...they launch with everything they have. If you're spinning tires, get better rubber...if you have decent rubber, then practice your launch untill you have it right. We're only talking about a couple hundred HP here...it's not too hard to handle.

Progressive controller and window switchs are a great thing, but for this application making so little power with very little danger to the equiptment I say just drive the car...don't let it drive you!

If there's any questions anyone has feel free to PM me here or on my site SuperFa.com ...I don't know too much, but it may be one of the few things I can help with.

Shawn
Old Aug 29, 2006 | 11:45 PM
  #52  
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Usually the first mod after a power adder is located between the seat and the steering wheel.
Old Aug 30, 2006 | 04:13 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by zer0
Usually the first mod after a power adder is located between the seat and the steering wheel.
Old Sep 7, 2006 | 03:21 AM
  #54  
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Total noob to nitrous= me, but

I have a 2005 auto with about 14,000 miles and I'm looking for some power! I've looked into turbos but I don't think it's something I can afford on my college budget, the s/c would be nice but its hellish expensive so now I'm looking into nitrous!

What kits are the best? Wet or Dry and whats the cost difference?
I want to run something small as to try and avoid problems... I've read on nitrous websites that if done correctly it's perfectly harmless to your engine.

Safety issues? I dunno it just sounds scary cause people bash it and others praise it! I wanted to hear from people that actually have it on their tC!

Anything else i need to know?
Old Sep 7, 2006 | 06:19 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Bluechualappa
Total noob to nitrous= me, but

I have a 2005 auto with about 14,000 miles and I'm looking for some power! I've looked into turbos but I don't think it's something I can afford on my college budget, the s/c would be nice but its hellish expensive so now I'm looking into nitrous!

What kits are the best? Wet or Dry and whats the cost difference?
I want to run something small as to try and avoid problems... I've read on nitrous websites that if done correctly it's perfectly harmless to your engine.

Safety issues? I dunno it just sounds scary cause people bash it and others praise it! I wanted to hear from people that actually have it on their tC!

Anything else i need to know?
I have been running a Zex wet kit for over a year and a half now. I started with the 55 shot but quickly went to the 75! I have had no issues!
Old Sep 7, 2006 | 08:40 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Bluechualappa
Total noob to nitrous= me, but

I have a 2005 auto with about 14,000 miles and I'm looking for some power! I've looked into turbos but I don't think it's something I can afford on my college budget, the s/c would be nice but its hellish expensive so now I'm looking into nitrous!

What kits are the best? Wet or Dry and whats the cost difference?
I want to run something small as to try and avoid problems... I've read on nitrous websites that if done correctly it's perfectly harmless to your engine.

Safety issues? I dunno it just sounds scary cause people bash it and others praise it! I wanted to hear from people that actually have it on their tC!

Anything else i need to know?
Howdy Blue,

Glad to see more interest...don't let the FATF crowd scare ya off...Nitrous is REALLY fun and cheap to get into!!! Hope you're ready to read a novel

I posted an article on my forum about the US Govt using it during WWII to outpower the Japanese Zero when it was first introduced. We were so much slower than the new planes that we started spraying the ____ out of our stuff to keep up!

Anyways...there's plenty of different opinions about weather to use wet or dry. I'll just add my 2 cents...

Dry is great for the fella that just wants to play around and have a modest performance increase! The stock tC fuel system can safely handle in excess of a 75hp jump, but if you're like me and want to be completely safe keep it under 50hp and you'll be very happy! The cars cpu will provide the additional fuel required and there's very little to do other than basic maintenance to the system and solenoid. There's also no fuel in the intake to ignite on a backfire...One of our cars (5sp tC) totally walked away (3 cars) from a TRD blown tC with exhaust with nothing more than a catback and a 35 shot in a 20-60mph pull on the street it's first time out!

Our Ny-Trex Dry system will run you about $380 for the kit complete with a high flow bottle valve and a lifetime replacement warranty on the solenoid (American made, so here's no trouble getting warranty). Of course there's plenty of options to go along with any system, but this is a basic ready to run set up.

Other neat options would be a purge!!! everybody loves that one...remote bottle opener (in my Mustang I hated to be out cruising and run into a Viper or C5 and realise I didn't open my bottle)...Fuel Pressure Safety Switch (kills the system in the case your fuel pressure drops)...gauges, window switches, blow down, ect...

You have a head start with this system already having the high flow valve and upgrade solenoid, so it's a good place to start. I hear NX makes a nice dry kit (they started the whole dry thing), so check them out, too. Any dry system can be upgraded to a wet with the addition of a fuel solenod later if you want more power.

Wet is where the power's at!!! With a wet system you introduce fuel along with the nitrous at the nozzle. This means that as long as you have a decent fuel supply you could run as much nitrous as you wanted limited to the strength of the drivetrain. You have the ability to tune the shot without going into the cpu with a wet set-up. The car has no choice except to do what you tell it because you are bypassing the MAF system.

Alot of my Mustang buddies run a remote fuel cell just for their nitrous system and daily driven cars running upwards of 250 shot are common. I'm not saying you can do this with your Scion, but that should give you an example. To take full advantage of a wet system you should also upgrade the fuel supply. Routine maintenance is about the same as the dry...just have to solenoids to work with. Wet kits also look cooler in the engine bay

I have no idea what everyone elses prices run, but our basic wet kit will run you about $600...it comes with everything you need to get started and is a great base to build one nasty car. Of course it already has the upgrade solenoids and high flow bottle valve.

There's a local fella here by the handle "SickleCell" that's trying to put together a Scion Group buy for our Triple Threat system and he's getting some amazing prices...he's got a couple fellas together so far, but needs a couple more. Hit him up if you want to run quick. You'll be happy you did!

If you want to check out some of our nitroused cars you can go to the SuperFa.com Forums and there's a few pictures and details from people running these kits every day. Any of them would be happy to go over details or just ask me.

One last thing to Blue...no power adder is harmless to your drivetrain. Anytime you make more power you add more wear to the entire assembly. Nitrous, turbos, and blowers all do the same thing, so when you hear of a turboed fella that just busted up his car it most likely happened for the same reason the nitroused guy busted his up the week before. Most mishaps are the result of bad judgement or lack of knowledge. Study up and always stay on the safe side with any project you start with your car and you should do just fine.

Sheesh...I gotta go take a nap now
Old Sep 8, 2006 | 05:37 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Superfa
Our Ny-Trex Dry system will run you about $380 for the kit complete with a high flow bottle valve and a lifetime replacement warranty on the solenoid (American made, so here's no trouble getting warranty). Of course there's plenty of options to go along with any system, but this is a basic ready to run set up.

Wet is where the power's at!!! With a wet system you introduce fuel along with the nitrous at the nozzle. This means that as long as you have a decent fuel supply you could run as much nitrous as you wanted limited to the strength of the drivetrain. You have the ability to tune the shot without going into the cpu with a wet set-up. The car has no choice except to do what you tell it because you are bypassing the MAF system.

I have no idea what everyone elses prices run, but our basic wet kit will run you about $600...it comes with everything you need to get started and is a great base to build one nasty car. Of course it already has the upgrade solenoids and high flow bottle valve.

There's a local fella here by the handle "SickleCell" that's trying to put together a Scion Group buy for our Triple Threat system and he's getting some amazing prices...he's got a couple fellas together so far, but needs a couple more. Hit him up if you want to run quick. You'll be happy you did!
Isn't the wet kit alot safer then the dry kit?
Old Sep 8, 2006 | 05:52 PM
  #58  
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it depends, with a dry kit you have to rely on the maf sensor to add in more fuel, with a wet kit you have to rely on the fuel solenoid to add fuel. if the maf reads incorrectly or the fuel solenoid doesnt work properly, both will screw up the car.
Old Sep 8, 2006 | 07:52 PM
  #59  
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$380 for a dry kit sounds very tempting.

The best I've seen around for a wet kit was $500, that was a ZEX kit with no purge valve or any other options.
Old Sep 8, 2006 | 07:57 PM
  #60  
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id tune it any way, it seems like to me a 50 shot should put the tc over the 200 mark. tuning is the MOST important mod on your vehicle. period. a fully built gsr with no management barely ran, with tuning, 229 whp all motor. thats all the proof i need.



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