Hey Guys, Im a day away from doing my subwoofer install and this is what I have going on:

I have one edead dual 4ohm 9kv.2 which according to the site :
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=29
Can handle 400 wRMS at 4 ohms.

My amplifier is a DEI A802 amplifier:
http://www.cardomain.com/item/DEI45125
And more specs here: http://www.directed.com/audio/amps/default.asp

* Amplifier Type: 2-channel
* RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 150W x 2 @ 14.4V
* THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: <1%
* Bridged RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 400W x 1 @ 14.4V
* Speaker Level Inputs: no
* Preamp Outputs: yes
* Built-In Crossovers: HP/LP
* Bass Boost: 0 or 8 dB
* Frequency Response: 20-20,000 Hz
* Signal to Noise Ratio: 75 dB
* Fuse Rating: n/a


This dual voice coil subwoofer has me confused.

Should I bridge? not bridge? wire in series? parallel? direct?
Really, how do I go about wiring this thing?

Thanks,


Therm.

 

Forgot to put in my subwoofer box, http://www.cardomain.com/item/QLCQLH3508SS

It only has one set of terminals for power... obviousely internally that can be changed...but just thought i'd add it.

 

Please see: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161

Wire according to: "1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Series". Your amp will be presented with an 8 ohm mono load, good for about 400 watts. Don't worry about it not being 2 ohm, as SPL is logorithmic - to get 3db more requires 10X the power, and most of the time (outside SPL competition), you'll only use a fraction of that 400 watts.

 

I'm definitely not going to argue with a guy that has a sig like that, but I also wanted to note that you could also run one coil to each channel. Output will be the same. The option listed above is probably the smarter one, though, as it'd make for a cleaner install. So really, I have no idea why I bothered to post this. :-/

 

In order to get "max" power from your amp, You should have gotten the dual 2ohm subwoofer so you could wire it in series and present your amp with a 4ohm mono load. Since your amp is not 2ohm stable, you can't wire your dual 4ohm sub in parallel for a 2ohm mono load, only in series for an 8ohm mono load. Call Chris at eD and see about swapping for a dual 2ohm subwoofer.

 

BTW: running one coil per channel isn't very smart because you run the risk of the 2 coils seeing different information or power which can put a lot of stress on your sub or possibly blow it. unless you know how to gain match perfectly and run a mono signal into the amp

 

That's just incorrect. When one coil
is trying to push, the other is trying to pull, you end up getting no motion. The driver is not
trying to "tear itself apart". Each coil is setting up a magnetic field that happens
to be out-of-phase with the other. End result is there's NO net magnetic field. The left & right signal would have to be completely out-of-phase for such a condition to happen, anyway. Odds are much more likely that the phase differences between the two channels would create an additive situation. Music isn't a sine wave, anyway.

 

I'm saying if one is changing at a different rate than the other, there is a reaction that eventually could lead to failure... it's not going to spontainiously combust or anything, but it can be damaging - it isn't always but it IS always safer to wire both coils together instead of independently

 

2 channel amps should only have one gain anyway

Yes, voltage differences between vc's are a bad thing.

100% out of phase just makes heat which would eventually lead to failure if someone was content to having no bass long enough for it to happen even though they had a sub hooked up.

You're both right.

 

fair enough

 

Ok, so I'll have my amp bridged so it is 4 ohms ouput and I'll wire it in series so my final impedence will be 8 ohms.

If im not going to be able to give my sub "max" power...its not neccessarily a bad thing...it means 4 sure I wont blow it or anything...which is slightly comforting.

Any other words of wisdom?

Oh I guess I have one more lil thing...

When I was getting my window tint the guys were like we can install your subwoofer wiring too, and they did so...unfortunately they were jack asses and when they were installing the loc on the rear speaker they were pulling on the rear panel until it popper out.

lo and behold all of my white tabs sans like one are shredded and destroyed, and my panel isnt staying in place too well. Is there an easy way to get replacement tabs?

 

actually, with a clipped signal (gain too high), you could blow it...

make sure you have your gain set correctly to ensure you have minimal clipping... other than that, it's all in wiring and enclosure...

 

You've got the idea, but the amp will actually be bridged at 8ohms because the impedance your sub load will be showing will be an 8ohm mono load. Bridge the amp and it'll be putting out around 200 watts x 1 @ 8ohm.... which is entirely fine... that sub is a 200RMS sub

 

I seeeee. Ive done this type of math before...but you know the general phenomena of fear induced ignorance.


Thanks a bunch!