If you what a pounding sub go with Boston or Elemental Designs... I have a 1- 12" Boston with about 600 watts going to it and I hit 138.8 db... For the price you can't go wrong...

 

i wouldn't call anything from ED a "pounding" sub. their subs are not made to hit high numbers. they are more SQ than SPL.

what kind of box is the boston in and which boston?

 

The Boston is in a ported Boston box & it is a G2 the G5 is bad... and ED is good for SQ & SPL but when they make 6 1/2" subs hit 157.0 db + I say they pound....

 

Where's the 6.5" doing 157 at?

 

well the R&D team has told me that a 1000/1 is over kill, but im not doubting anyone that has done this or what not, its just what i have been told

 

i think he was talking about mandos setup that did 147 but there were 32 of them lol

 

Exactly. If your going to pay a premium price for JL (which I never have done or will do) then why not see what they warranty. No offense t the OP at all, but I don't think he knows what hes doing. I could be wrong though. Why set him up with a 10W7 and a 1000/1 when the 10W7 and a 500/1 is A) cheaper and B) more compatible. The 10W7 I'm sure can take 1k all day long with no problems if set up correctly. The 10W7 and the 500/1 work perfectly together. And I wouldn't call the W7 a SPL woofer. The ones Ive heard have sounded pretty nice. Its a solid SQL sub. Anyway, I still don't think the OP should get JL. Mainly because their are better options out there for him that are cheaper. Won't ever see JL in my car.

I would hope the guy could hit a high number with 32 of those speakers lol. Don't think it was 157 though.

 

142.8 he did!

 

I've read people putting 1k watts into a 8w7! Thats if you know what you are doing though....

Back in the day I fed a 12w0(125watts rms) 600watts all day long for many many months with no problems with a PPI A600.2 amp. Til one day I killed it buy just playing it hard and long.

 

Let me try and understand the OP with this summary:

You have a bazooka tube, want to keep the enclosure and replace the sub, and want the optimal sub for it?

If this is the case, we need to know what the internal volume of the box is to give a solid reccommendation. The above mentioned subs (Alpine, JL, Kicker, et. al.) may not sound good in your enclosure, even though they can sound phenominal in one designed for them.

Can you list:
Hole diameter,
Outer diameter
Depth
Wall thickness

or

If you have a model number for the tube we (the community) may be able to find something. I will stress again, I read the OP as saying they're looking for the best sub that is designed for the dimensions of the Bazooka tube, not what the "best" 10" is overall. Also, it is not just a matter of it physically fitting in the sub, but also being designed to work in the enclosure volume of the tube.

FYI, I have two 8w7's. I used to have one running off of a 250/1 and built an underseat enclosure for it. The box was undersized to fit the seat, but it did not sound great. I built a second box to manufacturers specifications and, with the same amp settings, was almost three times as loud. I went from a subwoofer gain on the head unit of +8 to 0 for comperable output. I'm now in the process of making a second enclosure for the other 8w7 and will run them both off of a 500/1, it will be quite loud when I'm finished.

Side story, I had the box sitting on the floor pan facing upward. I dropped a penny on the cone while it was playing and it launched it in the air enough to hit the headliner with some force, the w7 has some insane displacement though it doesn't directly translate to increased volume. They were ebay, have no warranty but I did order them from a vendor who does allow returns for defects on JL subs. Some sell them as is with no return, so buy carefully if you go that route. Retail, the price is not worth the quality and output, I could buy 2 without warranty for the price of one with full coverage. Note: the 10w1, 3 and 6 all require the same internal volume for sealed applications, .625 cu ft. The w7 needs 1.25 cu ft. and would not be suitable. Trust me, go small on the w7 box and it will sound like crap, I'm on my fourth box design to meet both speaker volume requirements and vehicle space dimension requirements (moved it from under seat to rear quarter panel, but there is a wheelchair ramp that requires clearance, had to go all fiberglass)

 

well im thinking the dayton will fit what i need best its 1000 watt peak and 600rms whats a good amp to power it thats preferably under 300 bux?

 

the dayton i believe is only a s4 so the best you could do is a 4 ohm load i believe.... which puts you looking for a 600 watt rms at 4 ohm load

here's one

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=44

you can find them used for around 300 and with a 5 year warranty you can't go wrong

 

that is correct. the daytons only come in a single four ohm coil. so you'll need 400-600 watts rms at 4 ohms. put the dayton in a ported box and you won't need over 300-400 watts for it.

i have one of the HO tens in .7 cubic foot net ported to 30hz. it gets plenty loud off of my 400 watts amp. i'm not even pushing the amp very hard either. ported they are very efficient subs.

 

i like the jl w3. they have good sound output, and have good sound quality

 

i think he was talking about mandos setup that did 147 but there were 32 of them lol[/quote]

Yes 32 6.5 subs with 28 watt going to each one..Hitting yes it was 147.something still not bad...

 

i saw the car with 32 subs online somewhere. thats thing was rediculas. just out of curiousity any idea how much that cost him to get that all put togther?

 

well at least marketing works even though the economy is going to ____. to anyone who has heard atleast an Fi Q and ID Q please speak up. Everyone else please shut up. a w3 and type-r is garbage compared to what's out there. and wtf does best mean? you want the thing blowing your brain out or reproducing sound like you were in the recording studio.

ps - Neb you forgot about the Alpine PDX amps.

 

Thanks for bringing some insight into the conversation Keeshwah. I recommended a Dayton Audio 10" HO for his application, which I know isn't a high powered, ground pounder, but it does reproduce very accurately and it is a very musical sub, typically applied to home theaters, but re-engineered for car audio application. The Dayton is even capable of playing all the way up to 600Hz, though it's not necessary in our application.

Also, thank you for revealing the HUGE marketing ploy that most people here are caught in lol... recommending nothing but Type R's, JL's, etc. is just because companies like those have imprinted such an image in people that they immediately think it's THE best. They are good, no doubt, but if you know audio well enough, you'll see there are MUCH better out there.

AND, thanks for bringing PDX's into the discussion, I think they are among the best in the industry for their price/performance/size/power divisions.

If you really want a high quality, HIGH end sub, look into Resonant Engineering, TC/Audiopulse, Fi, DD, ID, etc.

/end rant-ish thingy

 

^ nice hahaha

 

as much as i like pdx amps i really don't think they're worth the money