factory bazooka enclosure cracked - please help
i replaced my factory bazooka with an alpine type-s like the following person did:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...r=asc&&start=0
i used the same amp as well and i am very happy with the results. the only thing i did different was that i wired the sub in parallel so it gets 400w from the amp. the result was awesome.
after a week, however, i did notice one small problem. there was a slight buzz/rattle coming from the sub which at first made me think i might have overpowered the sub and blown it. however, when i got around to taking it out i realized that the enclosure had cracked. i tried to take some pictures. this is what i'm talking about:

it was hard to take a clear picture from the inside, but it appears as if a layer of fiberglass came loose.

from this second picture you can see just how thin this area is. it looks like the fiberglass separated, exposing those white areas you see.
i've been inspecting the enclosure and it seems to be made kinda flimsy, not as sturdy as i had expected. i guess they made it good enough to handle the bazooka, but the second you throw in something powerful it starts to fall apart. i've also found smaller cracks in the enclosure apart from the ones i took pictures of.
how i can go about repairing this? i have some jb weld i can apply to the cracks and i'm sure that will hold them together but there's still the thinness issue. how can i thicken the areas of the enclosure that are too thin? i saw a fiberglass repair kit at autozone: is this my best bet? what about bondo? most of these products said "apply in thin layers" but i want the opposite, something i can apply in a thick layer.
i've never fixed anything like this before so any expertise in this area would be greatly appreciated!!
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...r=asc&&start=0
i used the same amp as well and i am very happy with the results. the only thing i did different was that i wired the sub in parallel so it gets 400w from the amp. the result was awesome.
after a week, however, i did notice one small problem. there was a slight buzz/rattle coming from the sub which at first made me think i might have overpowered the sub and blown it. however, when i got around to taking it out i realized that the enclosure had cracked. i tried to take some pictures. this is what i'm talking about:

it was hard to take a clear picture from the inside, but it appears as if a layer of fiberglass came loose.

from this second picture you can see just how thin this area is. it looks like the fiberglass separated, exposing those white areas you see.
i've been inspecting the enclosure and it seems to be made kinda flimsy, not as sturdy as i had expected. i guess they made it good enough to handle the bazooka, but the second you throw in something powerful it starts to fall apart. i've also found smaller cracks in the enclosure apart from the ones i took pictures of.
how i can go about repairing this? i have some jb weld i can apply to the cracks and i'm sure that will hold them together but there's still the thinness issue. how can i thicken the areas of the enclosure that are too thin? i saw a fiberglass repair kit at autozone: is this my best bet? what about bondo? most of these products said "apply in thin layers" but i want the opposite, something i can apply in a thick layer.
i've never fixed anything like this before so any expertise in this area would be greatly appreciated!!
i wired the sub the way it shows in the instructions:
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Man...500SWS1242.PDF
page four, example 2. this way at 2ohms, it'll get 400W from the amp. i believe mr_lore wired his at 8ohms (example 1) so his gets about 125w from the amp. i tried this way as well and it hits hard enough.
i used the remote wire from the bazooka harness but i still had to run RCA's to the amp since i have an aftermarket head. if you have a factory head, or even if you have an aftermarket head, you can just use the speaker wires from the bazooka harness as well but you wont have as much control over the sub since the deck will see it as part of the rear speakers. the power cable i ran on the drivers side to avoid any noise issues, and i grounded the amp using the same location where the bazooka was grounded.
if i missed something let me know.
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Man...500SWS1242.PDF
page four, example 2. this way at 2ohms, it'll get 400W from the amp. i believe mr_lore wired his at 8ohms (example 1) so his gets about 125w from the amp. i tried this way as well and it hits hard enough.
i used the remote wire from the bazooka harness but i still had to run RCA's to the amp since i have an aftermarket head. if you have a factory head, or even if you have an aftermarket head, you can just use the speaker wires from the bazooka harness as well but you wont have as much control over the sub since the deck will see it as part of the rear speakers. the power cable i ran on the drivers side to avoid any noise issues, and i grounded the amp using the same location where the bazooka was grounded.
if i missed something let me know.
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