ack, I don't think he meant it sounded bad because of the amp, but was implying the Bazooka box wasn't a good match for that particular sub. There could be a couple reasons for that, and you might be able to resolve the issue easily (could be as simple as closing off the port), or find it doesn't have adequate airspace for that sub to function as intended, forcing you to go with a different enclosure. No matter, it sure won't hurt to try since you already have the box and it doesn't take much time or effort, maybe you'll get lucky.

Considering the amp situation again, and looking at future system upgrades, that Sony or another 2 channel amp might be a better solution than a mono amp for you right now. As I said earlier, you could use it with each channel powering a separate voice coil if you give the amp a mono signal (same on both inputs, if the amp doesn't have a switch for such, as some do), and have more than enough power. When you decide to ditch that sub and get the one you ultimately want, then get a new mono amp to power it, you could then use that Sony 2 channel on the front mid-hi speakers. Just something to think about.

 

Thanks for the further input.

I actually decided to have Dr Isotope fab me an mdf box for pretty much the same location as the OEM box. I like the location of the OEM box, but fear that it's not really made to handle much power - like you said... as well as the recommended cu ft for the sub. So that part is taken care of.

I've seen a couple specific recommendations for amps (including on from the dr.) and I'm kinda looking at all of them to understand a little better of what exactly I'm looking at and what I'll be doing. It'll be a couple weeks before I buy the amp but this is all good info that I'll be putting together at some point and make a decision.

 

Here's a quick update on the little "project" I have going with this stuff.



The Doc says it should be here early next week or maybe at the end of this week (doubtful). Still don't have an amp anyways, but I can always get the sub wired and secured and marvel at it's thumping potential.

Here's another question... I'm still not sure if I'm going to pay a shop to do the install/wiring or do it myself... but would it be bad for the amp to be located in the black foam piece under the floor? I'm talking about the right side, where it's just a big open storage one. I would be having the sub sit directly above it, so it really wouldn't be open to much airflow... but I don't know just how much cooling most amps require and if it would be able to take it or not.

I have seen a few mounted there before, but didn't think that was really "good" for the amp. Thoughts?

I'm just not sure what else to do for the amp mounting. I was figuring I'd just mount it to the flap behind the seat.

 

buy a couple 12v computer fans and embed them into the foam there (iirc it was 80mm computer fans that would fit perfectly). 1 intake, 1 exhaust. that'll get some airflow in there.

hook them onto your remote wire

 

btw... what is that box made of?

 

I'll look into the fan idea... but where do you circulate the air from? The spare tire area?

And the box is MDF and coated with Rhinolining.

 

yeah, cut a square in the left wall at the front (front being towards the front of the car) and then the right walls to exhaust the air to the wheel well area. if i have some time this afternoon before work when i get home, i'll take a picture of my right side foam piece. I originally cut it like this because i wanted a stealth install originally.

 

Ya, I see what you're saying now. So I'd just have to ground them and wire the power to the remote wire? Right? Simple enough...

The reason I'd like to have it there is that I use my trunk a LOT and put my seats down a lot... so I wouldn't want an amp potentially getting damaged or something if it's mounted to the back of the seats.

 

Oh... another question as I keep looking around at stuff...

Wiring: it looks like 8 gauge should work for the wattage I'm looking at. Anyone confirm that? Would there be any reason to go to 4 gauge?

 

^ For most single amp installs with modest power 8 guage is fine, and it's ok to use that with the amps discussed in the thread thus far (specific Sony, Pioneer & Kicker models). However, you should consider your potential for future system expansion, and also weigh the cost difference and possibility of doing the work twice. In other workds, even if all you need is 8 awg now, it's often a good idea to go with 4 instead, and it sure won't hurt, beyond costing just a bit more.

 

So on that note... another wiring question.

I have the OEM sub right now... and from what I've read, the wires are actually labeled pretty well... so there are speaker level inputs, power, ground, and a remote wire.

Would it make sense to use the speaker wires from that harness, along with the remote wire and then just run power and ground separately? The other alternative would be to get a line out converter and just change the speaker lines to RCAs anyways... so wouldn't it just be easier to use those existing wires?

I don't really plan on swapping the headunit anytime soon, so I'm not worried about losing the ability to use those harness wires. But if I could use those, I'd save myself a bit of money on a full wiring kit and could go with the 4g power/ground.

 

^ That'll mainly depend on what amp you get. If you want to do that, you need to make sure the amp accepts "high-level" (speaker wire output from the HU) inputs, not just "low-level" (RCA) inputs as some do. Otherwise I don't see an issue, it should work, although I haven't heard of anyone else trying it yet and haven't personally investigated the harness and connection diagrams of the stock sub system enough to say for certain.

As for cooling the amp, you may not need to be so concerned. Good that you thought about it and know what you could easily do if it's needed, but it'd be best if you wait. Lots of people have mounted their amp in that storage tray (myself included) with no active cooling and haven't had any problems. There are so many variables to consider, heatsink design, mounting orientation, available airspace in the compartment, the temp of the car's interior, how loud your average listening level is, the bass content of the music, whether the amp is class D or AB, etc., etc. The point is that there's little if any risk associated with trying it without fans first, as these days amps are really good about protecting themselves from damage caused by overheating. Go ahead, mount it in the tray, find out if it shuts off under your normal use and it feels really hot if/when it does, then consider active cooling or relocation.

 

Check out the 9th pic down:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=121308

I haven't looked at my specific OEM harness, but that looks pretty good to me.

And ya, the amp I'm considering does have the high level inputs... so I'd probably rather just do that since I don't really plan too many further audio upgrades in the future.

 

 

FINALLY:
$133 shipped.

Had been waiting for a gift card from work - or to redeem one that I had waiting anyways. Finally did that today and placed my order.

Can't wait!