Seriously right! Is there a chance the valet could damage the shifter since you can't see where the notches are?

 

I highly doubt it. If they are stupid enough to force it that hard then they shouldn't be driving a car lol

 

Appreciate the comments. Really not that hard. I'm a busy guy, but I'd make a step by step tutorial if enough interest was there. Probably already one out there, but I'm not too sure. It took some thinking, but it was easier than the other things I've done.

Oh..
@Aurora : No, it's not shorter than stock. The shift boot is generic, which left me with a longer piece of fabric to work with. It doesn't scruntch up too much at the bottom. The shift **** is the OBX one, and it sits pretty low compared to the oem one that comes stock. Then once I saw how low the **** sat, I pulled up the skirt, put it inside out, used a washer and electrical tape around the shift stick to hold it up. Perfect feel, except when it's in drive I have no need to move it. :D

 

Nice, I love it.
Yeah, if you can't do a tutorial, perhaps just list out all the things you'll need and where you got them from? That might send people in the right direction. I wanted to get this mod done before TORC.

 

I seen it but it doesnt look as good as you would think. I saw it in suede and it looks wierd

 

@ Aurora :

Basically you want to pop off the bottom part of the waterfall. Then unscrew whatever shift **** you've currently got on there. You're going to be left with the shifter bezel there in all it's glory. Using both hands(one on each side) at the top (near the ac temp ****) pull both sides towards the doors & pull up. same with the bottom half. it'll pop up, no issues. remove the plastic slider piece that allows the shift pattern to be covered up after you have that piece removed.

Now you're left with a naked (and ugly) black plastic skeleton of the shifter panel.
You're going to need something like this :
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories

Most of them will do you just fine. You're going to need to cut the bottom part of the shift boot. If you don't want to re-sew the stiching, you can do like I did and cut around it. Test fit it first, and see how much " sac" you want. I didn't want mine bunching up, so I took a good inch off of mine.

Then you're going to need to get a metal coat hanger, and cut it to make the rectangular shape around the shifter. this is what will keep your new shift boot down. you once you get the hanger bent, place it inside the shift boot, and get it snug. don't tape it just yet, though. next you're going to want to put your shift **** back on and screw it into place. pull up your shift boot and see where you like it. (I prefer mine with no pole showing) while leaving the shift **** on, pull the shift boot inside out. Almost like flipping a skirt while a woman is wearing it.

use electrical tape to the boot to the stick to keep it where you want it. if you can't tape it well enough, you're going to need to take off the ****, tape a washer in place, or you can use a washer with a small gasket/ o-ring to keep it in place (friction)

The rest of it should be pretty self explanatory.
Taking it apart is the dull part.. Making it look cooler... That's where the FUN is at.

 

Dude, ^^, thanks a bunch, that helps set me in the right direction.
Still sketchy on some details but I'll figure it out once I get it gutted.
Quick question though, if you wanted to lower the shifter that the **** sits on, how would you do that? I kind of want it to sit lower, but perhaps with this mod it'll help that.

 

Well since they don't have a short shifter for an automatic, you could cut the top, and thread it yourself. Or you could go the easy route which would be leaving more of the shift boot to bunch up, thus making it look shorter. Also, finding a good shift **** will greatly help. My OBX one (used in the photo) sits down pretty darn low compared to other ***** that would pretty much be a universal fit.

 

 

Yeah, the shift **** sits so high! I wish I could just burrow mine inward more so it sits lower....keep that luxury **** look, but I'll deff. shop around for some new ones.

 

Is there a thread anywhere explaining exactly how to remove the parts of the dash and the best tips for painting them?

I really want to get my "waterfall" painted all black, but am unsure of where to start.

 

my waterfall




and just before anyone asks, i didnt paint the sides on the door, just because i didnt want to mess with it because i want the RS whatever number bezel thing that gets rid of the door....

 

Done a few mods this month. Waterfall has been red for a few months now. Upgraded the shift boot (as seen in a few pics above) new shift ****, and clazzio seat covers.



& Here is my red waterfall and my carbon fiber overlaid one..

 

Nice! I like how it looks.

 

^ Appreciate it! Man, your modification I saw of the back hatch garnish was absolutely amazing. I want to do one with " jazFromHouston" in a graffiti font just like you did, but no time, patience or dremel skills.

 

Ugh, I need help.

I went out and got flat black paint from an auto-parts store, removed the lower piece of my console, sanded it down, and sprayed on multiple coats.

It looked great, but I could tell it wasn't going to stay that way, the paint started chipping and after installation it was clear I would have to redo it.

So I went and bought Clear Coat. Sanded everything back down, re-applied all the coats of flat black, waited for it to dry, then did my coats of clear coat.

Yeah, it's like the glossiest looking black I've ever seen and nowhere near what I want it to actually look like.

Does anyone have any tips on painting the console flat black and having it somehow "protected"?

 

^ I'd also like to know. I don't know what needs to be used for the interior. I don't have any paint guns like the pro's, so how can you pull off these clean consoles and interior parts w/ rattle cans? Brand, steps, etc.

 

Plain and simple. Prep and take your time.

 

True true...do you have to use OEM paint or will like Krylon or Dupli-color work? Cant' seem to find a good clear in a rattle can either.

 

what i did for mine up above was sand, primer, painted the gunmetal and white. with a lot of coats of each. but i built up in thin layers, to heavier coats...

then when i was done i took it to my local paint shop, which im friends with the guy, and he gives me a pretty good deal on clear coat i think. he did the waterfall for free because they had so many cars they were clear coating, but charged me $20 for my gauge cluster and strut bar a while later. but the clear coat is way better than i could do with a rattle can. so i suggest doing that.