Sub Help! Please i Need All the Help I can
get a 10" or 12" in a good sized ported box with about 300-500 watts rms and you'll be more than happy. i have a 10" alpine type-r in a 2cu ft ported box with only 300 watts rms and it's plenty loud. the tc doesn't need that much to get loud, i knew that before i bought what i bought.
i had 2 12's loaded in a box with a 900 watts rms amp that i could have used but i didn't wanna use my entire trunk and i knew it would be a crazy amount of bass. but comparing these in my last car, to the tc with what i have in it now it's not that far off spl wise. it really is pretty loud for one 10"
i had 2 12's loaded in a box with a 900 watts rms amp that i could have used but i didn't wanna use my entire trunk and i knew it would be a crazy amount of bass. but comparing these in my last car, to the tc with what i have in it now it's not that far off spl wise. it really is pretty loud for one 10"
Yes, you will, thats what provides the power. MAKE SURE you have a fuse within 7inches of your battery (on the power wire), because if too much power goes to the amp, it will crackle and FRY in a matter of seconds. I made the stupidest mistake of doing it WRONG and the total opposite, frying the Crunch amp I had.
A Distribution block does just that, it distributes power so that you can connect other amplifier accessories, mainly a capaciter, which is a bigger better version of a fuse, and some even have an LCD screen which tells you how much is going through it.
As for the ground, find a spot underneath or better yet off toward the top of the spare tire (where those dollar quarter sized holes are at). This also depends on where you mount your amp. I mounted mine in the foam fixture on the right of the spare tire. Hope this helps.
A Distribution block does just that, it distributes power so that you can connect other amplifier accessories, mainly a capaciter, which is a bigger better version of a fuse, and some even have an LCD screen which tells you how much is going through it.
As for the ground, find a spot underneath or better yet off toward the top of the spare tire (where those dollar quarter sized holes are at). This also depends on where you mount your amp. I mounted mine in the foam fixture on the right of the spare tire. Hope this helps.
Originally Posted by BiGg-E-tC
ok im really sorry but i am confused now
ok so i should run 4 gauge from the battery all the way back to the amp? or do i need another size wire becuase it is running so far? What is the distro block? and can i use a 4 gauge ground? and all i need to ground is the amp rite because the negative ion the subs runs back to the amp or do i ground the subs seperatly? sorry i am kinda new with all this stuff so if someone could explain it please. zebman you have really helped me out so far thanx a lot
ok so i should run 4 gauge from the battery all the way back to the amp? or do i need another size wire becuase it is running so far? What is the distro block? and can i use a 4 gauge ground? and all i need to ground is the amp rite because the negative ion the subs runs back to the amp or do i ground the subs seperatly? sorry i am kinda new with all this stuff so if someone could explain it please. zebman you have really helped me out so far thanx a lot
A distribution block splits the energy from one wire to two, whether it is a ground distrobution block or a power distrobution block. A distrobution block is used to keep the ground to one single spot on your car, so that if your system picks up noise, the ground is in a convenient one spot to check, not 2 or 3.
The subs will be fine, you do not have to ground speakers. Think of it this way. Your car is one big circuit. To complete a circuit, the power flow has to be one big loop, from the positive terminal of your battery, to the negative terimal. The way this circuit is completed without running hundreds of wires to the negative terminal is to run the negative signal of all the accessories to the chassis of the car. When an amp is not completing the circuit, it will not operate. I do not know the specific reasons as to why, or what would happen as i'm not that well equipped in the knowledge of electronics (i'm in high school too, mind you).
ok i think i am understanding. but now that people are saying it mayb 1100w rms will be way to much for my tc. I am pretty good with a ratchet and stuf but i do not want to get soo far into it as to creating my own box. does anyone know of a combo that is subs amp and box together that will hit real hard for mayb less money. now that i am really thinking about it 600 for subs is a lot. mayb i could get away with spending 400 and still get subs that will hit real hard. my friends have been saying that a bazooka tube will rattly my tc but i am telling them no. so does anyone know of a good setup that will mayb run me a little less even if it isnt as powerful?
mayb 1 kicker cvx 10" which puts out 600 w rms would do me just fine. its in a kicker ported box and all i would need would be an amp. would this sub hit really hard in my tc? and what kinda amp could i use with it? it is wired to 2 ohms
Buy a Sony Xplod amp if you're trying to save some $$$. I do not like Sony car audio products, but I would much rather have one of their products than a no-name brand.
That would do you well at getting loud, but it would sound like dirt. Nebster is right, you'll want to keep saving. Kicker makes some great amps that would obviously pair well with their speakers.
That would do you well at getting loud, but it would sound like dirt. Nebster is right, you'll want to keep saving. Kicker makes some great amps that would obviously pair well with their speakers.
woudl that 10" speaker hit real hard in my tc though? i could always spend a littl eextra on the amp if i am gettin a cheaper sub. but i wanna make sure that sub is gonna hti hard and rattle my tc
Should do for a tC.. I was originally going to get one 10", but a car audio guy suggested I get two for better balance..? Either way, the subs are 10" Polk Audio DB104. They went from $89, to $67, to $39 (each), which is friggin awesome.
Why not get an Elemental Designs EHQS12 and a nine.2?? the nine.2 is $175 and the EHQS12 is only $25 for a sub that could easily sell for $75-$100.... Put it in a 2.5 cu ft box tuned to 30Hz and you'd be very surprised...
There's a guy from georgia who hit a 139db with ONE of these $25 subwoofers in an SPL box - I'm sure you would be satisfied
There's a guy from georgia who hit a 139db with ONE of these $25 subwoofers in an SPL box - I'm sure you would be satisfied
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From: White Marsh, Balti Co., MD
Originally Posted by nebster
you wont get a good sub for 400. with car audio you get what you pay for. (to an extent) if you are on a budget i heard dual makes good stuff. :whistle:
Originally Posted by trialsindude
Originally Posted by nebster
you wont get a good sub for 400. with car audio you get what you pay for. (to an extent) if you are on a budget i heard dual makes good stuff. :whistle:
but when you look at my setup its well worth over 1500 bc of everything else needed.
and lastly
DON'T GO SONY. you will regret everything you buy from them. They are pieces of crap.
i looked and i cannot find the ehqs12 sub. if a guy reached 139 decibles wouldnt that make this sub incredible and if it was that good why would it only be 35 dollars?
i was planning on trying to get a hifonics amp if i get that kicker 10" cvx i would be powering it at 900w rms. the sub is 600w rms is that too much over for powering?
i was planning on trying to get a hifonics amp if i get that kicker 10" cvx i would be powering it at 900w rms. the sub is 600w rms is that too much over for powering?
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...roducts_id=183
its bc they're cheap to make. eD does a great job and check this out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSMdasKsOUM
its bc they're cheap to make. eD does a great job and check this out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSMdasKsOUM


