Here's what I found somewhere a while ago:

"Since the mid 80's or so, Toyota have been using a type of filter where the paper is packed in, in a different manner to the usual filter.They are able to pack in at least as much paper, and hence filtering area, as a normal filter, but in a package far smaller. The stock Toyota oil filters are used on many of their racing engines. So, even though they may cost a little more, they are the way to go if you have a Toyota or are able to use them."

As a side note, the smaller aftermarket we see for the tC uses the same packaging technique as Toyota, but the aftermarket ones just slap on a end cap filled with glue while toyota bonds the individual pleats to increase usable filtering surface and eliminating pressure buildup caused by endcaps.

The design it's talking about looks like:

 

There are a lot of things out there on the web on various oil filters. here are a few links:

http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html

The Mercruiser site is good to. Most filters are good enough, the better filters have a silicon ADBV and a synthetic element. There are a few to definitely avoid such as the Fram Extra Guard and it's variants (Pennzoil/Quaker State).
Personally, I have a K & N filter on my tC and I have used Purolators and Wix on my Toyotas in the past which include a Corrolla, Landcruiser, Avalon 2 pickups and 2 Camry's. I never had engine problems with any of them and most of them went well over 100k miles.
I do avoid the Toyota filter as a matter of personal preference. There was a well publicized 'engine sludge' lawsuit against Toyota a few years ago. The cause was never conclusively determined, but Toyota did pay up. The one common denominator from everyone in the suit was that they all had maintenance done at the dealer using Toyota Filters. I don't know if that is the cause or if Toyota even uses that same odd design...but I avoid it nonetheless. For my 'free' oil changes that came with my car, I provide the Mobil 1 and the filter. All I am really getting 'free' is the dealer labor and warranty documentation.

 

Are we talking about the sludge in the 3.0 V6?

 

The sludgers were NOT caused by the filters!!!
It had to do with oil passages being too small and other poor design elements - please, don't spread FUD about perfectly good filters!

Toyota filters are excellent, and you are correct about current Fram filters - they used to be good, but can no longer carry that label.

Wix, Purolator are good too. No point spending more money than you need to as the OEMs are good. They will also be covered under warranty 100%
No point in making people unnecessarily paranoid.
As an aside, the filters now current - the YZZF1 - are also a newer design. They weren't even around when the sludge issues plagued some Toy engines...

 

iuse the trd filter on my 06 tc with trd s/c. i use mobil1 5w30 since new. 13000 miles and no probs! now the mobil1 filter i used for my 01 nissan pathy (sorry, only exp i have with mobile1 filter) and it currently has 122,xxx miles. no probs. i feel that mobil1 makes a qual filter (may not apply to tc, though....) but trd filters were a good price on the internet..... otherwise i would have been using m1's this whole time with my s/c tc. my 2 cents.

 

I don't mean to FUD the Toyota filters, I am sure they are fine. I currently own two Toyota's with the 3.0L V6 and have had no sludge problems.

 

The TRDs may allow more flow (for racing, SC/Turbo) but might not filter the same micron levels.
That's the balance with filters: flow vs filtration.

A good street filter allows enough flow, while filtering smaller particles of junk.
Racers need more flow.

 

You see..... if the sludge WAS caused by the oil filters, it wouldn't have been limited to a specific engine. However in this case, the sludge was only a problem in the 3.0L V6 used in the Camry, Highlander, Solara.... edt. So I don't think it's the filter.

 

I know - I just want to stop any potential hysteria about Toy filters being bad before it starts...

Scott

 

What is the maximum mileage that should be put on

Mobil1 5W-20
&
Mobil1 5W-20 Extended Performance


I'm looking for some numbers. Recommended and maximum. Thanks!

 

Spect2k3,

Is your car still covered by the warranty? It is important because dealers can use oil change intervals against you!. If you car is still covered, don't go over 5000 miles. I use Mobil1 Synthetic as well and I change right before 5000. In the case of cars not covered by warranty, you might consider stretching to to 7000 first, and do a UOA to see if it's holding up fine. If it is, go for 8000 or 9000, depending on how much guts you have.

I don't know if I would want to go 15000 miles like Mobil1 claims. I am sure the car will be fine, but I just won't do it to my car.

 

I thought the interval in the TC manual now shows 7500 miles . Maybe I am wrong but , to answer your question . You can go 15,000 easy IF you drive most everyday and have a good filter with synthetic media . At 10,000 your engine should be clean as new . If under warranty , you know the deal . The extended performance should add little or no difference in how long the oil can go safely . Just another way of selling something else . Mobil1 is all you need . Castrol Syntec is excellent also .

 

^^well I just bought some of those toyota filters, so its not really synthetic media, but i've been changing it at every 5K regardless. I have 31K on my car, i'm not worried about warranty anymore. I would go to like 7K or so, but I use the maint light on the tC to remind me. So unless I want to reset it when it comes on, i'm just swapping it out at 5K. I was just really interested to know if its worth the extra buck or 2 per quart for the extended performance. I also have some leftover 5w-20 (non extended perf) from before they came out with the 20 extended perf. I didn't want to mix the 2 if they would create drastically different intervals, but it sounds like it doesnt matter one way or another if i'm changing it at 5K. Sounds like I should just save my money and buy the non extended perf

 

You will be surpised how the fibers will look under a SEM. They are too thin to be anything organic used by other filters.

Yeah, the normal M1 synthetic will be more than enough at 5000 miles.

 

Agreed ! No need to waste the money . Only 5k ? Yep . Your filters and oil are all perfectly fine .