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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 01:42 AM
  #281  
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I have enlarged pistons, manley connecting rods, and BC valve springs and retainers. Im also running a dual clutch. When I start my car it runs irregularly (fluctuates up and down from 700-1000ish rpms). It stabilizes after warming up, but still runs extremely rough when revved or in motion. Is this due to a lack of engine management, or is something else wrong?
Old Feb 15, 2011 | 01:52 PM
  #282  
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Can anyone tell if the navigation system that comes with the Scion tC RS 6.0 (PT545-00100) is supposed to play the voice guidance out of just the driver's side speaker, both front speakers, or all speakers? My navigation system stopped working a little over a month ago, and I just recently took it into the dealership to have it fixed. I was told a wire had gotten loose, and they re-attached it. It works now, but the voice guidance is only playing out of the driver's side speaker. I could have sworn it played out of both front speakers before, but I honestly cannot remember. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Old Feb 19, 2011 | 04:37 AM
  #283  
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I believe it is just the driver side speaker, I can hear the music/radio fade when she gives me directions. Man I wish she had a hotter voice..
Old Feb 26, 2011 | 05:00 AM
  #284  
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Question mcgeorgeparts.com

Has anyone ordered from mcgerogeparts.com using PayPal? If so, do they claim the payment quickly or do they leave it unclaimed for a while (until shipping the part).
Old Mar 2, 2011 | 12:22 AM
  #285  
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why does TRDsparks.com show NA in the price column beside the oem flint mica painted full lipkit?
Old Mar 2, 2011 | 12:41 AM
  #286  
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because the OEM lipkits are discontinued
Old Mar 7, 2011 | 06:11 AM
  #287  
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So my 06' Flint Mica is 5 years old now and I'm seeing the clear coat of the paint beginning to rust and fall off. It has started to separate from the paint exactly on the sides of the back bumper right in between where the body and the back bumper connect. Any way of fixing it or preventing it from spreading ? Because I know I've seen a black tC that hasnt been taken car of and you could see the clear coat has been peeled off all the way to the bottom of the bumper. Let me know, thanks!
Old Mar 12, 2011 | 02:43 PM
  #288  
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Default Unidentified Light

Hi, we just bought a 2007 tc for my daughter - no owner's manual. Could someone tell me what the light means - its a pic of a car and key just below the air conditioner controls.
Old Mar 12, 2011 | 02:50 PM
  #289  
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That would be for the Engine Immobilizer. It flashes red when the car is off(with NO key in the ignition, I never really gave it too much thought but as long as it's blinking it's ok).
Old Mar 12, 2011 | 07:40 PM
  #290  
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Originally Posted by Marleezy
So my 06' Flint Mica is 5 years old now and I'm seeing the clear coat of the paint beginning to rust and fall off. It has started to separate from the paint exactly on the sides of the back bumper right in between where the body and the back bumper connect. Any way of fixing it or preventing it from spreading ? Because I know I've seen a black tC that hasnt been taken car of and you could see the clear coat has been peeled off all the way to the bottom of the bumper. Let me know, thanks!
Its not the clear coat thats rusting, its the car's body panels. If rust is present it means that the clear coat and color coat of the car have been worn away and contaminants introduced onto bare metal. To prevent rust you can clear the paint away from the rusted area by sanding it outward until no more rust is evident. Once this has been done you can use a "rust inhibitor" which will stop the rust, then prime over the area.
Old Mar 13, 2011 | 03:17 AM
  #291  
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thanks spicy!

Another question haha, Im planning to buy an HID kit from HIDextra, where would i put the ballasts ? anyone have a picture on where they installed them ?
Old Mar 20, 2011 | 04:19 AM
  #292  
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Hi everyone. New member here, but long time tC driver/owner. Quick question. Last year, I changed out my transmission fluid to Redline. Ever since the change, I've been grinding 3rd whenever the car/tranny fluid is not fully warmed up. I was wondering, is this normal? I'm sure the temperature has something to do with it, since it doesn't grind when the car is warm, but it also didn't EVER grind before I changed the fluid. Just wondering if this is a common occurrence. Thanks for any help.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 02:29 PM
  #293  
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Ok. Essentially here's the story. In '05 I bought my tC at 17 and have just broken the 10K mile mark. Around 15K miles into it the car had wheels, tint, exhaust, stereo already done. The car has evolved twice. One of the final mods I did at around 20K miles in its initial stages was the drop. The car has been on the same set of S-Tech's for 80K miles. I had the car riding on stock shocks till about 60K miles. The ride was firm but it was still smooth it wasn't jarring or anything. But as of late having changed out the stock shocks for Tokico Blues, it's just gotten too rough for me to enjoy and I'm wondering where the compromise is or if my problem is just simply that the car has been on the same set of lowering springs for 80K miles and they just need to be changed. I need to figure out what to do to get my smooth ride back. I live in North Atlanta and the roads around here aren't bad at all but even some of the smallest pot holes seem to just rattle the ever loving ____ out of the car.

Should I just order a fresh set of stock shocks and S-Tech's and throw them in or is there an entirely different route I should go? Help me Scionlife....you're my only hope.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 03:16 PM
  #294  
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Originally Posted by ryun84
Hi everyone. New member here, but long time tC driver/owner. Quick question. Last year, I changed out my transmission fluid to Redline. Ever since the change, I've been grinding 3rd whenever the car/tranny fluid is not fully warmed up. I was wondering, is this normal? I'm sure the temperature has something to do with it, since it doesn't grind when the car is warm, but it also didn't EVER grind before I changed the fluid. Just wondering if this is a common occurrence. Thanks for any help.
its the redline, redline makes it very rough only a coupole of miles in. i had the same problem. i couldnt take it, my car was rough before but this made it 1000x worse. so i changed out the fluid to Eneos and voila! it was MUCH MUCH better, the presense of the redline was still there but nothing another flush and refill of eneos cant fix
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by black06tc
Ok. Essentially here's the story. In '05 I bought my tC at 17 and have just broken the 10K mile mark. Around 15K miles into it the car had wheels, tint, exhaust, stereo already done. The car has evolved twice. One of the final mods I did at around 20K miles in its initial stages was the drop. The car has been on the same set of S-Tech's for 80K miles. I had the car riding on stock shocks till about 60K miles. The ride was firm but it was still smooth it wasn't jarring or anything. But as of late having changed out the stock shocks for Tokico Blues, it's just gotten too rough for me to enjoy and I'm wondering where the compromise is or if my problem is just simply that the car has been on the same set of lowering springs for 80K miles and they just need to be changed. I need to figure out what to do to get my smooth ride back. I live in North Atlanta and the roads around here aren't bad at all but even some of the smallest pot holes seem to just rattle the ever loving ____ out of the car.

Should I just order a fresh set of stock shocks and S-Tech's and throw them in or is there an entirely different route I should go? Help me Scionlife....you're my only hope.
If you want the smoothest ride just go back to OEM.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 05:33 PM
  #296  
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Originally Posted by yellowxhoodie
If you want the smoothest ride just go back to OEM.
Reading>You. I never said I was looking for the smoothest ride just smoother. When your riding around town and even the smallest potholes cause things inside the car to rattle. that ride isn't even close to smooth. The car right now rides about as well as a honda civic with factory springs cut in half. I'm just trying to see what I can do to make it a little more cushy. I contemplated going back to OEM for all of .0000001 seconds but I care way too much about the handling and love the way this car looks lowered to do that.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 05:48 PM
  #297  
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the tc is known to rattle. no matter what. everything rattles on this car, hatch, roof, console etc.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 05:56 PM
  #298  
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Originally Posted by FlintMica2005
the tc is known to rattle. no matter what. everything rattles on this car, hatch, roof, console etc.
Mine hasn't until the last year or so.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 06:55 PM
  #299  
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do a little searching. they all rattle.
its an economy car.
you get what you pay for.
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 03:21 AM
  #300  
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I have an issue with my b&g coilovers. For some reason, If I set the fronts to the same identical height, same preload, and same sway bar mount location, the car will still sit lower on the driver side. I have to raise the drivers side about a 3/4 inch to be level with the passenger side. I know cars arent perfectly level, but is this right? Seems a bit odd to me?



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