Changing brakes is one of the most important things to have a how-to on ....and its not there. Can someone please do this? If I could I would - but ...... I would like to use one if one was made. Thank you.


....I think others might feel the same way I do.

 

i would but my pads are still good

 

mine are ok now but wont be in another few months.

 

If you have ever done brake pads on another car before... the tC is pretty much the same. We have single piston floating calibers which are pretty much the same as most cars. I personally changed all 4 corners (only the fronts were worn completely) with axxis ultimate in about 3 hrs and I was playing Grand Turismo 4 in between each tire (it was hot outside). Maybe someone will do a "how to" but if you are really not sure how to change brake pads maybe you should have a shop do it.

 

same as any other single piston brake system.

 

great but i never changed brakes before ....but i got the quick rundown from the guy at work and it seems pretty darn easy .....ive just never done it. ..... which leads me to asking for a how-to.

 

yeah, it's really easy. I use a C-clamp to compress the piston, remove the pads, then put new ones on (after applying the anti-squeal compound), re-install the caliper, and pump the brakes a few times to seat the pads in the caliper.

 

Just have a buddy help you through one brake pad change and after that you'll be able to do it yourself. It's not a difficult process at all.

 

I always use 2 wrapped screwdrivers to compress the calipers while they are still mounted. You pry GENTLY and slowly between the pad and the piston (not the pad and the rotor. But, I have also changed more brake pads than I care to even count So I know how to do it without damaging anything.


As far as changing them, I havent had to change the tC, but the basic (c-clamp method) steps for any car like ours is:

1) Raise car

2) Remove wheels

3) Remove whatever is holding the caliper on. In our case I believe there is one bolt to remove which probably has a long pin that the caliper slides on.

4) I use the old pad or a wooden block to clamp a c-clamp to and compress the piston. DO NOT ADD fluid before you do this so you dont run as much risk pushing it back out the master cylinder. It is also a good idea to wrap the master cylinder with a big rag in case any fluid spills out. Brake fluid is nasty stuff and will not only remove paint, but will make the surface nearly impossible to repaint. In case you get any spilled, most solvents do not clean it up. The best thing is to use warm soapy water. It actually cuts it better than most things. It doesnt hurt to suck a little out of the master cylinder if you have recently topped it off. A turkey baster does a decent job.

5) Pop old pads out of caliper and place new pads in.

6) Bolt everything back up.

7) Repeat for all 4 wheels and check fluid afterward.

Before driving, start the car and pump the brakes untill the pedal feels right, compressing the calipers will cause them to start away from the rotors, so do this BEFORE backing the car up or pulling it forward or you may end up with a nice indention in the garage door


You do not need to bleed the brakes.

If I need to change mine anytime soon, I will take some pics and post them if no-one else has. It is really a simple and quick procedure. Especially with 4 wheel discs.

 

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=86011

 

ack, that was exactly what i was going to post

 

That's why he's a mod

 

haha true.dat

good work ack

 

its doing it the first time ...thats why im wanting this. Hint hint .... a video would be F-N great!

 

good little writeup in this thread too (no pix, but still good)!

 

ok guys - I went to toyota today to buy the bolts. It turns out that most toyota dealers do not stock them. I found a larger dealership that happened to have 23of them. I think they cost me around $.56 each and I bought 6. I changed all 4 bolts in the front since they were so cheap. They told me the torque setting for the caliper bolts are 25lbs. When I took off my caliper on the other side they were torqued to 30lbs. Moral of the story is ...30lbs is the MAX!! I was talked to the guy I work with today and he said I had the torque wrench up to 50lbs. ..... 50lbs will break the bolts just so you guys know. I would say torque anywhere from 25 to 30.

Turned out that I had 1/2 my pads left and it was the heat shield that was rubbing. Now that I have new pads, bleeded brake lines, and clean rims (from my tire rotation) I can go on with things and deff say that I learned a lot from this venture. The hardest part about changing brakes is getting enough (ballz) courage to do it for the first time. The guy at work helped me do the one wheel and I did the other today by myself (and also rebolted the other caliper w/ the broken bolt).

There is nothing hard about doing this after you know how to properly do the first wheel. Honestly I knew it was easy to change brakes but it was A LOT easier then what I even thought. I went to pepboys and bought a $8 self bleeding kit which helped me compress the piston very very very easily. Some guys say ya dont need the bleed the lines but I did and it was a very easy thing to do.

Last thing: the part number for the front caliper bolts (2 small 1inch'ish bolts) is: 90105-08164 - All the dealers said their prices were the same so expect to pay .56-$2.30 per bolt.

 

Why were you buying the bolts? Did I miss that somewhere in this thread?

 

ahh - i copied and pasted that from another thread cause i thought people could use the info - i had to buy them because i torqued the one bolt to 50lbs and broke it ...but not 100% so it came out. thats when i asked toyota and they told me 25lbs is the right # and my stockers were at 30lbs so i toruqed them to 30.

 

I got 40K in my car and never changed pads. If I don't change it now I'll miss a corner or run a red light one of these days... somebody knows where to find a video or pics on how to change the front pads? (ASAP please!)

 

there are some how-to's somewhere. all you have to remember is that each caliper has 2 bolts that need to be taken off. When putting them on you need to only torque them to 25lbs. Also - look how the pads are on the car before taking them off .....there are plates that are in the back of each pad ....reuse them w/ your new pads ...meaning .... swap your pads and use everything else that came w/ the car.

I bled my lines when I did mine so they would compress easier but it seems like a lot of people arent.