brake pad change - no how-to? why?
09-23-2006, 11:16 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by Kall
I got 40K in my car and never changed pads. If I don't change it now I'll miss a corner or run a red light one of these days... somebody knows where to find a video or pics on how to change the front pads? (ASAP please!)
09-24-2006, 03:43 AM
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Originally Posted by paul34
Originally Posted by Kall
I got 40K in my car and never changed pads. If I don't change it now I'll miss a corner or run a red light one of these days... somebody knows where to find a video or pics on how to change the front pads? (ASAP please!)
09-25-2006, 01:14 AM
#23
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its really easy to do. I work at a lexus dealership as technician, heres pretty much how you do it step by step:
1. Raise up and put car on jackstands
2. Remove wheels
3. Work on one side at a time, i have a routine of working on passenger side first when i do brake jobs
4. ON toyota cars there is usually one or two 14MM bolts holding the caliper, remove these bolts and slide the caliper off
5. You will then see your brake pads, there will be two 17MM bolts behind holding the rest of the caliper onto the whole hub. Remove these bolts and you now have access to the rotor.
6. To remove the rotor, i havent looked at a tC's rotors yet but there might be little screws holding it on, if not then hit it with a rubber mallet or grab a spare 12mm bolt and you will see two little holes with threads to screw it into. Keep driving the 12mm bolt till the rotor "pops" and it will be free.
7. Take your rotors to be surfaced!!! (some people "pad slap a car" but this is completely the wrong way of doing a brake job,unless thats your stlye, doing things wrong on your own car!!) Then install rotor back into position. Or if your installing new ones, install it now.
8. Bolt on the 2nd portion of the caliper with the two 17MM's
9. Grab your old pads and match them to two of your new pads, either by the direction of the friction sufrace (top and bottom of pad) or just look at it before how it was on before you took them off.
10. remove any indicator that may be on the inside pad and clip onto new pad (make sure same side)
11.Remove shims (should be two sometimes there is one) and before installing onto new pads, place lube onto back surface of new pad, sometimes there is two holes or indents incidicating where to place lube. (I use syli glide for all my brake jobs, i recommened it to everyone!) you can even place some lube onto the sliders so your pads move smoothly.
12. grab pads and install them onto sliders or 2nd portion of caliper. make sure to put the pad with the indicator onto the inside of the rotor.
13. Grab the floatiing caliper and use some kind of brake piston tool to rectract the piston. Or what i use every day at the dealership is just big pliers to compress the piston.
14. install caliper with the two 14MM bolts (or one)
15. Put your wheel back on and do the other side!
16. When your done with the other side, jump in the car and before you start it and drive, PUMP YOUR BRAKE PEDAL till it gets stiff.
HAVE FUN!
1. Raise up and put car on jackstands
2. Remove wheels
3. Work on one side at a time, i have a routine of working on passenger side first when i do brake jobs
4. ON toyota cars there is usually one or two 14MM bolts holding the caliper, remove these bolts and slide the caliper off
5. You will then see your brake pads, there will be two 17MM bolts behind holding the rest of the caliper onto the whole hub. Remove these bolts and you now have access to the rotor.
6. To remove the rotor, i havent looked at a tC's rotors yet but there might be little screws holding it on, if not then hit it with a rubber mallet or grab a spare 12mm bolt and you will see two little holes with threads to screw it into. Keep driving the 12mm bolt till the rotor "pops" and it will be free.
7. Take your rotors to be surfaced!!! (some people "pad slap a car" but this is completely the wrong way of doing a brake job,unless thats your stlye, doing things wrong on your own car!!) Then install rotor back into position. Or if your installing new ones, install it now.
8. Bolt on the 2nd portion of the caliper with the two 17MM's
9. Grab your old pads and match them to two of your new pads, either by the direction of the friction sufrace (top and bottom of pad) or just look at it before how it was on before you took them off.
10. remove any indicator that may be on the inside pad and clip onto new pad (make sure same side)
11.Remove shims (should be two sometimes there is one) and before installing onto new pads, place lube onto back surface of new pad, sometimes there is two holes or indents incidicating where to place lube. (I use syli glide for all my brake jobs, i recommened it to everyone!) you can even place some lube onto the sliders so your pads move smoothly.
12. grab pads and install them onto sliders or 2nd portion of caliper. make sure to put the pad with the indicator onto the inside of the rotor.
13. Grab the floatiing caliper and use some kind of brake piston tool to rectract the piston. Or what i use every day at the dealership is just big pliers to compress the piston.
14. install caliper with the two 14MM bolts (or one)
15. Put your wheel back on and do the other side!
16. When your done with the other side, jump in the car and before you start it and drive, PUMP YOUR BRAKE PEDAL till it gets stiff.
HAVE FUN!
09-25-2006, 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by jwaggz82
lexus resurfaces after their brake jobs?
09-25-2006, 03:54 AM
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so you're saying everyone who replaces their pads without changing the rotors is doing themself a disservice?
I guess we will be turning into BMW's then! darn...
at least we don't get black wheels due to brake dust after the first stop sign after washing the car
I guess we will be turning into BMW's then! darn...
at least we don't get black wheels due to brake dust after the first stop sign after washing the car
09-25-2006, 03:58 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by paul34
so you're saying everyone who replaces their pads without changing the rotors is doing themself a disservice?
I guess we will be turning into BMW's then! darn...
at least we don't get black wheels due to brake dust after the first stop sign after washing the car
I guess we will be turning into BMW's then! darn...
at least we don't get black wheels due to brake dust after the first stop sign after washing the car
09-25-2006, 02:09 PM
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https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...r=asc&&start=0
Instructions here.
You don't have to resurface your rotors.
Instructions here.
You don't have to resurface your rotors.
09-25-2006, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by krdshrk
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...r=asc&&start=0
Instructions here.
You don't have to resurface your rotors.
Instructions here.
You don't have to resurface your rotors.
09-25-2006, 08:58 PM
#30
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See this: http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf110322.htm
Many shops resurface rotors every time the pads are replaced whether they really need it or not. Why? Because they want to avoid comebacks. Besides, many customers might think they are not getting their money's worth if the rotors are not resurfaced as part of a brake job.
General Motors has a different opinion. In technical bulletin #00-05-22-002 to its dealers, GM says, "Brake rotors should only be turned when one of the following rotor surface conditions exist: severe scoring with depth in excess of 1.5 mm or 0.060 inch, pulsation from excessive lateral runout of more than .080 mm or .003 inch, thickness variation in excess of 0.025 mm or 0.001 inch, or excessive corrosion on rotor braking surfaces."
GM also says "Rotors are not to be resurfaced in an attempt to correct the following conditions: noise/squeal, cosmetic corrosion, routine pad replacement or discoloration/hard spots."
GM says resurfacing rotors unnecessarily shortens rotor life. They also say resurfacing is "ineffective at correcting brake squeal and/or premature lining wear and should not be used to address these conditions, unless specifically directed to do so in a service bulletin."
General Motors has a different opinion. In technical bulletin #00-05-22-002 to its dealers, GM says, "Brake rotors should only be turned when one of the following rotor surface conditions exist: severe scoring with depth in excess of 1.5 mm or 0.060 inch, pulsation from excessive lateral runout of more than .080 mm or .003 inch, thickness variation in excess of 0.025 mm or 0.001 inch, or excessive corrosion on rotor braking surfaces."
GM also says "Rotors are not to be resurfaced in an attempt to correct the following conditions: noise/squeal, cosmetic corrosion, routine pad replacement or discoloration/hard spots."
GM says resurfacing rotors unnecessarily shortens rotor life. They also say resurfacing is "ineffective at correcting brake squeal and/or premature lining wear and should not be used to address these conditions, unless specifically directed to do so in a service bulletin."
09-25-2006, 09:34 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by krdshrk
See this: http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf110322.htm
Many shops resurface rotors every time the pads are replaced whether they really need it or not. Why? Because they want to avoid comebacks. Besides, many customers might think they are not getting their money's worth if the rotors are not resurfaced as part of a brake job.
General Motors has a different opinion. In technical bulletin #00-05-22-002 to its dealers, GM says, "Brake rotors should only be turned when one of the following rotor surface conditions exist: severe scoring with depth in excess of 1.5 mm or 0.060 inch, pulsation from excessive lateral runout of more than .080 mm or .003 inch, thickness variation in excess of 0.025 mm or 0.001 inch, or excessive corrosion on rotor braking surfaces."
GM also says "Rotors are not to be resurfaced in an attempt to correct the following conditions: noise/squeal, cosmetic corrosion, routine pad replacement or discoloration/hard spots."
GM says resurfacing rotors unnecessarily shortens rotor life. They also say resurfacing is "ineffective at correcting brake squeal and/or premature lining wear and should not be used to address these conditions, unless specifically directed to do so in a service bulletin."
General Motors has a different opinion. In technical bulletin #00-05-22-002 to its dealers, GM says, "Brake rotors should only be turned when one of the following rotor surface conditions exist: severe scoring with depth in excess of 1.5 mm or 0.060 inch, pulsation from excessive lateral runout of more than .080 mm or .003 inch, thickness variation in excess of 0.025 mm or 0.001 inch, or excessive corrosion on rotor braking surfaces."
GM also says "Rotors are not to be resurfaced in an attempt to correct the following conditions: noise/squeal, cosmetic corrosion, routine pad replacement or discoloration/hard spots."
GM says resurfacing rotors unnecessarily shortens rotor life. They also say resurfacing is "ineffective at correcting brake squeal and/or premature lining wear and should not be used to address these conditions, unless specifically directed to do so in a service bulletin."
09-26-2006, 02:27 AM
#32
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Brakes are brakes... they're all made the same, man.
Disc brakes are all made in similar fashion, and of course you should check for warping, etc. but to resurface every time? I'd say no.. that's just a waste.
Disc brakes are all made in similar fashion, and of course you should check for warping, etc. but to resurface every time? I'd say no.. that's just a waste.
09-26-2006, 04:00 AM
#33
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Originally Posted by krdshrk
Brakes are brakes... they're all made the same, man.
Disc brakes are all made in similar fashion, and of course you should check for warping, etc. but to resurface every time? I'd say no.. that's just a waste.
Disc brakes are all made in similar fashion, and of course you should check for warping, etc. but to resurface every time? I'd say no.. that's just a waste.
11-27-2006, 04:39 AM
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i was wondering when you are look at the caliper all i see is a bolt behind the caliper. so you take that off right. then what.. what do you do from there. are u supposed to pull out that metal strip that looks like it holds the pads in?
11-27-2006, 04:43 AM
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i recal back in the day i make it sound like being 17 years old was that long ago.. but still. i had a hyundi excel. (spelling is wrong) but u get what i am saying. its been so long since i have changed breaks and rotors. maybe i can take pictures of it then send it to you and you can circle what i am supposed to do on ms paint or something.
11-27-2006, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by vaccaro
i was wondering when you are look at the caliper all i see is a bolt behind the caliper. so you take that off right. then what.. what do you do from there. are u supposed to pull out that metal strip that looks like it holds the pads in?
Next you are going to have to take a c-clamp and depress that piston so the caliper can fit back ontop of the pads (since you now have a lot more padding ....the piston is pushed too far out and needs to go back in more).
11-27-2006, 01:51 PM
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Don't use a c-clamp, actually - they could do damage to the caliper itself.
Get a Disc Brake Pad Spreader from NAPA and use that instead.
(hopefully this picture will display)
It braces against a brake pad or the inside edge of the caliper and pushes in the caliper piston. That's what I used on my brake install.
Get a Disc Brake Pad Spreader from NAPA and use that instead.
(hopefully this picture will display)
It braces against a brake pad or the inside edge of the caliper and pushes in the caliper piston. That's what I used on my brake install.
