brake pad change - no how-to? why?
11-27-2006, 04:31 PM
#41
Member
SL Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Jersey
Posts: 86
it's amazing what a little searching can get you. this was posted over a year ago:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=86011
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=86011
11-28-2006, 05:25 AM
#42
Senior Member
SL Member
Scinergy
Team ScioNRG
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: North Easton, MA
Posts: 430
Originally Posted by jwaggz82
Originally Posted by vaccaro
i was wondering when you are look at the caliper all i see is a bolt behind the caliper. so you take that off right. then what.. what do you do from there. are u supposed to pull out that metal strip that looks like it holds the pads in?
Next you are going to have to take a c-clamp and depress that piston so the caliper can fit back ontop of the pads (since you now have a lot more padding ....the piston is pushed too far out and needs to go back in more).
11-29-2006, 12:14 PM
#45
Senior Member
SL Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Earth
Posts: 6,259
Originally Posted by vaccaro
ok just checking.
The main factor is time. It prob will be easier to change one set at a time ..front or back. Make sure you have a few hours and dont drink too many beers cause you might over torque something (hehe). Other then that ...you should be good. I bled my line just so it was easier to push the caliper piston in. I bought a self bleeding thing from the autobody store for like $4-7.
11-29-2006, 12:18 PM
#46
Senior Member
SL Member
Scinergy
Team ScioNRG
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: North Easton, MA
Posts: 430
Originally Posted by jwaggz82
Originally Posted by vaccaro
ok just checking.
The main factor is time. It prob will be easier to change one set at a time ..front or back. Make sure you have a few hours and dont drink too many beers cause you might over torque something (hehe). Other then that ...you should be good. I bled my line just so it was easier to push the caliper piston in. I bought a self bleeding thing from the autobody store for like $4-7.
11-29-2006, 05:52 PM
#47
Senior Member
SL Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Earth
Posts: 6,259
^ on the back of the caliper there is a rubber nipple thing over a small bleeder screw. Take the self bleeding kit from the store....hook the hose up to it .... then slowly open the screw. Put a bit of pressure on the piston - the fluid should drain easily into the bleeding bottle thing. If it doesnt drain when you put pressure on the piston open up the bleeding valve a bit more. Bleeding requires very little strain. If the valve is open up enough you should see it drain into the bleeding bottle easily. Since I used the bleeding kit it was very easy to compress the piston w/ the clamp I had because I was not pushing the fluid back into the line.
11-29-2006, 10:32 PM
#48
Senior Member
Scikotics
SL Member
Team ScioNRG
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Brunswick, NJ
Posts: 3,712
Originally Posted by jwaggz82
Bleeding requires very little strain.
I had to use 2 feet to get my brake pedal down. Ask Matt & Gary - they helped me with it. You should feel my brakes now!
12-03-2006, 06:04 AM
#60
Senior Member
SL Member
Team ScioNRG
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Norwalk, CT
Posts: 3,201