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brake pad change - no how-to? why?

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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 05:22 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Spect2K3
Good to hear, yet do they tend to be so big and bulky that they cannot be used unless the bolt is in the most utterly convenient spot?

This is the one i'm looking at:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

According to the specs, it should easily be able to remove caliper bolts...any thoughts on that device?
no no, not those, im talking about the cordless ones like this one, this is the one i use everyday at work:

http://www.tylertool.com/ma6993imwrki.html
Old Dec 5, 2006 | 05:57 PM
  #82  
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Ah, that one is nice in that its cordless, but has much less power and is only 3/8" drive, all for a higher price.

Where do you work that you'd need a cordless? I looked at the cordless, but to find one that matched up to the craftsman (which is warrantied for life) would cost an arm and a leg. These things are so heavy to begin with, that to buy a cordless is basically useless b/c I would never carry it around, but thats just my opinion. I like the idea though of electric impact wrenched, eliminates the whole air compressor problem (in that nobody has one) lol
Old Dec 5, 2006 | 11:33 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Spect2K3
Ah, that one is nice in that its cordless, but has much less power and is only 3/8" drive, all for a higher price.

Where do you work that you'd need a cordless? I looked at the cordless, but to find one that matched up to the craftsman (which is warrantied for life) would cost an arm and a leg. These things are so heavy to begin with, that to buy a cordless is basically useless b/c I would never carry it around, but thats just my opinion. I like the idea though of electric impact wrenched, eliminates the whole air compressor problem (in that nobody has one) lol
i work at a lexus dealership. trust me walk into any dealership and look at the techs, they all will be using an eletric impact wrench like the one i posted. Its amazing how much time it saves me, i use it on everything. I can take the whole interior apart with that thing easily. Using ratchets isnt quite the fastest way of doing things when you work for a dealership, where you dont get payed by the hour.
Old Dec 6, 2006 | 12:39 AM
  #84  
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true, it most definitely saves time. Is it small enough though to get into tighter spaces such as reaching caliper bolts for doing brakes, or for installing a sway bar? That's my biggest concern - i see the thing weighs a substantial amount comparably.
Old Dec 6, 2006 | 05:48 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by Spect2K3
true, it most definitely saves time. Is it small enough though to get into tighter spaces such as reaching caliper bolts for doing brakes, or for installing a sway bar? That's my biggest concern - i see the thing weighs a substantial amount comparably.
yeah its small enough to do mostly everything, its more so the angle you can get with it.
Old Mar 8, 2007 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jwaggz82
^ on the back of the caliper there is a rubber nipple thing over a small bleeder screw. Take the self bleeding kit from the store....hook the hose up to it .... then slowly open the screw. Put a bit of pressure on the piston - the fluid should drain easily into the bleeding bottle thing. If it doesnt drain when you put pressure on the piston open up the bleeding valve a bit more. Bleeding requires very little strain. If the valve is open up enough you should see it drain into the bleeding bottle easily. Since I used the bleeding kit it was very easy to compress the piston w/ the clamp I had because I was not pushing the fluid back into the line.
Hey I did my pads and it feels pretty soft now, like you have to push down on the pedal pretty hard. I may have done something incorrectly, because I had to remove fluid from the reservoir and it's still filled above the max fill point, but I assumed it'd settle down. well it hasn't yet settled down, should I bleed the brakes? I still need to do the rotors, I was going to do them last night but they were rusted to hell and I don't have a rubber mallet (I was scared to whack them with a hammer). anyway, questions:

Should I bleed the brakes and if so how?
could the dust shield be making that scraping metallic noise in the rear?
should I remove more brake fluid from the reservoir?

thanks!!!
Old Mar 8, 2007 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by dragonplayboy
Originally Posted by jwaggz82
^ on the back of the caliper there is a rubber nipple thing over a small bleeder screw. Take the self bleeding kit from the store....hook the hose up to it .... then slowly open the screw. Put a bit of pressure on the piston - the fluid should drain easily into the bleeding bottle thing. If it doesnt drain when you put pressure on the piston open up the bleeding valve a bit more. Bleeding requires very little strain. If the valve is open up enough you should see it drain into the bleeding bottle easily. Since I used the bleeding kit it was very easy to compress the piston w/ the clamp I had because I was not pushing the fluid back into the line.
Hey I did my pads and it feels pretty soft now, like you have to push down on the pedal pretty hard. I may have done something incorrectly, because I had to remove fluid from the reservoir and it's still filled above the max fill point, but I assumed it'd settle down. well it hasn't yet settled down, should I bleed the brakes? I still need to do the rotors, I was going to do them last night but they were rusted to hell and I don't have a rubber mallet (I was scared to whack them with a hammer). anyway, questions:

Should I bleed the brakes and if so how?
could the dust shield be making that scraping metallic noise in the rear?
should I remove more brake fluid from the reservoir?

thanks!!!
You bleed the brakes by going to your part store and ask for a brake bleeding kit. You want the one that cost under $6 ...dont get a $30 one. Then attach the tube to the holder ... take the nipple off your bleeding valve on your rotor and attach the other end of the tube to it. Slowly turn the bolt so the fluid comes out. You need to get some of the air out of the line.

The dust shield 100% can be rubbing. Look at it and take a screwdrive and bend it a tad.

Don't ever remove fluid from the reservoir (under the hood).
Old Mar 8, 2007 | 06:53 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by jwaggz82

You bleed the brakes by going to your part store and ask for a brake bleeding kit. You want the one that cost under $6 ...dont get a $30 one. Then attach the tube to the holder ... take the nipple off your bleeding valve on your rotor and attach the other end of the tube to it. Slowly turn the bolt so the fluid comes out. You need to get some of the air out of the line.

The dust shield 100% can be rubbing. Look at it and take a screwdrive and bend it a tad.

Don't ever remove fluid from the reservoir (under the hood).
Oh hell. a little late for that I guess. Should I bleed them all and then add some more fluid? when I let fluid flow out of the nipple into the bleeder kit thing, will it flow back in or do I dump it in the reservoir? or just get new fluid?

thanks again man!!
Old Mar 9, 2007 | 03:08 AM
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Yup - bleed it just like you said - i put my fluid back into the reservoir but people say not to do that.....but hell.... its a new car. Just make sure your fluid is high and its not low.
Old Mar 9, 2007 | 01:13 PM
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(sorry to keep asking questions) how much will I need to bleed out to get any air out? will the pedal then feel less firm and have more responsive brakeing? thanks guys!!!
Old Mar 9, 2007 | 02:46 PM
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Well you dont bleed them much. I would bleed about 1/2-1container out of each caliper and pour it back into the holding tank. Then ...pump your brake before you start driving and see if its stiffer. Dont' over tighen the bleeding bolt. All you need is to tighen it w/ almost no strength and do like 1/4 turn after that. Some people go crazy and tighten it so hard that it snaps ..... you cant put your back into it when your talking about a very small piece.
Old Mar 9, 2007 | 04:37 PM
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i changed mine with no torque wrench.

Worst idea ever. I had to hit the socket wrench with my c-clamp a hundred times to get it loose. At least the next time i change my brakes it will be alot easier
Old Mar 9, 2007 | 07:35 PM
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Wooooahhh - Don't anybody use a torque wrench .... I never said that. You only torque the caliper bolts to 25lbs. ..not the bleeding valve.
Old Mar 9, 2007 | 09:37 PM
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so I torque the bleeder valve to 225 lbs then?





(kidding)
Old Mar 9, 2007 | 09:38 PM
  #95  
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cool. hey does anyone know where to get jackstands that will fit under the scion? the smallest I can find is 10.5"
Old Mar 9, 2007 | 09:48 PM
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normal jack stands will work fine. Just get a floor jack and they can get under there nice and easy.

I got mine at sears
Old Mar 9, 2007 | 10:02 PM
  #97  
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^ i dunno because my floor jack barely fits and im on the TRD springs ....which isnt that low.
Old Mar 9, 2007 | 10:26 PM
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i'm on trds also. Jack the car up higher. lol. If you are all the way up, you have a poor floor jack. Invest in a good one, its worth the extra $15-20
Old Mar 9, 2007 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Spect2K3
i'm on trds also. Jack the car up higher. lol. If you are all the way up, you have a poor floor jack. Invest in a good one, its worth the extra $15-20
no - im sayin that with my lip kit it barely fits under the car (before you start jackin it up)
Old Mar 9, 2007 | 11:06 PM
  #100  
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ahhh, that I understand. You throw a few boards underneath before you begin?



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