brake pad change - no how-to? why?
Originally Posted by Spect2K3
Good to hear, yet do they tend to be so big and bulky that they cannot be used unless the bolt is in the most utterly convenient spot?
This is the one i'm looking at:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
According to the specs, it should easily be able to remove caliper bolts...any thoughts on that device?
This is the one i'm looking at:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
According to the specs, it should easily be able to remove caliper bolts...any thoughts on that device?
http://www.tylertool.com/ma6993imwrki.html
Ah, that one is nice in that its cordless, but has much less power and is only 3/8" drive, all for a higher price.
Where do you work that you'd need a cordless? I looked at the cordless, but to find one that matched up to the craftsman (which is warrantied for life) would cost an arm and a leg. These things are so heavy to begin with, that to buy a cordless is basically useless b/c I would never carry it around, but thats just my opinion. I like the idea though of electric impact wrenched, eliminates the whole air compressor problem (in that nobody has one) lol
Where do you work that you'd need a cordless? I looked at the cordless, but to find one that matched up to the craftsman (which is warrantied for life) would cost an arm and a leg. These things are so heavy to begin with, that to buy a cordless is basically useless b/c I would never carry it around, but thats just my opinion. I like the idea though of electric impact wrenched, eliminates the whole air compressor problem (in that nobody has one) lol
Originally Posted by Spect2K3
Ah, that one is nice in that its cordless, but has much less power and is only 3/8" drive, all for a higher price.
Where do you work that you'd need a cordless? I looked at the cordless, but to find one that matched up to the craftsman (which is warrantied for life) would cost an arm and a leg. These things are so heavy to begin with, that to buy a cordless is basically useless b/c I would never carry it around, but thats just my opinion. I like the idea though of electric impact wrenched, eliminates the whole air compressor problem (in that nobody has one) lol
Where do you work that you'd need a cordless? I looked at the cordless, but to find one that matched up to the craftsman (which is warrantied for life) would cost an arm and a leg. These things are so heavy to begin with, that to buy a cordless is basically useless b/c I would never carry it around, but thats just my opinion. I like the idea though of electric impact wrenched, eliminates the whole air compressor problem (in that nobody has one) lol
true, it most definitely saves time. Is it small enough though to get into tighter spaces such as reaching caliper bolts for doing brakes, or for installing a sway bar? That's my biggest concern - i see the thing weighs a substantial amount comparably.
Originally Posted by Spect2K3
true, it most definitely saves time. Is it small enough though to get into tighter spaces such as reaching caliper bolts for doing brakes, or for installing a sway bar? That's my biggest concern - i see the thing weighs a substantial amount comparably.
Originally Posted by jwaggz82
^ on the back of the caliper there is a rubber nipple thing over a small bleeder screw. Take the self bleeding kit from the store....hook the hose up to it .... then slowly open the screw. Put a bit of pressure on the piston - the fluid should drain easily into the bleeding bottle thing. If it doesnt drain when you put pressure on the piston open up the bleeding valve a bit more. Bleeding requires very little strain. If the valve is open up enough you should see it drain into the bleeding bottle easily. Since I used the bleeding kit it was very easy to compress the piston w/ the clamp I had because I was not pushing the fluid back into the line.
Should I bleed the brakes and if so how?
could the dust shield be making that scraping metallic noise in the rear?
should I remove more brake fluid from the reservoir?
thanks!!!
Originally Posted by dragonplayboy
Originally Posted by jwaggz82
^ on the back of the caliper there is a rubber nipple thing over a small bleeder screw. Take the self bleeding kit from the store....hook the hose up to it .... then slowly open the screw. Put a bit of pressure on the piston - the fluid should drain easily into the bleeding bottle thing. If it doesnt drain when you put pressure on the piston open up the bleeding valve a bit more. Bleeding requires very little strain. If the valve is open up enough you should see it drain into the bleeding bottle easily. Since I used the bleeding kit it was very easy to compress the piston w/ the clamp I had because I was not pushing the fluid back into the line.
Should I bleed the brakes and if so how?
could the dust shield be making that scraping metallic noise in the rear?
should I remove more brake fluid from the reservoir?
thanks!!!
The dust shield 100% can be rubbing. Look at it and take a screwdrive and bend it a tad.
Don't ever remove fluid from the reservoir (under the hood).
Originally Posted by jwaggz82
You bleed the brakes by going to your part store and ask for a brake bleeding kit. You want the one that cost under $6 ...dont get a $30 one. Then attach the tube to the holder ... take the nipple off your bleeding valve on your rotor and attach the other end of the tube to it. Slowly turn the bolt so the fluid comes out. You need to get some of the air out of the line.
The dust shield 100% can be rubbing. Look at it and take a screwdrive and bend it a tad.
Don't ever remove fluid from the reservoir (under the hood).
thanks again man!!
Yup - bleed it just like you said - i put my fluid back into the reservoir but people say not to do that.....but hell.... its a new car. Just make sure your fluid is high and its not low.
Well you dont bleed them much. I would bleed about 1/2-1container out of each caliper and pour it back into the holding tank. Then ...pump your brake before you start driving and see if its stiffer. Dont' over tighen the bleeding bolt. All you need is to tighen it w/ almost no strength and do like 1/4 turn after that. Some people go crazy and tighten it so hard that it snaps ..... you cant put your back into it when your talking about a very small piece.
i changed mine with no torque wrench.
Worst idea ever. I had to hit the socket wrench with my c-clamp a hundred times to get it loose. At least the next time i change my brakes it will be alot easier
Worst idea ever. I had to hit the socket wrench with my c-clamp a hundred times to get it loose. At least the next time i change my brakes it will be alot easier
Originally Posted by Spect2K3
i'm on trds also. Jack the car up higher. lol. If you are all the way up, you have a poor floor jack. Invest in a good one, its worth the extra $15-20






