Spect2K3

Hey guys,
I am about to put new FRONT brakes on my tC at 24K even though they are not worn out yet. I am going with the Axxis XBG pads (midway between the least powerful deluxe and the most powerful ultimates). First off, what do you all think of those pads?

Second, is it okay if I leave the rotor on there or do I need to take it off to get resurfaced after 24K? Whenever I do replace them, i'm going to do brembo plain rotors, but I figure I can get through 2 sets of pads (about 55K) without changing the rotors - am I right here?

Thanks

Spect2K3

Any opinion would be appreciated...I'd like to order my stuff so it goes out in the mail tomorrow!

dfwcc

I'd recommend EBC Greens / sport rotors. Long lasting, low dusting, good quality, affordable price for the long term.

Spect2K3

Yea, i've heard those are good, but i'm asking about right now with 24K, I know nobody is here to look at the rotors, but is it likely that i'd need to replace them when putting on my new pads, or should they still be good?

dfwcc

Anytime you replace the pads, you should also resurface the rotor to ensure that the friction surface will be even. This helps the brake pads and rotors create the proper amount of friction to stop the vehicle.

Sometimes rotors can get glazed, hot spotted, cracked, or even warped.

Spect2K3

Any idea as to how much it costs to resurface the rotors? $ per rotor...

dfwcc

O'reillys or any major parts store with a machine shop should be able to resurface the rotors starting from $10/rotor to $30/rotor. Also check with a local repair shop to see if they'd give you a break. Usually if you find the right people, they'll do it around the $10/rotor price range.

Spect2K3

yea, thats about what I thought, I can get brembo plain rotors for $50 front and $30 rear...its almost not even worth it...

I was hoping to just replace the pads since the rotors are still nice and smooth, but i guess thats not possible and i'd have to do the rotors as well

Spect2K3

Has anybody changed their pads without swapping out the rotors or resurfacing them?

krdshrk

Resurfacing isn't needed... not with only 24k miles.

Spect2K3

Thats what I thought, even though its recommended, probably not needed...I mean, looking at the rotors, they are not perfectly smooth, but neither are my rears which still look brand new (we all know how front brake biased the tC is). Running my hand over the rotor up and down, I can feel very mild ridges, but VERY minor. I guess i'll do one more set of pads on these rotors and then change em.

Spect2K3

bump, I haven't decided yet if I should replace the rotors at 25K...they are not as smooth as the rear, have some imperfections, but i've had 2 opinions, one yes, one no.

Any advice?

Dakine

Dont replace just resurface. i just had mine resurfaced due to uneven braking.

Otocan

okay, talk about some mis-information, I hope Doc.I doesn't see this thread, he'd be mighty disappointed...

there is no way on the face of this earth, I don't care if you used carbide-alloy brake pads, that you need new rotors at 25kmi on a daily-driver. The only time rotors need replacing is when the rotor thickness is below 23mm measured with a micrometer, the stock thickness is 25mm.

"resurfacing" a rotor is usually NEVER needed, I repeat, USUALLY NEVER NEEDED. "Uneven rotor surface" is caused by brake pad deposits being put on the rotors, and warping/cracking a rotor is nary impossible under street circumstances especially using the stock pads. If you believe you could have pad deposits on the rotor, you could go to a local store and buy some garnet paper and sand it down yourself, but it's usually NOT needed. On that note, when you put new pads on, you should bed-in the pads to the rotors, which essentially does the same exact thing as "resurfacing" the rotors, but is much more accurate, precise, and less chance to screw up the rotor and/or pad from the damage to the rotor from resurfacing, not to mention having them "turned" (which is not a literal meaning) or "machined" or "resurfaced" or whatever they want to call it, also reduces the rotor's heat capacity.

If you're going for Axxis pads, go for the Axxis Ultimates, hands down. I had them on my car and they handled daily driving way better than the stock pads, lower dust, better initial bite, and less brake fade when I took it racing at autocross, and they handled autocrossing just fine. They are street-only pads with higher initial bite, less rotor wear, less noise and as much if not less dust.

Once you put the higher-quality and higher-grade pads on the car, they WILL wear off some of the pad deposits (if there are any) on the rotor once you bed them in, and if you are seeing/feeling grooves that run the circumference of the rotor, that's normal.

Stoptech sells a Stage I kit ($280) that comes with fluid, stainless steel lines, and brake pads, and if you REALLY want rotors, they have a stage II kit ($570) with slotted or drilled rotors (recommend slotted) as well.

Buy Stoptech Stage I

Buy Stoptech Stage II
LEARN ABOUT BRAKES - espeically their section on bedding-in the system since you want to upgrade

Spect2K3

Awesome post...Thanks Otocan!!