The 10mm sounds right - my cars drains have been 10mm allen heads or big 24mm 6-points. Since you likely do not have a trans temp gauge, just cruise around until the coolant gauge is showing the normal driving temp (provided it all feels like it's working well mechanically). Theres a not a set amount of time or gear changes that need to be made, just drive normally until it's warmed up.

There's really not much to it - drain it, refill it, drive around with it, check it again @ proper temp, then don't touch it for another 30k miles and then repeat.

 

Ok, thanks. I'll do that than.

 

It is indeed a 10mm so I bought a 10mm socket so I can torque it right. While i was down there I noticed the oil pan looks like it might be in the way of the same bolt for the control arm on the passenger side. Please tell me I am wrong. I just changed the oil a couple weeks ago not realizing that. I've done control arms in the past on other cars, and never had stuff in the way so this is new to me.

 

Oil pan was in the way, but jacked up the oil pan to clear. Found out the company i bought the control arms from messed up, and sent me 2 left arms. The boxes, and bags the parts were in were labeled correctly. Than took about 3 hours to get the new one on the passenger side. Forgot when I did work on this car before I noticed it had welded spots on the frame. Must've been in an accident. I couldn't get the darn bolt to line up towards the rear. I shoved a socket extension through, but when it was time for the bolt it didn't want to go. I eventually got it aligned very close, and used the jack to shove the bolt up through. It worked.

I never had an issue like that before, but assuming it has to be from the accident or whatever happened to the car.