Anyone interested in an NST Crank Pulley?
this thread should just be locked. everyone has there own opinions about this. whether good or bad. my opinion (which has been proved) nst lightweight pulleys are "the best there is." plain and simple. thats all there is to it. i have the pulley in my car now at 15k miles. and from stock. i can feel the better acceleration/ quicker response/ mpg i cant say because i do 80mph everywhere i go. and when i reach 100k miles on my car. im going to come back on here and prove to everyone that the nst lightweight pulleys. is the best pulley out on the market and the best bang for the buck. so with that being said. i want the thread looked. and mike. if you want me to open a group buy. just give the all the info and ill get it done.
hit up autox. do the first run. then get nst pit crew to change that pulley in 5 min. and run the 2nd. lol!
The information being presented is very helpful in making a decision, I'm still getting the crank pulley but I do appreciate all sides explaining themselves. If spirited debate can't be tolerated, that really concerns me. Let's all just grab some beer, some chips, and keep the discussion going. :-)
Its kind of disrespectful to come to this nst thread to talk bad about the product. Its like going in to the nst shop and talk negative about his product. You are not helping at all. (you know who you are). Just open another thread for your opinions about pulleys. Pleasee. Most of us are here just waiting for a group buy and we dont wanna hear you individuals giving us negative feedback about pulleys. Its common sense that if you wanna buy something you already did some research about it. Its up to us to buy. So please stop this bs.
I always have been a proponent of more information…that way I can make an informed decision. Some times I don’t like what I hear…but that’s what it takes to make an informed decision…its not easy and sometimes very painful.
A harmonic damper (that is the correct name and thanks for correcting me, but I was using the common “street” term of balancer earlier) is used to smooth out the torsional vibrations (and hence the term balancer) of the crack-shaft. It makes for a smoother running engine…depending on how well that damper was designed, will get the quality of smoothness. By reducing the rotating mass, the engine acceleration will increase…you will get better acceleration and therefore improve your lap times.
The only risk you take, as far as engine failure, is breakage of the crank-shaft. I have seen cranckshaft failures and they are ugly…but that usually only happens on long crankshafted engines…straight 6, V12s, etc. This can also happen on large bore engines…i.e. tons of torque. Think of it like a rubber band on a model airplane…the harmonic damper dampens the twisting. This was especially prevalent in the 50s and 60s when the material properties were not that well understood. So that Mike makes the claim that there have not been any failures is very believable. No engine manufacturer builds an engine with a cast crankshaft these days. Steel forgings and NDT inspections yield very good cranckshaft these days.
Your decision is like the decision some of you guys made for a stiffer suspension. The engineers at the auto makers decided to give everybody a soft ride…most of the people (car buyers) like this. If you want better acceleration and are willing to up with the added vibration, go for it! That is a choice that only you can make for yourself.
Now here is my statement again…a little reduction in mass gained you acceleration. Everything adds up from an engineering point of view…and old concerns taken into account. I’m also convinced that a lot of mass reduction will gain you a lot of acceleration.
I would like an OEM pulley, I’m looking at you jtk2, to take measurements off of to design a super light pulley for supper acceleration.
A harmonic damper (that is the correct name and thanks for correcting me, but I was using the common “street” term of balancer earlier) is used to smooth out the torsional vibrations (and hence the term balancer) of the crack-shaft. It makes for a smoother running engine…depending on how well that damper was designed, will get the quality of smoothness. By reducing the rotating mass, the engine acceleration will increase…you will get better acceleration and therefore improve your lap times.
The only risk you take, as far as engine failure, is breakage of the crank-shaft. I have seen cranckshaft failures and they are ugly…but that usually only happens on long crankshafted engines…straight 6, V12s, etc. This can also happen on large bore engines…i.e. tons of torque. Think of it like a rubber band on a model airplane…the harmonic damper dampens the twisting. This was especially prevalent in the 50s and 60s when the material properties were not that well understood. So that Mike makes the claim that there have not been any failures is very believable. No engine manufacturer builds an engine with a cast crankshaft these days. Steel forgings and NDT inspections yield very good cranckshaft these days.
Your decision is like the decision some of you guys made for a stiffer suspension. The engineers at the auto makers decided to give everybody a soft ride…most of the people (car buyers) like this. If you want better acceleration and are willing to up with the added vibration, go for it! That is a choice that only you can make for yourself.
Now here is my statement again…a little reduction in mass gained you acceleration. Everything adds up from an engineering point of view…and old concerns taken into account. I’m also convinced that a lot of mass reduction will gain you a lot of acceleration.
I would like an OEM pulley, I’m looking at you jtk2, to take measurements off of to design a super light pulley for supper acceleration.
Sorry bud but I'm keeping all my oem parts in storage. Maybe with the 20 or so guys that want the nst pulley. Someone will give you there's. But that probably won't be till end of this year before you can get one to start taking measurements.
I fail to believe that it is for NVH. It would have gotten axed and pulley owners aren't reporting any additional NVH. My theory is that toyota did fatigue analysis* on the crank(or timing chain, oil pump chain, anything else subjected to the shock loads) and found that the life of that component was unacceptable(probably due to something resonating). The solution, add the dampener to prevent resonance. This same analysis yielded an acceptable life on smaller engines(1.5 and 1.8) so they didn't put the damper on those engines.
*bend a piece of metal(say a wire) many times and it will break. Every time one of your cylinders fires it bends your crank a (very tiny)bit. Do this enough and it will break.
*bend a piece of metal(say a wire) many times and it will break. Every time one of your cylinders fires it bends your crank a (very tiny)bit. Do this enough and it will break.

---- UPDATE ---- UPDATE ---- UPDATE ----
GROUP BUY THREAD: https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=207457
MIKE @ NST
Yes for most metals…no for steel, cobalt and titanium. These three metals are the only three that don’t have a fatigue limit. If the stresses are kept under a certain amount, they will never fatigue out (break). Since crankshafts are made of steel…so NO, not in this case.
I didn't come here to bash, i don't care what you do to your car. Since most of you are new here I want you to be aware of the controversy surrounding this mod(if it was in the tc1 forum i wouldn't care; its been covered many times). Unlike an intake, exhaust, suspension(as long as you don't just dump it) this mod has the potential to destroy your engine(or so say many people with an engineering background).
Thank u! Finally i have a timeline. Ther damn site says early 2011...? Wouldnt u change it and not look like scrubs? But ya im definitely excited to buy this hoping itll help with some low end gidy up! And it could b pink for all i care color doesnt mean sqwuat to me wen its kind of a hidden part. Thnx for the reply
Yea I'm assuming that's what there plan was. But got real busy with events and other cars there doing. I woulda changed it. But owell what can ya do? It doesn't help really the much in low end. Best results are mostly mid/high end. So start at a 40mph roll.





